martyn
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Everything posted by martyn
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Well I wanted to go with a naked handbrake but I was concerned about how it would upset the handling balance of the car. So I'm taking it a step at a time with incremental improvements. Seriously though. I don't have one of these handbrake grips but will probably order one.
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It looks better than the original, is lighter than the original, and works better than the original (is narrower in diameter which means fingers fit under it easier). I'd hardly call it non-functional decor! There are far worse things you could spend your money on.
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Hi, Do any Sigma 150 owners happen to know (or would be willing to check) the ECU fault codes/messages that are normal and expected on this installation when plugging into the Easimap software? I have done this with mine and want to know the faults that can be safely ignored while trying to diagnose an issue. To view the faults in Easimap, click: Page > Add Panel.. Then under the Fault Conditions folder, select Fault List. That real-time panel will then scroll through all the error conditions. For reference here are the faults listed for me: Throttle 2 Sensor Oxygen 1 Sensor Baro Pressure Sensor Unknown (x3)Thanks all.
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Today around 5:30pm. I was on the bike and gave you a thumbs up.
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As per the title... Not many places seem to sell them, and where they do there seems to be a few sizes available. Can somebody point me in the right direction? Or, is there some other household tool that will do the job? Happy to buy second hand if anyone has a spare they want to sell. Thanks.
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Would be awesome to get that brake bleeding article finished off with some useful tips. Especially as I'm battling with that at the moment. Might start another topic on that though to prevent this one going off topic.
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As per title.. Can anyone reccomend somewhere in Bristol. Millwood is 35 minutes up the road but I'd prefer to take it somewhere closer.
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Jules, sorry to hijack a bit... I acknowledge that the single piston rear brakes are pretty limited, and certain allowances need to be given. But, what level of "stickiness" or pad rubbing is acceptable? My rear wheels are very difficult to turn by hand. When I push my car in/out of the garage there is a loud scraping / rubbing sound of the discs running through the pads. Also audible when driving at low speed. Is this normal? p.s. I have already had the brakes apart to clean everything and grease the sliders.
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Well that my entertainment for the evening sorted then!
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Does seem to be a bit of a weak point. I guess if you have adjustable runners then those threads come in for even more abuse!
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Ok panic over. I ran a tap into it and that cleaned up the thread enough to get the bolt to tighten down. Used a low to moderate torque and instead put a bit of blue thread lock on.
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Yeah, I've been in contact with Tillett via email and Steve has just this minute replied. Seems there is some repair possible if I send the seat to them... "we can cut open the back frame and bond in a new fitting, but this leaves you with a patch over the hole" Sounds quite drastic, but I haven’t followed up for any more info on that yet. Firstly I'm going to try re-tapping the thread. Hopefully that'll clean up whatever thread is left. With the help of some thread locker I'm optimistic that it might result in a secure enough fixture.
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No access to the other side. What you're looking at there is effectively set a block in GRP. Although the hole goes much deeper than the metal thread. I've got no idea how the metal is held in place. Presumably bonded in some way.
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I'm not sure a photo will help too much in showing the detail inside the hole. Looking in the other good holes, there are only 3 or 4 turns of thread in them, the rest appears to be some sort of glue (maybe). That’s what I mean when I say there isn't a lot of metal to work with.
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How annoying! So the threadded hole in the base of the seat has stripped. It wasn't even being torqued up tight at the time. What are my options here? Has anyone tried a helicoil on a seat before? The design of the seat makes me doubtful it will work well. There isn't a lot of metal to thread into.
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Just had a quick look through the assembly guide and it doesn't give any general guidance on the use of coppaslip (I thought it did). Only a couple of specific mentions at various points throughout. As a general rule, do people put it on most fasteners? Or only when the assembly guide says it is needed.
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Thanks Jonathan. I've identified the plugs currently in the car and I'm going to replace with the same ones for now. I'm almost certain that will fix the misfire, but I suspect that the car is running rich and that is what caused the plugs to get in such a state. While diagnosing the problem I'm being careful to only change one thing at a time. Hence the reason for not changing the type of plugs. Fix one thing then review for a period and see what further problems come up.
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Thanks Chris, That's a great photo. I'm not sure the hoses that I have are long enough to route like that though. Did you create your own or buy the ones from Caterham (linked above). Another complication is that I have the Watts linkage. So coming around the rear of the radius arm doesn't necessarily keep it clear of all the moving bits.
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Sorry Steve, haven't noticed any SV specific hoses. Might be worth trying redline? Or you could easily get some hoses made up, you'll just need to figure out what fittings you need on each end. Either that or you could buy the S3 ones from caterham and a length of hose then swap the fittings over yourself. The goodridge hose can be picked up for around £11 a metre.
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Mike, can you enlighten me about where the copper washer and nut go? (Both supplied with the hoses). Again, I'm sure it will become obvious when I actually do it. Just want to be sure I'm clear on everything before I empty the brake fluid.
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Gregs, They were ordered directly from Caterham. http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=1135 http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=1134 Different lengths because the T junction isn't in the middle. However they are labelled the wrong way round here. On my car the shorter one goes to the RH calliper. Regardless, you need one of each anyway so it doesn't matter. They're standard goodridge hoses using their modular / reusable fittings. So you could get them made up anywhere, although I think you'd struggle to beat the price. Some of those individual goodridge fittings can get pretty expensive!
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Grubbster, Did you route the hose under the radius arm (following a similar route to the fixed pipe) or over the top of the radius arm? Going under the radius arm results in quite a severe bend that sits very near the radius arm attachment. This is my reasoning for the use of a 90 elbow. Over the top doesn't really seem feasible given the length of the hose. I’m sure it will become obvious once I start screwing hoses together. I'm just trying to visualise how it will fit before I start taking things apart. Here is a random image from the internet so people can see what I mean about the routing. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A9c3Tcju3O0/TZeZp3aPPLI/AAAAAAAAAA4/yO-WuA47Xxs/s1600/2011+04+02_0259.jpg
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I've picked up some goodridge hoses to replace the fixed rear brake lines. Seems like a sensible thing to do from both a safety and practicality point of view. Although now I'm wondering if it is worth it.. I understand this is mandatory for the academy racers? Anyway.. After a very quick trial fit, it seems like it may be a good idea to fit a 90 degree elbow piece on the end of the hose that attaches to the calliper. This will allow the hose to run straight along the de dion tube and give better clearance from the radius arm / watts linkage attachment. Has anybody else done this, or do you just loop the hose around on itself. Would be great to see some pictures if you've already fitted these flexible hoses! Thanks.
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I’m sorry but what does POBC mean!? Yes the carbon build up may indicate that the plug is too cool, however the engine does run rather rich in my opinion. That could also account for the carbon build-up. It’s difficult to know if the plugs are the symptom or the cause. Given that I have only owned the car for 4 months and don't know much of it's history, I'll just go with a straight swap and see what difference that makes. If I find myself in the same position 6-12 months down the line then I'll know there is some other problem that needs addressing.
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Jonathan, I'm not sure what guide you are referring to. Presumably some workshop manual? The only guide I have is the Assembly Guide and that doesn't mention spark plugs (and neither would I expect it to).
