Doc007
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Everything posted by Doc007
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The brake assembly comes as a pre-assembled unit so there are no details of the torque values for the bolts I'm using.
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Thanks Wrightpayne! That's just the trick I was looking for. Now, does anyone have the torque values or know where I can get them?
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I ran a tap down the holes. I honestly think I would have reached the torque figure before the bolt was home if I didn't. Does anyone have guide for how to replace the discs? In particular I need to know; 1. Caliper mounting bolts(x2) torque. 2. Disc to carrier bolts(x4) torque and how to hold the disc when tightening. Had to use a vice on the old disc without soft jaws as they didn't hold it tightly enough. Wouldn't want to do that on a new disc! 3. Torque for hub nut and technique. I understand it's very low (7nm???) +turning until next hole for castellated nut is aligned. Thanks in advance.
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Oh, and I think that part of the reason it was tight was the threadlock. How, do you clear out the threadlock from the thread before putting another bolt in.
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Does anyone have a source/specifications/link to an alternative source for the caliper bolts for a 2015 AP 2-pot caliper? I've just removed mine and it was really-bloody-tight for the whole of its extraction. The Torx head was chewed up during its removal and I'd prefer a cap head or similar to replace it. The main issue is that the hole in the caliper is very tight with little room for a "shoulder". I think this is the Caterham OE version. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/calipers-pads-discs/5294-caliper-mounting-bolt-to-ap-upright.html?search_query=Caliper+bolts&results=179
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Managed it! What a ballache. Technique seemed to be to remove all the bolts, freeing up all 4 primaries and the wiggle and jiggle until you deliver No.1 vertically past the cam cover between No.3&4.
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I'm trying to take the whole system off my S3 Duratec with the 420 style dry sump triangular oil reservoir. The (old) assembly guide suggests during assembly the order is 4 (outside-in) 3 (outside-in) 2 (inside-out) 1 (inside-out), with the No.1 cylinder being at the front. But I can't for the life of me wangle the first one out. I know it will be easier from there on and what's most frustrating is that I did it a few years ago but cannot remember how! Don't suppose there are any simple videos/how to guides/tips?
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Before or after hibernation? Discuss...
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If you do go down the route of the Think Automotive gauges then I would highly recommend switching OE gauge illumination bulb for a brighter LED version. This means you will stand a chance of seeing it in the dark (which I could not with the OE bulb) and its white light matches my existing gauges. Though your older car may have incandescent bulbs that give a yellower light.
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I went to http://www.surreyrollingroad.co.uk/ this morning for the power run. There were about 5 or 6 Golf GTIs/Audis/M4s there for the £45 What'll She Do, Mister Saturday session. If you want to just reassure yourself that your car is making the numbers you expect it to then it's a fantastic service. I don't know about their mapping abilities but I would rather trust the knowledge and experience of The Two Steves at http://www.tracknroad.com/. And FWIW my car made 264bhp. Pretty much exactly what I was expecting.
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Got a power run booked for this coming Saturday at Surrey Rolling Road in Hampshire(!!!) for £45. http://www.surreyrollingroad.co.uk/
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I use it for trackdays mainly. Also use it for storage and when I need to drain tanks. I have a metal one at the moment but a plastic one makes sense as you sidestep the issue of corrosion.
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a good Jerry can that will last a good few years without rusting/paint peeling from the inside and have a cap/spout that don't piss fuel everywhere? The one that I currently have is filling the fuel with tiny flecks of fuel/paint that has come from the inside. Far from ideal.
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Thanks chaps. And with regards to filling, do you just pour the same volume you removed into the DS tank. Then run it up to temperature and ensure the level is 5mm below the baffle plate (I presume this measure is irrespective of the DS type)?
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Thanks Knifey. Does that not leave a large quantity of oil that has leaked down into the sump? And in the oil cooler and pipe work?
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I need to change the oil on my Duratec which now has a Cosworth dry sump (see photos), a standard 420 style triangular tank ahead of the engine and an oil cooler that sits in front of the lower part of the radiator. I can't find a blow by blow instructions that seem to fit my set up. Some descriptions suggest there is a mesh filter somewhere. I presume the hex key plug on the right side of the engine is the drain plug? Do I need to drain the dry sump tank? I think there is a plug in the middle at the bottom? Will there be any O-rings/washers that need replacing? How much oil will it take? Thanks in advance.
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Thanks guys. I'll chase these up on Monday.
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Does anyone know of a reputable rolling road within easy reach of Surbiton/Surrey? Just need a quick power run.
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Thanks, Simon. That's very helpful. Does anyone know if there is a difference between the geometry of the trackday roll bar and trackday roll cage?
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Is this a newish S3? And by "trackday roll bar" do you mean the double diagonal roll bar? I have a 2015 S3 with the trackday roll cage (the one with the double-D without the side bars to assist entry and with a double-diagonals at the back) and I can't get either lateral harness bolts out because of the diagonals. Does anyone know whether the double-diagonals are the same size/position as on the trackday roll bar?
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I'm curious as to why there is a significant drop off in the torque after to rpm.
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If I could have the low down torque of the 420R and the power of the R500 that would be great. I've seen power traces of a 2.3l and it looked peachy!
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Probably easiest to follow the well trodden path of 420R/R500 engines with MBE ECUs. That way you will have more available support. I'd be VERY happy for someone to correct me but it seems that the 420R has more torque below 4500rpm and the R500 more above this. That makes it more fun out of T-junctions/roundabouts in 420 R form but more mumbo with the R500. I have a 420R on a plenum that was a LOT of fun and switched the whole engine for a dry-sumped Cosworth built crate engine on TBs. With 266bhp it's got plenty of go! But the 420R certainly had its own charms. Either way is Win;Win. But if you want playful AND power then 2.3l is your friend.
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Where are you based? I've got Easimap/cable in Surbiton, Surrey but am not what you'd call proficient in it's use. Have you tried running it up to temp and seeing if the power switches and goes to the fan?
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What's a pirate's favourite letter? aaaRRRR? No, his greatest love be the C.... I'll get my coat...
