RogerB

Thanks Stu, I'm not sure what I was playing at with the multimeter, however it works fine with the light using all existing wiring. Roger.

Thanks Stu, I'm not sure what I was playing at with the multimeter, however it works fine with the light using all existing wiring. Roger.

I'm considering migrating to the South of France for the winter taking the 7 behind the sensible car. The dog won't fit in the 7. Your thoughts on towing please - A frame or towing dolly, Ferry or tunnel, laws for towing in Fance ? Roger.

Thanks Guys most of what you say seems to make sense. And is basically what I have already tried with my multimeter. I measured the voltage between green and brown/white at the dash with the black and brown/white wires connected to the terminals on the pressure switch. So far so good however the voltage didn't drop to zero when I started the engine. I thought the pressure switch must be faulty, The switch is Ok though as I checked for by testing the resistance across it with engine stopped and then running. I notice at the switch the wires that where connected to the sender had a single black (-ve Earth) however two brown/white (+ve) from gauge. As for the location of the pressure switch it does make sense to have it closer to the engine. And that is how the kit comes from think automotive with a short length of braided hose connected to the T piece where the switch is fitted, then plastic hose up to the mech gauge at the dash. Guests have just arrived which is holding me up getting back for another go ! Roger.

Further to my last post I have purchased the mechanical oil pressure gauge and warning switch/light kit from Think Automotive. Having fitted the gauge I am trying to figure out how to connect up the warning light using the existing wiring from the removed electronic gauge. I found a wiring diagram online for the k series however it doesn't seem to make sense with respect to the pressure gauge. I would like to avoid running another wire between light and switch if possible. Roger.

Hi Jack, I'm interested and have sent a message. Roger.

Well guys after much research through these pages and costing the alternatives of either a mechanical gauge or remote mounted sender it would seem the remote mounted sender would be about half the cost of the mechanical gauge. Has anyone taken the remote mounted sender route and does it remain reliable. Besides costing less it also allows me retain the Caterham logo to match the others. Roger.

Thanks guys. 7' sounds more like it around the right side of the engine away from the exhaust. Roger

I am looking to replace the electronic oil pressure gauge on my SV with 1600 K series engine. Can anyone advise what length of braided hose from the oil filter connection to the gauge is required and what the preferred route would be. Roger.

I have eventually got around to having my MBE remapped, at JDM Dyno near Carlisle. (Thanks David for your recommendation) . Johnathon managed to obtain the code to unlock my ECU and wired in a serial port connector to connect to his laptop. The car is now running so much better. I can highly recommend him and at a really good price in comparison to some of the other quotes I had.

I have just fitted one to my boat which although I,m pleased with doesn't put out as much current as I had anticipated for the wattage of the panel. You definitely require a voltage regulator to prevent overcharging. I found my supplier was helpful with advice on what was required. Your charging requirement will obviously be much less than mine and charging through the lighter socket is a convenient solution providing that remains live when the ignition is switched off.

Yep the whine is noisy at 50. Thanks guys.

Thought I would check the oil level on my Seirra diff at 3000 miles by removing the filler plug. Level ok as some oil ran out, however I was surprised by the colour - a pale grey. Is this normal and is it caused by the LSD additive. I have had the car for a year and although I think the diff is noisy I'm assured this is common with these diffs.

I am looking for a K series cam cover as the plug cover is missing on my engine together with one of the threaded bosses for securing it.

my car came with Yokohama AO 48 track day tyres and no spare wheel carrier. Also the rears are a wider section to the front. I had intended to fit a carrier and spare for touring however the spare would not be the correct size for both ends. After arriving home one day with a front puncture which I hadnt noticed, as I had been driving steadily, I became aware that these track day tyres have very strong side walls and this flat only looked to have a low pressure rather than virtually zero. I have therefore decided to treat these tyres as run flats which will get me home. I do also carry an inflator and repair fluid. Roger.

Thanks for your various responses they have given me alternatives to investigate without taking her down to London. Roger.

My car has an MBE ECU which needs re-mapping and I was wondering why yours is surplus to requirements. Sorry Im not looking for one, only picking your brain.

Can anyone recommend a tuning specialist in the Glasgow area for re-mapping a an MBE ECU on my K Series ?

Absolutely, smiles per mile and I had that for ten years with a Griffith 500 with twice the horsepower twice the weight and an antiquated engine with half the valves per cylinder. That's not to say I,m not achieving an improved spm, however I had hoped to achieve it with a better mpg.

Thanks guys I got the impression they new what they where talking about. and did you see an improved mpg as 22 is disappointing after achieving 40 mpg when we hired a 140 hp 1.8 k series for a weekend.

Ian, Unfortunately Steve Parker who built the engine and the previous owner have passed away and no build spec came with the car. However ive had it stripped down to replace the head gasket and up-rated bottom ladder. The garage said it had bigger valves in the head and some sort of race cam. It also runs on Caterham throttle bodies with a dry sump. The MBE ECU says 200BHP, however I dont think it is so much. Oh and it only had 560 miles on the clock when I bought it in March, the garage also confirmed the engine looked low miles since it was rebuilt. That is the extent of my knowledge on it at present. Roger.

i have just spoken to Track n Road today regarding road going running issues with my 1.6 k series racing engine. i am pleased to say they fully understood the issues and sounded confident that they could re- map the MBE ECU to make the car more tractable for road use. The issues are that the engine has a flat spot between 3000 to 4500 RPM whereby the engine dies under full throttle. This necessitates being in a low gear to get the revs up for overtaking. Also fuel consumption under spirited driving is circa 22 mpg. Their explanation was that engines set up for track use are only properly mapped for full power at the higher rev range Before I trail the car down from Scotland to Essex I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has had a re-map of a race tuned engine for road use by them and what form of improvements experienced. Also if there is anyone nearer to Scotland that can perform this task ?

I have read through the instructions on fitting the additional relay as per John Milners post - great stuff. However I wondered if anyone had a simple wiring diagram for this mod.

in response to Neils initial question I would like to suggest a water mist extinguisher. This is a relatively new type of very efficient water extinguisher which can be used on most classes of fire including electrical and liquid without making the same mess as dry powder.Im not sure if it is promoted for cars however it was highly recommend on a recent refresher fire fighting course I attended. please see link to one model I turned up with a quick internet search. http://www.safelincs.co.uk/e-series-water-mist-fire-extinguishers/

I am looking for a long nose shower cap for an SV model with door mounted wing mirrors.