Doc007
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Everything posted by Doc007
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I know there’s a lot of information and have read half of the 29 page thread on failing Titan’s. But could someone give a quick précis of the options available to replace a BMW Titan LSD that has failed for the second time. The car started as a 360R and burnt out its carbon plates in short order. It is now 266bhp and the diff is making catastrophic noises. If it is failed I want a fit to get the s-and-forget replacement. Or at least something that will last 20k miles. Leaning towards an ATB. I do a few track days but am not a Time Attack merchant and spend very little time on the kerbs. What are my options (Quaife/Tracsport/SPC/ETC) Costs? Pros and cons? Don’t want to spend twice as much to get a similar level of function (Drexler???). Thank you.
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Reading the Premier Power guide it talks of the oil tank fitted to a CSR. And in point 3 talks of “remove the drain plug on the right hand side of the oil tank”. I have the 420-style triangular tank. There is a small grub screw on the left/front and the drain plug in the base purportedly made of cheese. And the bottom oil pipe. Which, if any, corresponds with the CSR right hand drain plug?
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I’d be interested to see a photo of the position of a Caterham dry sump drain plug if anyone has one. Do you think it’s possible that there’s a lot of oil that sits below the level of the drain plug? And perhaps some sort of curved pump would get the rest out? Or tilting the whole car to the passenger side??
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Dan. I did the same as you apart from the finger filter. I don’t think my Cosworth dry sump has one (see photos).
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Last time I attempted to change the oil on my (Cosworth) dry sumped Duratec I only got at 4l out. I siphoned the dry sump tank, removed the sump plug and oil filter and even disconnected the oil cooler hose (which yielded about 100ml!) I looked in the How To guides and searched the archives but found nothing to explain why this might be. Where does the oil hide??? I’m due an oil change and wondered if there was anyone in South London/Surrey who wouldn’t mind showing me the ropes. I’ve heard of Rally-Style changes but would not attempt such a thing on my own! I really would rather not blow my engine. They would be plenty of tea and HobNobs by way of recompense or would be happy to travel to you (along with the aforementioned HobNobs). Graeme
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Thanks John. Just checked. I DO have a bleed hole! Thanks.
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I presume you have the heater stopper pulled out whilst emptying/filling? And the “bleed screw” you’re referring to being on the radiator? I’ve got a Radtec and I’m not sure it have a bleed screw. Is there an alternative bleed point?
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Thanks John. It's a 2015 car. The symptoms are a stutter n the acceleration when you floor it usually in 2nd or 3rd from lowish revs. It then clears and accelerates hard. My electrical knowledge is "limited" but I'd like to try to test it. What setting should the multimeter be on? And which pins do I compare with which probe? Thanks.
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I've a Duratec coil subloom that I think is causing an intermittent misfire. Is it possible to check where the problem lies (and fixing it by unpicking and remaking a connection) with the subloom off the car? Perhaps by checking the continuity of each of the circuits? I have a multimeter but would need to know which holes to stick it in. So to speak...
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I might get my son to 3D print something that clips over the front. Is 110degrees the maximum temperature the oil cooler gets to?
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Does anyone have a good solution for a removable oil cooler cover for the individual lower oil cooler as used on Duratecs? I find my car runs cool on the road so cover it up.
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How do you remove the OE rocker type switches from the dash? I need to remove the headlight switch to check for possible causes for a blown fuse. Already checked the headlights themselves. 2016 Duratec.
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What made you choose that oil? It's the oil recommended by Cosworth for their crate built motors. But not sure why it differs from Caterham's recommendation.
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If the lights turn off when the cut-off is thrown what added advantage is there to disconnecting the battery?
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Can you confirm that removing the battery cut-off switch has the same overall effect as disconnecting the battery with regards to then working on the electrics of the car? I'm fitting LED rear lights tomorrow and just want to be sure.
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Thanks Jonathan. Is the problem experienced on old/new cars or both? And I'm not sure what you mean by your last sentence...
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I'm considering fitting the Caterham rear LED lights to my 2016 Duratec car. Is it simple plug and play? I've read a recent post with someone talking about polarities anyplace it put me right off! Any pitfalls? Do they come with good instructions? What are you meant to attach the rain cover to in the absence of the fog/reverse lights?
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This? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/tools/7571-scissor-jack.html?search_query=Jack&results=10 Was wondering if there's something smaller/lighter. Be interested in the VW part.
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What does everyone use when touring for a jack in case of punctures/breakdowns? And where do you keep it? Don't fancy a big chunk of metal bouncing around on the inside of the boot!
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Thanks!
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DJ, do any changes need to be made to the wiring to fit the PIAAs?
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Thanks John!
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I'm rather embarrassed to admit that I haven't ever really considered changing my fuel filter. What's more, I don't even know where it is. I presume it sits within the fuel pump housing which I believe sits within the tank which I know for a FACT is at the back beneath the boot floor! How often does it need changing? Any tips on how to do it? 2015 Duratec with ~24k miles (new engine at 17k miles).
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I response to my own question it would seem that 620 runners are just the Race seat runners with hastily tacked on captive nuts. They didn't even bother to paint over the nuts or the metal they ground off to weld the nuts on. All dimensions are the same.
