martyn

Good call.. I've added the SBD cable to the equipment thread.

I have the SBD ECU diagnostic cable for use with Easimap. Suitable for Sigma cars (and possibly others). Bristol. Happy to bring my laptop and explain how it all works.

Disconnecting the lambda for diagnostic purposes won’t cause any damage. When no lambda sensor is present, the ECU reverts to its default map (or rather it uses the same map it always does, but just doesn't attempt to modulate the fuelling). It runs in this state during the 30 second warmup timer, and during wide throttle openings. On my car, the base map is actually pretty close to optimal. To the point that there is no discernible difference between having the lambda connected or not. The SBD cable is a good investment if you're going to attempt to fix faults yourself. Certainly better than randomly replacing sensors. The easimap software also gives you a very good insight into what’s happening inside the engine and ECU.

I had very similar symptoms on my sigma 150. Spluttering and cutting out at anything less than 3/4 throttle. Switching off for 5 minutes would resolve it temporarily. Turns out it was simply the spark plugs. They were completely black - replacing them fixed everything. Sounds like yours may be something else by the fact that you couldn't restart the car after pulling in. That sounds like an intermittent electrical problem like a faulty connection. Probably worth checking the spark plugs anyway just because everything else sounds so similar to my problem. Do you have easimap and the diagnostics cable?

I've just been down and checked mine - It is a Ford item, but you probably already knew that. There doesn't seem to be any legible part number on mine though. There might be a part number on the reverse when you remove it? Id probably take a punt and buy ford part number 1071403 HERE If its not the right one when it turns up then send it back. That price seems a little high though!

Thanks, that's interesting. I can visualise a screw in the end so that only the head protrudes, effectively making the key longer. I guess I'd need one with a fairly shallow head - a millimetre or two? Could this be caused by wear to the switch's internal "screw thread" - meaning that the rotation doesn't cause enough forward pressure? Otherwise, if its wear to the key itself then presumably a new key would fix it?

Just went down to the garage to run the car for a bit as it hasn't been used in a while. Everything was completely dead. A quick poke around showed 12v on the battery. Some further investigation showed that I could get power by pushing the master switch key in and wiggling it about a bit. Up until now, I've never had a problem, including the last time I started it up - about 4 weeks ago. However now, if I just casually insert the master switch and twist (like I always did) it doesn't work. I need a concerted effort to push the master key in so I can feel the contact/spring compress before twisting. Once powered up, I can let go of the key and it seems to stay powered - although I haven't tried driving like this. Is this common? Is it likely to be some fault internally with the switch or a bad connection/earth on the back? Car is 8 years old – I presume the switch is also. Switch is mounted in the usual location of the driver’s side scuttle. I'm tempted to spray some ACF50 into the switch to see if that improves things, but if the switch is on the way out, I'd prefer to just replace it as I don't want it cutting out while I'm driving.

The hole alignment and fit might be seem 'correct', but in your current positions they are causing some asymmetry. If your right hand side is sitting up too high, then that suggests the right hole needs to be enlarged rearward slightly, allowing the right leg to sit forward a bit more.

I think a gap under the screen in places is fairly normal and not much you can do other than fit some trim strip or something. However, if the screen is asymmetrical then consider lengthening or enlarging one of the holes on the sides. I had to modify both holes just to get mine to fit. Try unbolting the screen, but keep the center poppered down. Then you can move the 'legs' about to see where they need to be for the best fit.

What is the definition of 'refurbish' chassis here? If you dont want a new long front or basket, how exactly do they refurbish a twisted chassis? Cheers.

Yes, although there are no stops that control the pedal rest position. Instead, the pedal moves until the master cylinder reaches full extension. The linkage can then be wound in or out to adjust the pedal rest position. The throttle is slightly different and does have a stop at both ends, both of which can be adjusted. Its a case of ensuring there is enough cable tension to hold the pedal against the stop at rest, and that the WOT stop is adjusted correctly to fully open the throttle body without stretching the cable. It'll all be clear when you take a look in the pedal box.

Yep.. wind the clutch and throttle pedal stops all the way down. Clutch and brake can then be adjusted at the linkage with their respective mater cylinder to move the neutral position further into the travel. For the throttle, you'll need to loosen off the cable tension to account for the lower pedal position, and/or bend the pedal a bit.

Is this the locked Caterham ECU, or is it a re-programmable after-market one?

Yep that part number is correct. Same one is in mine. Here is it: http://www.fordpartsuk.com/shop/ford_focus_oil_filter_from_2011_to_2012_f_1883037.htm

Thanks SM25T, I assumed the self-adjustment was a continuous ongoing thing as the pads wear and therefore the handbrake shouldn’t affect it too much. But I guess you mean the first adjustment after a big wind back. Oliver, the single piston slider type calliper is a fairly crude design and there will always be some residual drag on the disc. Even with everything working correctly it takes a fair bit of force to turn by hand - especially if you don’t have the wheels fitted and right after you've been pressing the brake pedal. Could this be what you're experiencing, or are they properly stuck on.

For the self-adjustment, is applying the handbrake first an important step in this process? I have quite a lot of free pedal travel as the rears take up slack. Makes me think the adjustment isn't working as it should. Sorry to hijack the thread, feel free to PM me with replies. Actually, just re-read that and it seems you're suggesting not to apply the hand-brake before operating the pedal for adjustment.

Spark plug gap is a tricky one; the original spec for the engine is quite wide at 1.3mm. At some point later in the engines life, ford reduced this down to about 1.0mm (I think primarily to reduce stress on the ignition system components). Whether you follow ford's guidance is a personal decision. My car runs perfectly fine at 1.3mm. I'll just have to wait and see how often I need to replace the leads and coil pack.

Yes giving it a good shake. It comes out sort of foamy sometimes, which I think might give it the illusion of viscosity. But I think if you get it on your hands or leave it anywhere it runs all over the place and gets into all the gaps.

Remember that any attachment that offsets the centre of rotation (I believe a crows foot does) will invalidate you torque wrench's scale. Some attachments will have a correction figure on them so that you can adjust accordingly.

I've got a couple of cans of ACF50. Not really sure what to make of it. Hasn't been on the car long enough for any meaningful conclusions to be reached. It is identical to WD40 in smell, perhaps more runny and a bit less oily. I guess you could spray it everywhere, it certainly isn't going to do any harm (obviously be sensible - don’t go spraying it on the brake discs!). My car doesn't have any other corrosion protection, so twice a year I'll jack the front up and spray ACF50 into the grot traps until it drips out by the rear wheel arches. That’s ok if you're happy to top it up periodically, but if not, something a little more permanent (and messy) like Dinitrol 3125 might be better.

When re-attaching the rear-view mirror I used methylated sprit to clean both the windscreen and the mirror base. I then heated the sticky pad and surface with a hair dryer to get it nice and hot before pressing into place. This has resulted in a rock solid mounting that isn't going to fall off any time soon. It’s been on there 8 months and still solid.

Nothing to worry about with disconnecting the battery. The map is permanently written into the ECU so no worries about losing it. I guess the car would only have received the updates if it has been into a Caterham main dealer for its servicing. Best bet is to contact Caterham, explain and suggest about the ECU map. The problem will be getting to someone technical enough to not just fob you off with excuses. Might be a good idea to approach this through Williams Automobiles and ask them to contact on your behalf. I suspect they probably have some inside contact phone numbers they can use. Hopefully someone else will be along with some more concrete info to back up my patchy memory!

Hmmm.. Something in the back of my mind seems to remember that this might be a common fault with the R400D. If indeed it is the same problem then it is fixed with an ECU update. Where do you have the car serviced? Do you know if the ECU has the latest map?

You are both exactly right.. Ford at some point did change the spark gap for the focus 1.6 from 1.3mm to 1.0mm. Hence the difference in NGK item number. However, I dont think this message ever reached Caterham. My car has been serviced at Caterham main dealer its entire life and when I checked recently, it was fitted with TR5B-13 (1.3mm). This is why I think it is a good idea to check what you already have and stick with it unless there is a reason to change.

Also should have added.. You can easily remove your current plugs and check what they are. Probably best to stick with the same ones unless you have any specific problems with them.