ScottR400D

That's the point isn't it? We can't change compression ratios and whilst higher octane can allow for a higher compression, in practical terms it also allows for advanced ignition which gives a longer more complete burn, releasing more energy? If our cars are able to advance ignition enough to use the potential of higher octane fuel then it would be worth using. Question is, are they?

Take it steadily and make sure socket is square on to bolt as you undo with as long a wrench as you can get, to improve control. Two people, one ensuring socket is located and one turning is best. This is assuming you have similarly poor fitting socket and tight thread locker.

Namrick would be a good place to try; I got them from a local fastener supplier. 35p each and you can check dimensions.

For the 4 pot calipers with the torx bolts the bolts are M10 x 1.5, 70mm long with a plain section 35mm. 75mm overall will fit and the plain could be up to 45mm, if you can't get exact. I got VFS 12.9 grade. I think they're an American make but there should be many good brands.

Well, after L7C member and poster on here, CR500dom, did me a big favour by coming over with his welder and getting my errant calliper bolt out by welding a nut to it, I finally got to check the near side bearing. It was fine, plenty of grease in evidence which just reinforces the idea that some of them don't! It had much more than the other side. So, all back together with new bolts in the calipers and the bearings greased up.

Not at all Jonathan, you had me thinking for a minute whether I'd dreamt that and your post made me rethink what had happened and research the fasteners a bit. I'm quite happy with what I'm doing now though annoyed that it causing so much difficulty. I would strongly advise anyone with a newish car with pre assembled uprights/brakes to have a look at this soon, rather than when they may have to.

I had to clean the threads out with a tap, too.

Having done a bit of research I believe the bolts are made by a very reputable American firm, though I could be wrong. I'm tending towards us not using the correct socket though if it's not Torx E or EP I have no idea what it is. Still not impressed by how they've been fitted. They were very difficult to unscrew, especially given that they're a fastener that needs to be removed on occasion to change pads. Even the three bolts that came out show significant wear on the head with one removal. Not sure what thread locker was used but I wonder how the threads in the upright would stand up to regular removal in that state. Anyway, I've replaced with a good quality 12.9 cap head, loctited in with 243. What has anyone else used on calliper bolts?

I don't mind asking the factory but reading the above Griffchris has already done so and they said they didn't know but then that it was E12 which doesn't fit as well as EP12 in Griffchris' or my experience.

Just to resurrect this thread, I stripped my car down today, or tried to, and came across the same problems. Started on the offside first. You have to be very careful; the heads don't fit any socket well, and I have both types. Torx + is nearest but still a little loose. Another issue is that the bolts are retained by God knows what sort of loctite material but it's way over the top. Until the last few threads it takes a torque of around 60Nm to unscrew them The wheel bearings look like they have only been shown the grease tub, very little in evidence. So, got the offside done OK but replaced the bolts with 12.9 cap heads. We're only talking 40 or so Nm to tighten so they are fine. The original bolts are of very poor quality, you can quite easily file or drill them. Poor show Caterham. They're stamped 10.9 but I doubt they actually are. On to the near side and I too have rounded a bolt off, even though I was being as careful as I could. Bit stuck now. Have drilled a hole in it but it's a little off centre so it looks like I'll need to weld the socket on and remove that way. I would repeat the warning about grease. I'm not at all surprised people are seeing premature wear.

I haven't had a failure, just wanted to check following recent stories of under greased axles.

Thanks Charles. Be figured out how the bearing fit now. My cars not that old, hopefully the condition will be OK and I can make sure the stub axle is clean and they're all greased up OK.

Can you remove the inner bearing with the seal, check the grease and then re-fit the same seal? Does the seal come out and go back without damage?

Anybody have anything like an assembly drawing, by any chance? I've seen the bearings on CC website, I assume the seals an easy push fit into the hub?

OK, thanks. What type of bearings are used? How are they lubricated if they're sealed?

Reminded by this thread of the stories of poorly greased wheel bearings on new cars I thought I'd have a look at mine. Removing the wheels I see there is no dust cap on the end of the stub these days, just the castellated nut with pin. What type of bearings and seals are used, how are they located on the stub axle and how are they lubricated?

Good job! That pump works better than the round ones with detachable pump, IME. Would advise the use of something rigid to tape the tube to, to ensure you can reach the bottom of the tank.

Couldn't be the stat failing to open occasionally? Overheating in the block might force water out of the header tank. That might also account for the crap in there too. Just a thought.

Thing is, it's said to be bad practice to put a shake proof and plain washer together. The plain washer reduces the effectiveness of the shake proof and can render it useless. IIRC the use of them is quite common in the CC manual. As is often the case it doesn't matter either way most of the time but there may come a time when it will! maybe loctite's the way to go!

I tape the flexi tube to a long piece of brass rod, which keeps it rigid enough to get it right to the bottom of the tank. Removes just about all the oil from the tank.

Yes, similar to 6000 but smaller which would make change a little messy as you couldn't empty tank in one 'suck' You can get the 6000 for £30 or so, the HD 6.5 for around £48 I think. Well worth the cost to get a good one.

I have a Pela 6000 (6 litre). Had it a few years and it works OK. Actually, I would recommend the HD 6.5 cylindrical one (also sold as Sealey TP69 I think) but it's quite a bit more expensive. That type is better though, IMO.

I put my socket in the side of the detachable fuse box cover and ran the wires through the big grommet to the battery. Fuse is close to socket. Works fine for charging battery. Didn't fancy putting big hole in bulkhead.

No need to remove oil pipes, next to nothing comes out if you suck tank dry win Pela pump and drain at finger filter after warming. Change filter and refill with the same amount drained. Check level after running.

Forget my earlier post After looking at my manual again I found the OP's instructions on P140. Looking at my car again maybe I did assemble that part in that way but not with all the washers. In all honesty I have no recollection of that part of the assembly but it appears I have one washer under the nut on the rigid side, that's the nut that is rotated to clamp the joint. Plenty of clear thread ensuring by the union locks up properly. One thought. Are you sure the washers you've used are the right ones? They look quite thick. Looking at the various hose kits available from CC they seem to come with lighter, thinner ones, if any.