Doc007

£3,200 I’m selling a 2l Ford Duratec 420 spec wet sumped engine on a plenum with 17,555 miles on it. It was upgraded from 360 spec to 420 spec by Caterham (receipts included) as COVID struck and has been mapped by The Two Steves (see print out). It has been used predominantly on the road with 2-3 trackdays a year. The sale includes; Engine Plenum Airbox Clutch pressure plate/friction plate OE MBE 9A4 ECU with bespoke Two Steves map Coil cover (water dipped CF effect) The sale DOES NOT include; Bellhousing Exhaust Loom Beautifully painted red cam cover (it will come with an original black item unless you pay me a lot of money for what is, essentially, a work of art) Radiator Pipes Flywheel It’s plug-and-play for a 360 Duratec owner wanting a Caterham provided 420 upgrade! AND you get to keep/sell your own engine!!! Win! Win! The engine is still in my car at the moment but will hopefully be out sometime after the 13th July and be available for collection form Matt Blyth Motorsport near Basingstoke. If you would like to come and see and hear my engine then you’re welcome to come to Surbiton in Surrey before this time. Although there are no leaks and there is no smoke (there are plenty of people on this site that will attest to this) it does use a little oil. I recently did a Brands GP trackday and it used around 600ml driving there/back and on track. There MAY be other small bits and bobs that I’ll be keeping for my new engine installation that I have forgotten to mention so please ask if your not sure. During the build the brass thread on one of the connections was damaged and required a rerouting of the connectors to the battery during the post build check. This has never affected the function. Happy to send photos.

I cut the end off the driver's side knee trim panel. The bit that butts up to the bulkhead. It makes the process of removing/installing so much easier as there is room to move it back/forwards.

On a dry sumped Duratec should the oil level 5 mins after shut off (as per the handbook) be largely the same as when cold?

Thanks 7WOTW. Never heard of the need to balance the clutch with the front pulley and crank! Does everyone do that or is it just in certain circumstances such as racing? My gearbox is the Mazda 5 speed (22 spline????). Is this the equivalent to the AP CP5351-1 plate you mentioned? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-parts/6943-clutch-centre-plate-5-speed-duratec-mazda.html?search_query=duratec+clutch&results=315 And what of the "thrust bearing"?

What pressure and clutch friction plate would you recommend for a 250bhp Duratec with a Mazda 5 speed 'box? Mainly road use with 2-3 trackdays a year. Needs to be reasonably civilised and not need to be replaced alternate years. And is the OE clutch slave cylinder adequate to deal with the extra torque? And what is a thrust bearing in this context? So confusing...

Thanks Scott. 102dB would fall foul of quite a lot of track days. Do you have any sort of noise-reducing throttle body enclose/carbon box.

Sorry about the repetitive post! Nothing seems to work and then three are posted at once! And I can't see any way to delete them!

Has anyone had a problem being black-flagged on track days in a 420 on throttle bodies? I'm contemplating an upgrade from 420 spec on a plenum but it was around 100dB when it was 360 spec.

Has anyone had a problem being black-flagged on track days in a 420 on throttle bodies? I'm contemplating an upgrade from 420 spec on a plenum but it was around 100dB when it was 360 spec.

Has anyone had a problem being black-flagged on track days in a 420 on throttle bodies? I'm contemplating an upgrade from 420 spec on a plenum but it was around 100dB when it was 360 spec.

I have many weaknesses. Electronics are up there with the best of them...

Thanks Chris. Where did you get your lights from? Were they just plug and play?

How would I go about doing this? And would that work with the hazards too?

The lights are like these. There is a three-pin plug and another wire (indicator?). https://www.amazon.co.uk/FJiuJin-Headlight-Motorcycle-Projector-Headlights/dp/B08HQ3123Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?dchild=1&keywords=5.75+headlight+halo+indicator&qid=1615662146&sr=8-14#immersive-view_1615662208341

I replaced my headlights with LEDs with an incorporated halo DRL/indicator ring. And whilst they work really well there is one potentially MOT-scuppering problem. Instead of the halo DRL extinguishing when the halo indicators are flashing they flash indicator/DRL/indicator/DRL. They should flash indicator/nothing/indicator/nothing. I've recorded this happening but can't see an option for posting on this site. I would have thought it would be a relatively easy issue to resolve with resistors/relays/capacitors/other electrickery for the electrically minded. I'm not that person. Any ideas?

I replaced my headlights with LEDs with an incorporated halo DRL/indicator ring. And whilst they work really well there is one potentially MOT-scuppering problem. Instead of the halo DRL extinguishing when the halo indicators are flashing they flash indicator/DRL/indicator/DRL. They should flash indicator/nothing/indicator/nothing. I've recorded this happening but can't see an option for posting on this site. I would have thought it would be a relatively easy issue to resolve with resistors/relays/capacitors/other electrickery for the electrically minded. I'm not that person. Any ideas?

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a blowtorch that would be good enough to heat metal enough to facilitate the insertion of bearings? My current device doesn't really heat it enough. I'm want a non-oxyacetylene-based blowtorch that will get the metal hot enough.

When I bought my car the Caterham chap said they has switched from the 8 spokes to the Apollos because they were "rounder". Don't know whether there is any truth in than.

I took the shock off and the roll cage (caphead) bolt was tight : ( But the top of the shock was touching the inner aluminium panel. I 'modified' the panel with a hammer and the rattle is gone!!! Job done.

Mine is a metric 2015 chassis.

Just took the hood sticks off. 20yd of test drive revealed they were not the culprit. : (

I've had an annoying metallic rattling that seems to come me from over my left shoulder in the vacinity of the roll bar. DPR said there was a creaking coming from the roll bar when pushing the car around. Doesn't seem to be the hood sticks.

The assembly guide doesn't say much. I do remember it being tricky to get the bolt through the bottom of the shock. It seemed determined to sit at an angle.

Do you have to completely remove the shock or can you leave the bottom end attached and swing the top out of the way?

What is the minimum that needs removing to allow me to tighten the bolt that goes up into the roll cage from above the rear shock absorber? It's a 360R.