martyn

Unfortunately the squealing is a normal side effect of pads intended to be used at sustained high temperatures (on track). You'll probably notice that when the brakes are hot they don't make a sound. If you don't intend to use the car on track then ask them to fit some more road biased pads. My brakes squeal like mad if I gently roll up to some traffic lights. Its just one of those characterful things that you sign up for when you buy a "race car for the road".

The shift lights and the ECU operate independently and are configured separately. It is simply not possible for the engine to go into "limp mode" (or develop a fault) and for the shift light to pick up that change and reflect the lower rev limit on the lights. The tacho and shift lights are both fed from the same signal, so it is not possible for the shift lights to show 7200 (max RPM / flashing) and the tacho to show a lower value (6200). Unless by some coincidence you managed to knock the shift light's buttons and reconfigure it at the same time as developing a fault. I'd suggest that your tacho is faulty and displaying a slightly lower value than it should. So your car is actually at max rpm and the shift lights are correctly indicating that. However the tacho is incorrectly showing that there is 1000 rpm left. Edit to add.. Yes the shift lights are adjustable. You can set the shift up point to any value you like. To check what it is set to, press the Stop button then the Up button 3 times. Also keep scrolling Up and check that the number of cylinders is still set to 4. However, setting the shift light point will have no effect on the engine's actual rev limit. It only controls when the lights flash. So that won't explain the misfire / limiting you're getting at 6200.

I think that as they change and update the build process, the fastener packs slowly evolve. As they do they increment the letter on the end. My assembly guide calls for mostly "A" packs, but looking in the parts shop, some of those are no longer available and have been superseded with B or C packs. I find you can often get by with one of the newer packs, but it takes some thought and interpretation on your part in places where bits don't match up. 30S003A is available as a scan here: http://www.fastgrandad.co.uk/page10.html

Hi Ian, Where did you find that model number please? Is it marked on the item that Caterham provided? I'm in a similar position and need to replace my filter which is falling apart. My current filter doesn't have any markings other than "pipercross" on it. Searching online, I cannot see any mention of C6001G (and the call handler at pipercross couldn't either). They do sell a C6001, however the dimensions are very slightly different to mine. Mine is ~50mm high instead of the 40mm quoted for the C6001. The internal height is also different at 35mm instead of 25mm. If anything, my old one is closer to the C6002 but the sizes still dont quite match up. Thanks.

Quaife seem pretty relaxed about what oil spec is needed. It is fairly common for a Quaife ATB to be fitted inside the gearbox case of a front wheel drive car. In these cases Quaife recommend that you use "whatever oil the gearbox manufacturer recommends". Based on that advice, I can't imagine a bit of Lubeguard is going to cause any problems.

No it’s not for a build or piece of work. Just something that that will be very useful generally when working on the car. I've seen the spreadsheet and scans of the fastener packs, however the fastener packs are quite out of date and not a single one of them is referenced from the assembly guide that I follow. That’s why I prefer to match up new washers and bolts with the exact item I take off the car and is why it’s such a PITA when I don’t have the right one. If I had all the fastener pack sheets that are used in the assembly guide then life would be easy. In fact I don’t know why Caterham doesn't include them all at the end of the pdf. They're kind of required because reading one doesn't make sense without the other.

Thought I'd bring this thread back from the dead.... I'm a bit fed up with not having the right nuts and bolts handy, and having to go out to buy individual washers when working on the car. So I'm going to order a big assorted set, probably fom Namrick. Mainly consisting of spring washers and nylock nuts as these seem to be the consumables that I like to replace. Hopefully you guys can help me with the shopping list and suggest anything I've missed: Assorted hex bolts, cap-head screws, nuts, nylocks, washers & spring washers.I have some questions that hopefully you engineers can help with.. Are class 8.8 bolts and 12.9 cap-heads suitable for everything on the car? e.g. Are there any joints that require a higher class of bolt, or is there any danger from over specifying a fastener (I understand that HT bolts have different failure modes that could make them unsuitable for certain applications)? Do I need course thread or fine thread fasteners? Or a selection of each? Namrick sell these assorted packs separately so I need to choose. Lastly, it seems that there aren't many imperial fasteners left on the car. What are peoples thoughts on the ratio of imperial to metric that I should order? Cheers

Thanks Simon. I did consider removing the hub, carrier and ear as one unit, but was reluctant to because it felt like a bit of a bodge. I'm more comfortable with it now that you've suggested it as well. The rear discs will need replacing next year so it makes more sense to do it then. I'm tempted to just put some LS spec oil in for now and forget about it till next year.

Never? What about when the diff isn't "locked" and there is no pressure forcing the plates together? I suppose there could be some latent friction in the clutch pack that would cause the behaviour you describe (is this the definition of preload?), but thats now getting beyond my understanding.

Ok, bit of an update.. I've removed the brake pads and tried again... If I smoothly rotate the wheel at a slow pace, the opposite moves in the same direction and the prop shaft spins. However, if I turn it faster or with more force then the other wheel switches to move in the opposite direction although seemingly a bit slower. The prop shaft also spins while I do this. To me that seems to be the behaviour of an open diff. However I'm not sure of the validity of this test because it is putting the power through the diff the wrong way. It will therefore rely on the diff having some off power / coast ramp angle in order to cause any locking in this configuration. I bet the OEM supplied caterham LSDs have very little to no coast ramp at all. John, from what I've read of the owner’s manual and assembly guides, Caterham seems to suggest putting Lubeguard in everything with a LSD and no mention of the various types. I guess this saves the confusion and Caterham service technicians probably follow a similar practice.

Thanks, I've performed that test many times. When I rotate either wheel, the other does not move at all. However I do have quite a lot of drag, sticky brakes etc that may mess up that test. I'll try later with the brake pads removed. I've just tried it with the car in gear, and in this case the wheels move in opposite directions. Not really sure what that signifies. The car does drive like it has a LSD, and I have the original order form and invoices showing it as a paid for option..

Thanks Giles, Yes I've seen that page before, however I'm not really prepared to dismantle the rear of the car just for a simple service drain and refill. Really I'm looking for some cover-all advice for someone who simply doesn't know what LSD they have. Is it better to use friction modifier additive or not.. I note that the oil you've chosen doesn't have any friction modifiers so is the correct type for your non-plate type LSD - The power of knowledge I guess!

What is the best course of action if I dont know what LSD I have? I know there is lots of content on this in the archives, but it mostly discusses specific types of LSDs. The diff is a ford unit as supplied by caterham in 2008. If I use a LSD specific oil such as LS80w90 does this still need additive? Thanks.

Thanks, thats really helpful

Sounds like yours are quite far gone. However whenever mine get wet and develop those cloudy blotches, a hairdryer and a bit of patience clears them up. Seems like the cloudyness is caused by condensation and the hairdryer evaporates it. Takes a good few minutes though.

Thanks. I have a few of questions.. Am I correct that the objective is to get the hub nut tight enough so there is no play, but no tighter? What is the significance of turning the hub as you tighten the nut? Is it a bad idea to flush the bearings out with degreaser and thoroughly dry before repacking? What do I need to do with the bearings on the rear of the car?

I'm just about to service my car for the first time. There are 2 items that I'm not sure about: Wheel bearing end float - Check and adjust Wheel bearing - RepackThe end float I've got a good idea about but could do with a step-by-step guide just to confirm. I presume the repacking is referring to repacking with fresh grease? But what parts need grease, how do I access them, and what grease is used? I've searched both this site and google and couldn't come up with anything so could do with some pointers. Thanks.

Does anyone have a copy of the caterham service interval/checklist that I can print out and tick off as I do a DIY service? Midway motors gave me one last year after a service so I know they're out there somewhere.

To answer your other question.. Yes it gives a bit of wiggle room when changing pads or bleeding the brakes, but obviously no where near as much as your routing. Still miles better that the fixed copper hoses though.

Sorry I cant tell you a part number. I actually went into Merlin Motorsport at castle combe circuit with the hose and asked for a 45 degree piece that would fit. Pretty sure the ones supplied from caterham are imperial not metric. You can figure it out if you know the hose size and connector thread. See the merlin website, you should find it easily. Its a bit tricky, but I managed it so cannot be that bad. The 45 degree piece doesn't simply screw into the piece you already have. You need to cut off the existing connector are refit the 45 degree one. A dremel or similar will be required for a safe clean cut, and wrap in tape first so the braiding doesn't go everywhere. A problem is that the 45 degree piece doesn't swivel in the orientation you need it to. Once you've tightened up the end at the T piece, it could be pointing in any direction (obviously not good). So, before fitting the elbow connector trial fit it on the car with the T piece end torqued up. Then mark the hose and connector in the orientation you want it. Then follow those markings when fitting the elbow connector. Goodridge do make a double swivel connector that gets around this problem and will possibly be safer, but the price will make your eyes water! HERE

Its still not perfect in my opinion, but it keeps the hose away from the moving part of the watts link and the spring. Yes its close-ish to the base of the damper, but that should all move in unison with the caliper and de-dion anyway so no problem. You can just about see the hose P-clipped onto the de-dion so there is very little room for it to move around. I wrapped some strong tape around the hose - not for protection but to allow me to see if it is rubbing against anything without damaging the braiding. So far there's been no sign of rubbing after 1500 miles.

Hi John, I had this exact problem when I fitted hoses last year. It is a bit of a poor design on Caterham's part, or perhaps both me and you are unnecessarily paranoid about snagging the brake hose. I wasn't happy with the routing at all, so I bought some goodridge 45 degree elbow pieces and fitted those coming out of the caliper, and slightly pointing down towards the de-dion tube. The hose then fits neatly under the front watts link, and cleanly along the de-dion tube. I did have to shorten the hoses slightly as they were then excessively long, but the connectors are designed for this kind of adjustment. I'm sure lots of people have it set up as you do in the pictures and it is probably fine. I just preferred my routing. Photo to follow..

I agree that the list is a bit overkill. Sure, your car will still look brand new after 15 years, but I'd prefer to enjoy it and for it to look brand new when it is new, and not hidden under a messy layer of anti-corrosion gunk. ACF50 down the grot traps is what I use - Jack the front of the car up, spray some in and leave it until it drips out near the rear wheel arches. Underbody I don’t think is a big target for corrosion or stone chips anyway. Rear wing resprays are cheap.

Some blanking grommets are supplied with the aeroscreen kit from caterham. I cant answer the round / oval question, but one would hope the supplied grommets would fit.

I agree with the above. I thought I was an informed buyer, but after owning a Caterham for a little over a year my perception has changed so much. I now understand what Caterham ownership is all about and my usage pattern doesn't match what I expected. Options that I thought were essential I now realise are worthless. And I've also swapped or added many other options that I later discovered I wanted. For your first car, don't worry so much about the 'must haves'. You'll end up chopping and changing to get it to the exact spec you want anyway. With your budget, you'll be waiting many many years before a car comes along that ticks all your boxes. I suppose you need to decide if you happy to sit and wait, or just jump in and make a car your own. Also, because resale values are so strong, you can swap the entire car at a later date when a better spec comes along for very little depreciation loss anyway. One other point on wanting a factory built car.. A 1996 era car, will likely have been stripped and rebuilt (maybe more than once) by now. This makes the fact that it was first built in the factory largely redundant. However I can understand the attraction of a factory car (mine is).