ScottR400D
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Everything posted by ScottR400D
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Wobble bars? Edit: Sorry for the double post but the site won't let me delete it.
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I don't remember that being a problem. It's a cap head isn't it? Hex bit, extension and torque wrench?
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Looks like petrol with small amounts of organic solvents, some of which are probably in regular petrol in any case. Hard to see how it could do much either way.
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I had the same paint issue after my clutch cylinder leaked. I stopped the leak by replacing the cheap original with a girling cap. My brake cylinder hadn't leaked as far as I know but I keep both cylinders 'wrapped' with blue wipe roll just in case. I repainted the top of the side panel using an aerosol and, though you'd know if you looked closely, it's hardly noticeable.
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I found it best to remove the Caterham sleeving and replace with heat shrinkable tube. Once shrunk on that goes through the bracket all the way.
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As an aside, I don't have a spare but do carry a kit with pliers, puncture repair strips/solution and tools and a 12v compressor. I reckon I could repair a good %age of punctures at the roadside.
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Some more images:
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Well, here it is a cheap, crude but hopefully effective solution...........
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Hi Dave. Yes it was remapped. Don't have a pic of the back of the filter but I can take one tomo. Luke did a good bit of work sizing everything to expose the trumpets and fit everything under the bonnet (SV). The filter is as chosen by him to fit in with the plan.
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They've been off twice to fit the Aeroscreen in just over a year since the car was built. I have to agree that the spindles are poor quality and show signs of wear where the clip slides along, already. I guess CC are too busy dreaming up new 'ultimate products' than fixing basic issues! Some good tips, thanks. I've got an idea myself which I'll try and then report back on.
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Can't really advise you but I've just had my 210 Duratec upgraded with Titan RBTBs by Luke Stevens. Upgraded injectors and TPS, carbon trumpets. Its now 220bhp/ Starts instantly and idles steadily at 900rpm or so from cold, pulls away very smoothly and has perfect manners at all revs. Sounds and goes very nicely.
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These show the difference between my spindles and my wiper arms. Are they all like this?
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My question is more about the fit of the arms on the spindles. I have no issues with blades contacting the frame, which would be easy to fix. The arms seem to be a lousy fit to the spindles.
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Out in the rain (a rare occurrence) the other day, when a wiper came off its spindle. Managed to pick it up but in closer looking both seem at risk. The 'splines' in the wipers are completely different to this on the spindles and though the spring clips do hook under the spindle, as soon as the wiper is allowed to rest on the screen and the wiper spring is tensioned, the clips lift out of the groove they're in. No wonder it fell off. Any thoughts?
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Mine is just pushed on. Slacken off handbrake so lever comes up vertical, remove gear knob and lift off rear first.
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the switch block is momentary action, EAO Series 61:
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the switch block is momentary action, EAO Series 61:
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Thinking about it, whilst the switch is momentary, it does have a contact block on the end that may well switch back and forth when the button is pressed.
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My R400 has that layout but with the standard speedo/rev counter. You're right, it's a momentary switch which operates via a control board under the dash (at least mine does) The switch light in mine, though, does have a distinctly brighter light when on main beam. There is also a main beam indicator in the rev counter.
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I had a close look at my 6 speed whilst it was up on stands for a spanner check last week. It is adjustable laterally, a little and I remember taking quite a bit of time getting it exactly central. It's well clear of any rails; there is a bulge, forward on the left side of the box that is very close to the insulation, possibly touching, but I can't say I've noticed any undue vibration. Is your box clear of the insulation? Is the vibration still high frequency?
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I used thin sheets of craft foam, held in place with minimum amounts of tape to protect the outer panels and pipe insulation for chassis rails.
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I used thin sheets of craft foam, held in place with minimum amounts of tape to protect the outer panels and pipe insulation for chassis rails.
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From what I know the speedo calibration is a very common issue. It's easily sorted once you know how but not mentioned in the handbook or manual. I don't think the gearbox is a one off issue either.
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Yes, I'd have thought it was the electronic one with the code I putted. Mine was 10% fast against my satnav, on delivery. I had some details that told you how to access the code and adjust it. I adjusted it by 7% to leave the speedo about 3% fast.
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IMO there's a risk of damaging the rear gearbox seal fitting the engine and box last, as seen on at least one build blog. I never felt there was any risk of knocking the car off stands when fitting the engine and box, but the space under the car was very good to have at the time. Don't think there's much wrong with the build order as in the manual tbh.
