IVA Checklist and IVA trim

[John360s]

Afternoon, just received my 360S kit yesterday so I have questions, so many questions... (I have consumed many blogs, forums etc. while waiting )

Is the V2.0 2015 Caterham IVA checklist the latest version? The build instructions say to get the latest from caterham.com but can't even find this older version on the site.

I have started to dry fit the trim to the front of the car and there seems to be discussion on just the top of the holes, or all the edges, is there a best practice here?

A logical way to secure these test fits would appear to be to just add glue to the back once they are fitted and in place, is there any pitfall to this approach?

Currently using just bubble wrap to protect paintwork and pipe insulation on the chassis members as I feel that cardboard against paint could scratch the paint or am I being to paranoid and need something stronger that thin bubble wrap.

I can't find the pick list on any box, should that concern me??!

And finally (for now) while I wait for my mate to drop over his engine hoist later in the week is there any downfall to starting on the front wishbones other than it making the chassis a bit wider to move about?

Thanks

Edited March 26 by John360s

[Dixa1225]

You only need to trim the top part of the aperture. Steering rack hole is not required. 

[Ainsley]

I'm mid build on mine, things I have realised are:

The build blogs are great, but some are a few years old, this resulted in me following what they did only to undo it once I learned it was out of date.  Seems small things have changed frequently. 

Fitting the earth strap from the engine mount to the engine block was one example of that.  Now not necessary.

Also, in one blog picture showing the adjustable drivers seat runner, it was not fitted correctly, so I have put my seats in / out / in / out a few times.  Still not got it right.

One picture of the engine cooling plumbing I followed is different to the actual factory built cars, so I've redone mine twice now.

Also, don't rush anything.  I got carried away one night and cut a hose too short, that cost me £67, ouch.

If it doesn't seem right, it probably isn't.

The best thing that's helping me with the build is looking at a new factory built car.  Luckily for me my mate in the village has just picked up a 1yr old 420R, like mine.  I've just spent ages looking at the plumbing and wiring on his so I can copy it on my build.

If you can get to look at a similar car that's newish, do so.

The forum is a great help as well, keep posting up your questions.

My car is bubble wrapped, fine for me, but I'm very careful and methodical with stuff.  I also have a large garage, so no worry about working close to the car.  Only when drilling for rivet removal did I use cardboard for extra protection.

Having your car on movable jacks and a movable engine hoist is great.

I IVA trimmed the whole front of my car as it just looked more finished.  Only to realise once all the suspension is in place you really don't see it.  For the IVA trim I used dabs of super glue on the back, simple and easy.  I initially tired some black trim glue, but it was very messy so gave up.

Putting the engine in is a tight fit.  Took me on the hoist, one guiding the engine, two underneath guiding the gearbox.  It has to go in at a changing angle of attack.  Use garden hose on the chassis rails, its thin enough to allow fitment.  Pipe lagging is too thick.  You don't need a jig to alter the angle of the lift, just some mates and a slow approach.

I took off all the ancillaries, but its still millimetre tight.

I found the diff easy, did it on my own.  I took the cradle off to measure the necessary spacer washers and used a jack and hoist through the removed boot floor. 

Some jobs are fiddley, some are easy.  Really depends on your capacity for doing mechanical / practical things and not expecting to do it without a bit of adjustment somewhere along the way.  The instructions are a guide, not a complete how to.

I didn't bother checking for missing bits, just emailed Caterham and they posted them out to me in a few days.  Some of the bits were in different boxes to where I expected.  I also spent 40mins looking for my missing boot carpet, turned the garage upside down, even looked in the bins in case I chucked it.  Only to realise later the 420R only has the boot floor carpet, not the side bits 🙂

You are welcome to come and see my build if it helps.

But basically if you put it together you can take it apart if you do it wrong.  Just measure twice and cut once.  Oh, and I must have put my seats in 4 times and I'm still adjusting the holes for the bolts to fit.  Don't rush it, enjoy it.  Even the frustrating bits.

Edited March 26 by Ainsley

[Ainsley]

Oh, I also glued the tunnel carpet in but forgot to fit the grommet over the hole first, so that got done twice.

I fitted the front mudguard stays backwards as well.  

[Jonathan Kay]

1 hour ago, John360s said:

Afternoon, just received my 360S kit yesterday so I have questions, so many questions... (I have consumed many blogs, forums etc. while waiting )

Would you like the old text-rich Assembly Guide?

And have you found the register of equipment for loan?

Jonathan

[Ainsley]

Could you send me the text rich guide please, it may help in stopping me cutting off the wrong bits of pipe 🙂

[John360s]

@Jonathan Kay yes please to the old manual, and no I hadn't seen the loan list, thank you very much!

[Graham Hutton]

Enjoy your build John. It is a pleasure. I also trimmed the full length of all the holes through the chassis skin as I think it looks better (personal opinion) It took a bit of cutting of the back section of the trim to get it past the tight bits. I also found that the holes in the skin for the steering rack were not quite in the right place and rubbed the rubber boots. Easy to grind a bit of the ally skin with the dremmel but worth checking before putting the trim on. Top tip is to WD40 the grinding stone otherwise the soft aluminium chokes it quickly.

In terms of cardboard protection, I put some on the inside faces of the start of the transmission tunnel to help when sliding the gearbox down on engine install day. I have seen a few people who have torn the tunnel insulation and this helped avoid that mistake.......I made plenty of others though.

No downside to sorting the front wishbones early except the wing stays will keep catching your legs!

Have fun

[AlastairA]

Hi John,

Welcome! Hope you enjoy your build.

To your final question - I decided to fit the engine first, followed by the front suspension - a method pioneered by Chris Collins (I believe). My reasoning was simply that fitting the engine is by far (in my opinion) the riskiest operation of the whole build. With 180kg of engine weight suspended by a hoist on wheels, I wanted to limit the damage if anything went wrong. Secondly, the ability to move around the chassis and get clear visibility of the engine, bell housing, gearbox clearances to the chassis rails is important - so again my thinking was not to obscure any sight line with other components fitted before the engine went in. Either way is possible, of course - it's just personal preference!

Best of luck.

[Britspud]

Hi John....congrats, the start of the excitement...I'm still building my 360R and it's amazing. Loving it. 

You're asking all the same questions I did 😉 And I also feared big steps like installing the engine (which turned out to be not too big a deal for me) and fitting the Diff (which was difficult/frustrating). Truth is once the engine and diff are in, most of the rest can be done by one person on their own. And that meant, for me anyway, that the progress was swift. I'm now probably about 10 sessions away from being ready for PBC...and it'll be a sad moment when I don't have anything left to do 😉

My biggest tip for new builders is...don't be impatient and make sure everything is masked up with cardboard if you're working with heavy metal things near paintwork. It didn't damage my paint having cardboard on it...but I did scratch the rear paint around the boot when fitting the roll bar because I didn't bother masking it all. I was so angry with myself! I also sheared a bolt in the dedion tube when attaching the ears... a moment of carelessness/distraction and not wanting to wait for a tap to clean the thread first. Stupid!!

Enjoy it 🙂 

Edited March 26 by Britspud

[Mike-360R]

As others have said above - enjoy your build. I built my 360R with my father 3 years ago and ultimately enjoyed every moment - even the occasional frustrating elements and the seemingly endless searching in cardboard boxes for bits and, for me, time spent searching for that tool you only used 20 minutes ago.....

I too fitted the IVA trim around the entire apertures as I thought it looked better than just the top half of the holes (which is the IVA requirement). No need to put trim round the holes for the steering rack but you do need to check the rubber boots don't come in to contact with the holes during movement - mine were fine - just. With regard to the IVA trim there is an available smaller size rubber that can be used for the trim which I have seen on factory cars which may be easier to fit than the trim I was supplied with - worth checking before gluing.

I fitted the suspension first but that's because I started in the order from the manual until I found Chris Collins 420R Build Blog online. In hindsight I don't think having the suspension really impeded the engine / gearbox fir but the headlights were a bit in the way so I'd leave those until later.

I used pipe-lagging for the chassis tubes - I agree it's ideally too thick at times - I like the sound of the house-pipe method but I managed in the end. I used old carpet underlay to protect the bodywork.

For me, fitting the diff was the most tricky - ensuring enough spacers were added and ensuring everything lined up properly. I didn't want my build to be a simple 'out of the box and bolt it on affair'. While most of the kit is that I had several fabrication moments and made a few little adjustments along the way.

Fit the rear roll-bar earlier than it says in the Ikea-style manual - I think before the rear suspension otherwise you may have some work to undo.

Take your time and enjoy. The journey to the completed car with my father was as important to me as having fun in it once complete.

Happy to help answer any questions you have.

 

 

 

 

[prisoner7]

Ainsley - I just sent you the IVA checklist.Enjoy.

[Ainsley]

Thanks 🙂

[Jonathan Kay]

22 hours ago, John360s said:

@Jonathan Kay yes please to the old manual, and no I hadn't seen the loan list, thank you very much!

Please check your Private Message inbox.

Jonathan

[CAT170]

The best tip I received was from Dan Randall who now works for HWM Caterham. Buy a pair of side cutters to ensure you cut each and every Tyrap flush so you won’t cut yourself and more importantly perhaps, neither will the IVA tester. 

[Brownmonster]

On 26/03/2024 at 20:57, prisoner7 said:

Ainsley - I just sent you the IVA checklist.Enjoy.

Presumably this is the January 2016 version from the caterham website? I cannot find a newer version anywhere else.

On 26/03/2024 at 13:24, Dixa1225 said:

You only need to trim the top part of the aperture. Steering rack hole is not required. 

Presumably the exhaust manifold exit doesn't need to be trimmed either? Tiggers build has it un trimmed:

Also, does the lower front suspension aperture need to be trimmed as well? I'm seeing some people trimming it all, and some people trimming a selection! It would be nice to know the exact ones required!

Personally I want to trim just the top two holes, and leave the steering rack, lower wishbone aperture and exhaust aperture untrimmed, will this be OK?

Edited April 25 by Brownmonster

[Ainsley]

I believe you only need to trim the top part of the top holes, some also had a problem with the steering gaiter interfering with the trim.

I trimmed all the holes as it looked more complete and I didn't have any interference issues with the steering gaiter / trim.  Its easy to just trim everything when you are at the build stage.  That seems more efficient than realising later you should have trimmed a bit, plus I thought it looked more complete.

I also trimmed the leading and trailing edge of the Cat guard, but the IVA check list I had only required leading edge to be trimmed. 

However once the IVA test is done those bits of trim, along with the one on the dash, will come off.  Also the Cat will come off once I find a Cat replacement pipe.

[Brownmonster]

1 hour ago, Ainsley said:

I believe you only need to trim the top part of the top holes, some also had a problem with the steering gaiter interfering with the trim.

I trimmed all the holes as it looked more complete and I didn't have any interference issues with the steering gaiter / trim.  Its easy to just trim everything when you are at the build stage.  That seems more efficient than realising later you should have trimmed a bit, plus I thought it looked more complete.

I also trimmed the leading and trailing edge of the Cat guard, but the IVA check list I had only required leading edge to be trimmed. 

However once the IVA test is done those bits of trim, along with the one on the dash, will come off.  Also the Cat will come off once I find a Cat replacement pipe.

For sure trimming an entire hole does look better than just the top half of the hole, and I too think trimming the lot looks better and more complete too. I actually don't mind the rubber trim either, I think it finishes it off a bit nicer as some of the paint work on those holes is not perfect when you get up close. (Obviously each to their own here!)

Does that mean you also did the low bit where the  exhaust manifold exits the chassis?

I'm on the fence about the scuttle (dash) trim at the moment, did you glue it or silicone it to allow for easy removal?

Ste

 

[Ainsley]

I didn't do the exhaust hole, it would probably melt.

For the scuttle / dash trim I put some electrical tape on first then just squashed the trim on top.  It doesn't need gluing on, and it should just pull off cleanly as the electrical tape will add some slippage and avoid any paint damage.  I also didn't glue it on the Cat cover, it basically self grips.

The only bit that needed some attention is fitting it to the air box.  I stuck it in boiling water first to soften it up enough to get the tight radius.  But it still fell off, so I glued it on. But then its only going to be there for a short while, I'm planning on throttle bodies later on.

[Brownmonster]

1 hour ago, Ainsley said:

I didn't do the exhaust hole, it would probably melt.

Yeah I thought as much too.

 

1 hour ago, Ainsley said:

For the scuttle / dash trim I put some electrical tape on first then just squashed the trim on top.  It doesn't need gluing on, and it should just pull off cleanly as the electrical tape will add some slippage and avoid any paint damage.  I also didn't glue it on the Cat cover, it basically self grips.

Also not a bad idea, I may follow suit as I can't work out if it like the trim on or off the scuttle at the moment, this way I have options!

[Brownmonster]

How much of this rubber trim is usually left over, I'm a bit of a perfectionist and want to redo one of mine now! Will I have more than enough?

[Ainsley]

Meters of the stuff.  You wont run out, if you do you can have some of mine.

[Brownmonster]

Just now, Ainsley said:

Meters of the stuff.  You wont run out, if you do you can have some of mine.

Perfect, thanks 🙂

[Brownmonster]

Definitely check the bolts will fit, I'm going to have to snip this part of the trim out after pushing the chasis in enough to let me get the bolt in! I think someone in another thread said you had to get biblical with the chassis to get it in! 

 

BTW I have a cardboard template ready to go on top and protect it with masking tape, but just testing things out before I use the tools!

Also the Iva trim looks really nice with the red and black theme I have going on, I guess some cars it won't suit though! 

Edited April 25 by Brownmonster

[Ainsley]

Its tight for sure.  Basically I forced the body work in, kept the nut in one position and only rotated the bolt.  I had to use an open spanner on the nut and a socket on the bolt head.  Its all possible, but required some manual persuasion.

The black trim does look good finishing off the open lines on the red body for sure.