Mike-360R

Great posts and options in this thread. BigCol, I have purchased a Brodit holder for the iPhone 8 but also ordered a Quadlock wall mount (to stick to the 3D-printed bracket) and a corresponding case for the iPhone 8. I may also get a Quadlock case for my other half's iPhone 13 to give more easily switchable options. I'll pick a combination and try it out on the Taffia run in a couple of weeks.

Following on from this thread. I have the 3D-printed bracket (inc spacer) for my S3 but haven't yet got a phone holder to attach to it. Can anyone recommend a good solid phone holder for the bracket that will suit an iPhone-8, iPhone 13 or both? Many thanks. Mike.

Hi Ainsley. I had the same 2 wires left during my 360R build. Caterham informed me they were used for different Caterham models containing the stack-dash and were not required for my installation. As you have suggested they are likely to be for other sensors for additional info fed to the stack-dash configuration. Glad to hear the build is going well.

As others have said above - enjoy your build. I built my 360R with my father 3 years ago and ultimately enjoyed every moment - even the occasional frustrating elements and the seemingly endless searching in cardboard boxes for bits and, for me, time spent searching for that tool you only used 20 minutes ago..... I too fitted the IVA trim around the entire apertures as I thought it looked better than just the top half of the holes (which is the IVA requirement). No need to put trim round the holes for the steering rack but you do need to check the rubber boots don't come in to contact with the holes during movement - mine were fine - just. With regard to the IVA trim there is an available smaller size rubber that can be used for the trim which I have seen on factory cars which may be easier to fit than the trim I was supplied with - worth checking before gluing. I fitted the suspension first but that's because I started in the order from the manual until I found Chris Collins 420R Build Blog online. In hindsight I don't think having the suspension really impeded the engine / gearbox fir but the headlights were a bit in the way so I'd leave those until later. I used pipe-lagging for the chassis tubes - I agree it's ideally too thick at times - I like the sound of the house-pipe method but I managed in the end. I used old carpet underlay to protect the bodywork. For me, fitting the diff was the most tricky - ensuring enough spacers were added and ensuring everything lined up properly. I didn't want my build to be a simple 'out of the box and bolt it on affair'. While most of the kit is that I had several fabrication moments and made a few little adjustments along the way. Fit the rear roll-bar earlier than it says in the Ikea-style manual - I think before the rear suspension otherwise you may have some work to undo. Take your time and enjoy. The journey to the completed car with my father was as important to me as having fun in it once complete. Happy to help answer any questions you have.

So, I am starting to gather the bits and pieces I need to carry out a first full service on my car over the winter and spoke to RRT about purchasing a litre of their diff oil for my Titan LSD. Unfortunately, since a packaging update of their product they have had to cease shipping it out to customers due to consistent leakages in transit. I would still like to get hold of some but Sevenoaks is a bit far to go for me so I can either wait until RRT sort out their packaging issues or see if anyone here has an unused litre they no longer need that I could buy from them including postage costs?

Ah yes, Caterham Gatwick also removed the headlight flasher switch and cable-tied it up behind the dashboard which I later replaced post IVA. I believe Caterham went through a period where cars were not passing IVA due to the operation of the flasher switch causing slight issues with dimming of other lights (possibly brake or side lights). As a headlight flasher switch is not an IVA or MoT requirement it is a safer bet not to have it in the dash. I think the issue is less of a problem with LEDs but why take the chance. When my car went through IVA in April 2022 I had the standard headlight units which I later upgraded to LEDs post-test.

As per #2, Caterham Gawick lent me a collapsible steering column / wheel at PBC which I changed to my quick-release option post IVA. They also labelled all the switches (the ones without a symbol) during PBC although I had planned on doing this myself before taking the car to iVA. For the IVA, yes - definitely ensure the brakes are bedded in before the test and ensure the engine is warm enough so that the emissions are optimally controlled by the ECU. Everything went well on my IVA but the emissions were very close to the mark and needed a second attempt on the day. This was mainly because I took my car to the IVA on a trailer and only had a few laps of the test centre to warm everything up prior to the test. IVA passed at the first attempt though.

Thanks #28, #29. I'll stick to the 85Nm and clean up the threads when the wheels are off next.

Just 're-opening' this thread having searched for wheel nut torque settings after a conversation with a few members at the Donnington track day this week. All of us had the 15" Orcus alloys on relatively new cars - three Duratec and one Sigma. The latest Caterham build manual for Duratec (Edition 2.0 - page 187) states the wheel nuts should be torqued to 85Nm. However, the rest of the guys at the track torqued theirs to 75Nm (which I have also seen mentioned in this thread). Just wondering what the latest general consensus / advice is as it may appear I am over-torquing mine. For info, I use copper-slip grease on the threads.

I fitted the rear exit exhaust as part of my home build a couple of years ago and seem to remember having to trim the mounts slightly down one edge to ensure they fitted properly and squarely without fouling anything. Will take a pic or two and post them here if it helps - although mine will be similar to the pics already posted.

Yes, my 360R home build has exactly the same noises as mentioned above- diff whine from 50 to 60ish and clonking from what sounds like somewhere around the diff / back of the gearbox / prop shaft. I would say the noises have probably got slighlty more frequent and louder the more I've driven it - not too noticeable post IVA but 1,400 miles in an definitely a bit worse. Clonking seems to be in the lower gears as previously described - mostly when not under load. Checked the diff bolts and carrier bolts just today following advice from GulfSeven at the track day on Monday. While access was difficult to check the actual torque setting from within the boot, a visual inspection of the paint marks on all bolts gave me confidence none of the bolts have started to unwind. However, I will check everything over once the car is on axle stands at the end of the month for a full fluid change and service.

Hi Andrew. Excellent post on your ongoing investigations, issues encountered and your 'Eureka' resolution. Sounds like you've had a busy and 'testing' week. Don't worry about the timelines for bringing your solution to production - really great to hear you've found a solution that works for all. I hope you enjoy your well-earned two week break.

#43 - I totally agree. No need to feel bad at all Andrew. I'm really impressed how quick you've designed and progressed V2 of your product. Good luck with the testing.

Wow Andrew - great response and swift analysis for a potential solution to the more modern gauges. Unfortunately I won't be with my car for a couple of weeks - just before the Brooklands event. If you're struggling for test gauges at that time I will be able to take mine out and drop it over to you on Monday 7th Aug - I think you may be East Mids based. I'm happy to keep the order you have already sent and will swap it over once your tested new solution is ready.

Hi Andrew, Many thanks for your prompt investigation into the compatibility with the (newer?) gauges. I echo #32 response. I can ask my father to return the unit to you or alternatively I will be at the Club's 40th Anniversary event at Brooklands in a couple of weeks and can hand it over then (if you are attending) or I can sell it on to another interested member at the event.

#28 Hi Andrew. Yes, I elected to have the unit posted to my father (Derek) in Hereford. I've received an email last night from eBay confirming the item had been posted. Many thanks. The recent posts about the gauge connectors got me thinking about mine which also have the 270 deg sweep.

No major hurry Andrew. I've arranged for the unit to be delivered to where my Caterham is (Hereford) and not where I am (Leicester). I won't be with the car for a couple of weeks so by all means ship others first.

Great post, excellent design and calibration information. Thank you for taking the time to share. I have just ordered a pre-built unit. I was tempted by the kit and doing it myself but it may be a while before I'd get time to do it. Gauge Magic Bi-Colour LED looks to be out of stock at the link provided so I'll check back in on that in future. Thanks again.

Sounds like you've found what you are looking for. A web-site I've used before is Accu - not always the cheapest but if you're after marine grade / stainless steel they do a fairly good range.

Saturday evening 1st July - Waitrose / Odeon car park - Looked great. 'M1 ...' or 'X1 ...' number plate I think?

I fitted that spacer during my kit build in 2020 as part of the engine / gearbox installation. I have a 360R with Mazda 5-speed gearbox and I've not noticed any transmission whine when feathering the throttle. I'm also considering changing the diff oil to the alternative spec designed to quieten my Titan LSD down a bit - will be doing that at next service.

I upgraded the rear lights to the new Caterham ones on my 2020 kit-build. I decided to upgrade them having already fitted the original 'trailer lights' as part of my build but switched them out while the car was high up on it's stands prior to PBC and IVA. I used the perviously mentioned video on the CC web-site as my guide. I didn't need to remove the boot floor and managed to tidy the loom up from underneath (I am very particular when it comes to neatly and safely securing the wiring to the car). No major issues as far as I can remember. I think I may have needed to slightly change one of the mounting hole positions for the number plate / reverse light unit to ensure it was mounted dead-centre and I think I converted one of the earth connections to an econoseal plug but other than that it was a straightforward upgrade.

Many thanks for the prompt response and confirmation. I did wonder about that bolt but figured it might affect the general safety of the roll-bar fixing. Also, it seemed to me as if the hole in the eyelet was a little on the large side for it to fit securely under the bolt head. I'll give it a go.

I have recently purchased a half-hood from Sevens and Classics for my S3 with track-day roll-bar and could do with some advice on how to attach the straps to the car. The fitting of the hood itself is obviously very straightforward but as this is a retro-fit to my kit-build I wondered if those with experience with these hoods (or those that had the option included when purchasing a complete car from Caterham) could let me know how / where the half-hood straps secure to the car itself. There are four straps, two that line-up and fit down the rear-ward roll-bar elements - these I have wrapped around the full-hood bars and seem to pull the hood nicely in this direction - is this the correct way to fit these straps? (see pic below - apologies, I can't get he image to display the right way round....). It does mean I will have to undo them completely if I want to transfer between the half-hood and full-hood at any time? The main question though is with the small straps that secure the rear quarters of the hood to the car down the sides. The straps on the hood I received seem very short and it doesn't seem obvious, at this length how they can reach any form of securing point on the car. These straps also contain an eyelet at the end. The only potential place I can see for attaching these to the car is to undo the small bolt connecting the full-hood frame to the chassis, inserting the strap between the hood-bar and the chassis (using the eyelet) and re-fixing the frame with the securing bolt. Is this correct or is there an alternative / better way? Any help / advice would be appreciated (apologies for the images being the wrong way round - no apparent way of rotating them).

Many thanks for your prompt assistance and responses - much appreciated.