ScottR400D

Nothing to be nervous about, just take your time and make sure you understand what you are doing before you start each stage. I'm intrigued by the advice above to fit the prop shaft 'first'! I followed the manual; engine and box, propshaft then diff.

Can't see it myself. One mount has a triangular base and a significant angle in the horizontal, the other mount angles vertically. Incorrect fitment of either would stop the other fitting at all and try to put the engine all over the place, wrong height, canted over etc. I guess it could happen if there was too much tolerance around the various bolts holding the mounts to the engine and the chassis but, from memory of my build, they were all a pretty good fit.

You couldn't really do that JNC, all sorts of things wouldn't line up, gearbox mount, exhaust, inlet...... ....and I'm sure it would be picked up at the PBC. Well I would hope so!

My brake and clutch M/Cs leaked on first track outing. Changed the cheap clutch cap for a Girling and cleaned and retightened brake cap. They don't seem to leak now but I cable tie some blue paper wipe around just in case! As for the vibration, I can't see why the gearbox touching the chassis, or anything touching for that matter, would cause screws to vibrate loose, if the two events are connected. What is the source of the vibration would be my question. I've never noticed any similar, significant vibration from my R400, nor any loose screws in 3500 miles.

My knee panels were fitted with self tappers originally, though the rivets holding the main side panels in place restrict its movement and thereby make the panels a bit awkward to get in and out. I plan to have some simpler, carbon ones made so they go in and out very easily.

I fitted one to my R400 earlier this year. The above sums it up perfectly. I would strongly you advise fitting the channels with captive nuts or its a long job to change. Having tried mine out on several occasions I now only use for track days, much preferring a screen and doors on the road. Other opinions are available!!

If it's the dash with the multiple push button switches, as my R400D, the fault may lie in the control board bolted to the bulkhead under the scuttle. I had issues with my hazards coming on and off randomly, which needed a new control board. There's another thread about that with images. The board has on it, amongst other things, the relays for the hazards and indicators. There are three plug in connectors on the board which might be worth checking the fit of first. If it's the same layout of course.

But no need for a bigger filter unless you're leaving a long time between changes, is there?

If the column doesn't have a splined end you can buy a Caterham SPA boss c/w top half of column from DT for £188. The Rapfix boss is better, though more expensive, but I've found the SPA ones OK if kept clean and greased.

I found an oil filter cross reference chart whilst searching Mann W77; it confirms both the items mentioned as equivalent to the UFI filter. Opie appear to stock the Mahle filter

Yes, they're archaic but given the classic headlight type, not a bad solution. I had one of my headlights dismantled the other day to adjust the metal tag at the bottom and found the clips easy enough to get out and back with a thumb and long nose pliers.

I checked my, unprotected 3500 mile, dampers after seeing your earlier posts. They're all perfectly clean and dry.

So when you rev it up the top surface of the plenum lifts? And switched off it is in the 'sucked in', lower position as at idle?

Well, I see Tom has posted some other video on YouTube revving the car without filter so he'll no doubt be along soon to tell us what it did. It's hard to see in the video whether it is still flexing or not.

My R400 has now done 3500 miles. From build it was filled to the edge of the filler hole with Comma oil. A couple of weeks ago I refilled with Redline, again until it overflowed. Cars done 3 TDs in its mileage, including one last week, after the oil change No leaks, so far.

That's a good idea, so obvious now we hear it!

It's odd. Your filter should be fine after that mileage. I've just looked at my plenum, not running, car's up on stands for oil change, service etc. The plenum seems very solid and firm, can't imagine it doing what you're seeing but I'll check when I start it.

When did you last change your filter? Looks to be a lot of resistance there.

Here is an image showing the switch from the back and another which shows the complete switch. The switches are EAO 61 series, supposedly very good, so it may be a relay elsewhere at fault.

Thanks for that Steve, I did wonder. JK, I've checked the connections on the switch, they seem OK. I'll post some images later so you can see how switch works. All the switches are the same, they just manage different functions through the control board and or the relays near the fuses. I have a spare switch from my issue earlier in the year with the hazards.

Hi JK. It is a momentary switch but I think has two positions. First push switches on ignition, presumably through relays. Push further and it energises starter. In this instance pushing it did absolutely nothing. I agree a check on connections would be a good place to start, and if it happens again hopefully I'll be somewhere where I can test what's happening.

Hi all. I have a 2015 R400 with the multiple button dashboard, where you press the starter button to turn on the ignition and then press it again to start. Did a track day at Snet yesterday. All went very well except for an odd incident mid way through the day. Bringing the car back into the garage we had to wait for a few minutes for our mate to move his car. Turned our car off. After a couple of minutes restarted and moved in to the garage and turned off again. A few seconds after, I went to turn on the ignition to check the oil temp and nothing happened. Pressing the button turned nothing on at all. (normally all switches light up and the gauges sweep across and settle) Tried it a few times with nothing. The lights, hazards, indicators and horn all worked, battery's fine. Checked the main inertia switch, didn't seem to have tripped and guess the accessories wouldn't have worked with that off? After no more than a minute or two the ignition switch worked and was no trouble for the remainder of the day or up until now. Any thoughts anyone?

Racetech convex on the door for me. Look good, very steady and one hole fitting.

If it's not working at all LH there's a chance it's not at all accurate RH. I would get another wrench and check both sides.

Well, at design both ignition timing and compression would be set based on the recommended fuel, I guess. In use, the knock sensors will dynamically retard the ignition if detonation is sensed, as could be if a lower grade of fuel was used. If an engine was designed with parameters based on 95 octane then there'll be no detonation whilst using it. However, it's hard to see how there would be any gain in performance when simply using a higher octane fuel, unless the ignition was advanced, which wouldn't happen dynamically. I do stand to be corrected on this but that's how I've understood what I've researched.