Doc007
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Everything posted by Doc007
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Does anyone have a pair (for one seat) of seat runners for a 620 that they don't need? I'm specifically looking for the "seat runners 620" see photo (rather than "seat runners for race seat") which I'm pretty sure have captive nuts. Maybe someone on here knows the difference between the two? Is the difference just the captive nuts, or are the hole-spacings different?
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Does anyone know the difference between the "seat runners for race seat" and "seat runners 620"? First and second photo respectively. It looks like the 620 runners may have a captive nut. Does anyone know if they are completely interchangeable? ie the spacing of the holes is the same. Thanks.
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Interesting. Why do you say this? Any idea of torque figures?
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The spring washer for the steering arm bolt in the picture became splayed. It was suggested that it may have been over tightened at the factory. But I can't find a torque figure for it. It's not in the build manual. Can anyone help?
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Now you have cage I'd advise getting a 14" Longacre mirror that tuck up out of the way and gives an amazing panoramic view of both sides and rear. And when you put an aeroscreen on you don't need another mirror. -
Yes, Scott. It was! But removing/cleaning/reattaching seemed to do the job on the LEFT.
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The right (as you look at it) oil cooler union whose pipe goes to the top of the triangular dry sump tank still seeps a little when the engine is up to temperature. I've tried removing, cleaning the mating surfaces and threads putting it back together but had no joy. Any suggestions? I was thinking of replacing either the oil cooler (£100) or the pipe (£150) but am not sure which is likely to be the problem. I'm also not whether the OE pipes on the Caterham website would fit my oil MOCAL cooler.
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Hmmm. Seems like a lot of work to poke the oil tube through that grommet. I can see me trying that and not being able to get the cable back through! I'll give it a try when the bits come but if it puts up too much of a fight I'll just go ahead and put a hole in the bulkhead. Its will also allow me to use an extra cover for the tube (another tube slit longitudinally) to give it more protection.
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It's the tube without the stainless braid but I guess the same principle applies. But how did you get the heat shrink over the fittings on either end.
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Thanks JV and RS06. Probably try poking through from the inside out before throwing a a tantrum and drilling through the bulkhead. When fitting to the back of the dial is there a special process or is it just a case of attaching it to the engine end, start the engine, wait until it's squirting out of the dial end and quickly screwing it in to the back of the dial?
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I need to thread a new mechanical oil pressure pipe through from the engine bay into the cockpit through the grommet on top of the transmission tunnel. But as you can see from the photo (sorry it's flipped through 90 degrees!) the hole is already jammed tight. I haven't yet got the new pipe but assume that it comes with the brass fitting permanently attached. Does anyone have a trick to pull it through? I'll tape the old one to the new one and pull it through but the fitting is likely to get stuck.
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Thanks Stuart. Sounds scary!
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Are you referring to the section immediately above the blue anodised hose union? If so, that is just the unpainted aluminium of the cooler. Not a washer.
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Leaking oil cI did an oil change on my Duratec/dry sumped car and, against my better judgement, removed the lower oil hoses in search of the missing oil. When I ran it up to temperature there was a small leak from the LEFT (as you're looking at it) hose union, so I tentatively nipped it up a bit tighter. But it still leaks. I'm very concerned about stripping the thread and wondered whether some PTFE tape could be used in this situation? And any advice about how to do this without spilling all the new oil? Which part is likely to strip threads first, hose or oil cooler?
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Thanks aerobod. Hadn't considered that it might be low. Now I'm not sure how much to put in. The amount I removed? Assume it's empty and put 6l in? What happens to any excess? Being dry-sumped presumably the crank isn't going to be hitting it?
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I'm doing an oil change on my 2l Duratec with a Cosworth dry sump. I got about 3.8l from the dry sump via the drain plug, 200ml from the filter and 300ml syphoned from the DS tank. I was expecting about 6.5l. I don't want to start undoing the oil hoses willy-nilly, only later to find them leaking! Where should I look first?
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There are two issues; 1. The alignment-with this sort of headlight the spread tends to be quite broad but you should be able to get them aligned ok. 2. They are unlikely to be CE marked to mean they are legal. However, I've not heard anyone fail the MOT because of them and this is certainly my experience.
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Probably a stupid question but does the engine take its feed from the bottom of the DS tank? And what stops the oil draining from the DS tank into the sump when left over time?
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Has anyone got a pair of S3 carbon Tilletts laying around gathering dust? I can't stretch to the £2.5k Caterham are asking.
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Make sure when you're putting the new bolts in that the hole on the DeDion lines up as it's easy to cross thread.
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Strongly recommend upgrading the OE incandescent bulb to LED. Gives you a fighting chance of seeing it in the dark.
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Bingo! Thanks Cobar.
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Getting "upload error" when I try to add a photo. It's a new iPad. Any suggestions?
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Does anyone know the name of this connector? And the crimping tool needed to use it.
