Doc007

Thanks chaps. And as for my question about whether it is possible that a short/other electrical problem at a site at the front or rear of the car being able to cause the problem under the dash?

Thanks for the offer Jonathan, but electrics are a foreign language to me. Leaving it to the pros.

My experience of roll bars, and my trackday cage in particular, would suggest that if you leave it long enough (I found 2yrs to be more than adequate) the rust will enlarge the hole for you and simultaneously lighten the part.

My 2016 Duratec had a "slight" issue when it tried to set itself a flame. I went to start the engine with a weak battery when smoke started pouring forth through the cigarette lighter socket. Fortunately, the fire died down and I was left with relatively limited damage to the loom near the fuse box. My car is being assessed by a garage but unfortunately my insurance company has walked away as they say there was no fire (despite light/ash/smoke/burnt wires). Anywho, my question is this; there has obviously been a short for some reason and it looks like replacing the loom is a distinct possibility. Obviously this is a potentially HUGE job and I'm seeing if corners can be cut. Could a problem with the wiring distant to the scuttle cause a short under the dash on the passenger side? If not, then cutting and joining the new loom onto the existing front light/rear light wiring could save a lot of time any money chasing and replacing them. Oh and anyone got a good recommendation for a small fire extinguisher? It's made me a little paranoid...

I would assume they would both be for the leading edge as this stands the risk of being blown off. If you were to put on at the front and one at the rear then you would struggle to get them on as the whole door needs to be swung away from the body to engage them.

I did my doors recently. As you say, the one-way popper goes top/front. The other effectively go in the corners and the trailing "tail" as it follows the curve of the arch. There may already be a popper fitted on the "tail" that you can use.

I'm looking to replace my Banner with an Odyssey 535 as A) It's not a Banner, B) It's lighter, and C) The terminals are the same way around and should fit without modification. Does anyone have a neat solution for making the battery itself physically fit? Andy at PGM was very helpful as I know they supply a 3D printed tray but they are refining the process at the moment. What have you got? I would also consider a 680 Odyssey if the OE cables fit and there is a battery tray solution. Thanks.

Thanks chaps. Weekdays it is. I'll try and avoid the school holidays. I suspect Wales will be heaving like last year. And I'll keep you posted, Alan1

Thanks Mamba. Probably thinking May/June.

I want to go to Anglesey for a track day with a day spent going there and back (from Surrey). Is it generally quieter on the roads at the weekend or during the week? When I go will be dictated by track day availability and will obviously impact on the busyness of the roads.

Excellent condition. No cracks. Filter is a little dirty. £35 delivered to UK. Or collection from Surbiton/Weybridge.

Any idea how I can increase the brightness ofthe illumination of my aftermarket oil pressure/temperature gauge? I can't read it at night. This bulb is a 12v2w bayonet-type fitting. Is there an LED replacement that would be brighter? Could I safely just put a higher wattage incandescent replacement in? Any links would be appreciated. Tried Googling and spoke to local auto electricians but they get spooked by it being a car they've never heard of!

Anyone got a leak-free Duratec radiator in good condition?

Spoke to a couple of local guys that were a little put off by it being aluminium. Said if it's in the right place they can effectively glue it. Turns out a subsidiary of Guildford Radiators supplies Caterham with the OE radiators!

I had heard similar reports about the radiators. Guess I'm lucky mine has lasted 6yrs! It's £366 for a new one. Anyone with experience of a better quality aftermarket replacement? I'll look in to a local radiator repairer.

Just noticed a small radiator leak on my 2016 Duratec. Not noticed the coolant dropping. Photo taken at full temperature with fan running. Can it be left? Can it be fixed (if so any recommendations as to where, preferably in Surrey)? Anyone got a good spare? Thanks

Roger Roger. I'll try this.

What exactly is the difference between a "racing cat" and the OE cat? Is it required to race? Would it satisfy Mr MOT?

Now that is a thing of beauty!

It's just a crate 2l Duratec from Cosworth. Rated at 265bhp. With Cosworth TBs and DS. Rods'n'pistons. OE crank.

No idea why it got flipped or how to unflip it. You can see where the 420 (dotted) and Cosworth torque lines cross at around 4.5k. Steve Greenald did a fantastic job of smoothing out the curves and maximising output but you're always going to be fighting the intrinsic properties of the engine.

Thanks James. It does seem that the R500 has a relative lack at the bottom end compared to the 420. To be expected I suppose. I'm currently looking at options to boost the mid range and David's exhaust looks to be a real contender. I'll keep you posted.

Very happy with this. Wish I'd bought one years ago. So much easier than a foot pump and no irritating leads to plug in to the cigarette lighter that Bly works with the ignition on. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Oasser-Inflator-Compressor-Rechargeable-Inflatables/dp/B08FM5BLN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=XD4E4CDTSIYT&keywords=battery+pump+tyre&qid=1643237929&sprefix=battery+pump+tyre%2Caps%2C55&sr=8-6

Thanks David. That's really helpful. Could you just confirm that the addition of the exhaust resulted in about 30 more torques at around 4K? That is exactly what my car needs. My 420 spec engine was much more 'fun' at low speeds with a cheeky slide coming out of a T-junctions and made more torque than my 266bhp engine until about 4.5k. Does your exhaust fit in the standard side skin/require any modification/cause any problems on track days? If you could give me an idea on price and any contact details I'd appreciate it. May a PM...

It's a Duratec with the OE ECU/alternator.