Doc007

It's a Duratec with the OE ECU/alternator.

Is there a "How to investigate parasitic drain" Guide anywhere? My 2016 car loses charge over the course of a couple of weeks. It has a Banner battery which I generally keep on a CTEK but if you take it off it loses charge relatively quickly. I'm contemplating fitting a cut-off switch but if it is a simple fix then that would be preferable. I have an multimeter and am not afraid to use it, BUT would require VERY basic instructions! I called an automotive electrician to take a look at it a while ago and he took one look at it and said he couldn't do it!

That's interesting , David. Thank you. So, assuming a 15% loss that would give you around 277bhp. I don't suppose you have any torque figures? That's what I'd really like to see. What layout is the "BTB" exhaust? Is it a 4-2-1? And if so, did you notice an improvement in the mid-range? Was it very expensive/noisy/able to be fitted with a cat for MOT? Thanks

Does anyone have a copy of the R500 Duratec dyno readout? I'm curious as to what the bottom end looks like.

Is it possible to fit throttle bodies under the bonnet of an S3?

Santa sent me some half-doors for Christmas. I have a trackday cage fitted and the front mounting bolt seems to foul the door at the front lower edge (see photo) holding the door away from the side skin which would allow spray in from the front wheel into the cabin. Is there a way around this? And has anyone got pictures of the position of the press studs? I presume you just use the rear press stud in the second picture? I have some Tenax fasteners for the fronthttps://www.cjmarine.co.uk/product/tenax-button-locking-nut/.

I was told there is a small amount of oil that is poured in to the top of the box via the gear lever hole. Don't know whether this is true...

In the end, I swapped both lap straps and the inboard of the two shoulder straps to the opposite side. To avoid opening the buckle up I removed it from the inboard lap strap (by poking a wire into the tiny hole on the back of the buckle and pulling the "male" part out.) I didn't swap the outboard straps as the bolts were too long and fouled the roll cage diagonals. And frankly life's too short... Then I spent the rest of the day trying to get the damned seats back in...

I spoke to a helpful chap at Luke/Corbeau today. He said it could release the buckle from the permanent strap by pressing in the tiny hole (there are 3 on the backplate, one overlies the permanent strap) and pulling the strap out. This way I could swap all the straps but keep the buckles on the same side as they are not worn. That would mean I wouldn't have to eviscerate the buckle. Might give that a go.

Ouch! £150. I'm going to try a kit that comes with rivets and a tool. I'll see how it goes.

I'm replacing the pins on my armrests as they are not "catching" on the tabs attached to the side skin to keep the door closed. I've got the replacement pins and the "popper" type fixings but can't press the two halves of the poppers together without denting the domed heads. Is there a special tool or technique for this? The domes are very soft. I have a popper/press stud "anvil" but there is no room to use this because the pin sticks up. Any advice? Thanks.

Is it possible to swap the harness from one side to the other? When I had the kit delivered they sent two passenger side QR buckles and I recall opening the back assuming it would be a quick swap over but it then seemed to become complicated! Any advice or How To Guides?

It's a conventional oil cooler made by Mocal sitting in front of the radiator. Don't think there is a thermostat. I'll have to check. As I will about the position of thetemp sender location! No modine. It's a Cosworth dry sump.

Quite possibly a TATDS but could have ramifications with regards to engine longevity.

I recently had a 266bhp 2l Duratec installed with a dry sump and oil cooler (advised by Cosworth). I also had an oil temp/mechanical pressure gauge fitted and am surprised about how slowly the oil temperature comes up. Even with the cooler taped up today it took 10 mile trip with probably 5 miles of dual carriageway and some sitting in traffic before it reached around 83c. The coolant was around 90-95c and came up much more quickly and was in line with the previous 420 set-up (minus oil cooler/dry sump). This seems to be a common theme with the 620s but is it a Duratec issue too? Is it a case of not driving it at all until up to a certain temperature? Or just not giving it the beans until a certain temperature? I suspect it was the same with the previous engine but I didn't have an oil temperature gauge. Maybe ignorance was bliss. Or maybe not...

LSD or open?

If you're that way inclined and a very competent tinkerer that sounds like a fun way to spend the winter months! But I'd be very surprised if you could make a running, driving car for less than it would cost to sell your 420 and buy a 620. Having said that, I hope you do go ahead with it and post lots of pictures!

In good condition. Preferably in plain vinyl but will consider carbon fibre or carbon vinyl. Thanks

Yes, they didn't include the bowls. Do you think orange/white/orange/white is legal?

I have some I bought on Amazon for about £60 for the pair. I'm very happy with them. They are much brighter headlights than OE but when the indicators flash they flash white/orange/white/orange rather than orange/nothing/orange/nothing. Which may be illegal. I'd be interested in hearing from someone who has 5.75inch lights that flash correctly. Also, I had some lights without the orange indicator rings whose halo was much brighter because all the halo LEDs were halo DRL rather than alternating white/orange.

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Thanks K7. I bought them!

Must be in good condition. What you got?

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