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Grot trap, what do do?


Gridgway

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I taped up about 2" above the bottom rails and sprayed Dinitrol, along them and sprayed in the rot trap areas using a pipe connected to the spray can. I then added additional silver tape where the side panels meet the foot wells.

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The grot traps are an area where corrosion occurs, but is not the only one, but road salt gets everywhere, places you can't clean or protect.  If you want long chassis life down drive until the salt has gone (2 weeks after they stop and only if there has been good rain fall to wash it off), if no drive and enjoy the car.   Driving in salt mean your enjoying the car twice as much but the chassis will last 1/2 as long.  Salt also damages all the zinc surfaces of the fastners and bare aluminium (engine gearbox fuel tank etc).  Personally I hate the damage salt does so I SORN. 
 

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  • Leadership Team

These photos will give some idea of how much crud enters the chassis sides via the opening at the front, and just how far it can travel back. The muck will then hold moisture, and if there's salt content as well the resulting corrosion can be bad.  I took these photos when I stripped the interior panels out of my car at 8 years old:

17C7B10A-ACF3-49BF-BC95-B3815C229FF0.jpeg.c44c0690ca88bffa0fb7ab50852813c8.jpeg
 


79C851E5-98F4-4A06-9746-FC0A33C71D13.jpeg.02e68be01c897e83ed13bff5c5f7302e.jpeg
 

Stu.

 

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I  jack the front of the car up every 2 years and spray warm cavity wax into the grot trap. Leave for a day or two until it oozes out of the rear of the chassis. I use Dinitrol 3125 and a Pro Wax  kit from rust busters,( which has sadly doubled in price in the last few years).

I do not use my car in the winter as I have a Morris van, 2cv and Mazda bongo that are used all year round. They are all rusty piles of carp now.....

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Thanks all.  Somehow the wording on my actual post didn't appear after posting on my phone.  Is that a known forum problem.

Anyhow, you all understood the question!

Regarding trying to seal the area, I'm not convinced that's at all easy, especially with the driver's side and the longer footwell.

Getting it nice and clean and spraying dinitrol in sounds good.  However, getting it nice and clean doesn't sound easy.  Could use solvent like brake cleaner and an air line (with suitable face proection!).  Or maybe the pressure washer, although not keen on doing that with the car in the garage.

I know some of the powder coat has come off the square tube as it came out when I cleaned the crud out.  What does dinitrol do when it encounters metal with surface rust?  Does it just cover it and stop further rusting or does it bond to it like POR15?

You can't really spray POR15 in there without making a horrid mess.  Maybe it's mask-able?

Maybe I should just clean as best as I can, spray some dinitrol in and not worry too much.  It won't go out in the salt in my ownership!

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#20, Benton,

"you'll probably end up with a lot of water going into the cockpit and most likely ending up under the seats etc."

So the same as a typical blat in perverse British weather! 

Put the hood on, out comes the sun.  Take the hood off, down comes the rain. *banghead*

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Thanks all, I have decided that what I will do is give the area a good clean and then spray some dinitrol in using their spray can plus extension hose idea.  I'm not going to use the pressure washer as I suspect that will stay wet and ruin the dinitrol application  - or even worse, seal water in!

I may well use some brake cleaner for a final wash out as that can dry easily.

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