Check the radiator is square and flat before fitting. The radtecs don't like being stressed on the mounts and ideally need to be mounted with soft antivbration mounts
there will be whine in 4th as it’s direct drive through the gearbox. If the diff is quiet for the first 6 or so miles then that because it hasn’t yet heated up and expanded, altering the clearances on the diff internals . As from the mounting bushes being the cause
it’s a scam, don’t bother trying to work it out. His account is where your money will go, your garage is not where his make believe car will go ... simples
I can’t see any sealant being a long term fix, no doubt it will fail at the most inoportune moment . I would replace with a decent unit like a bosch or such like .
Auto tensioners are usually disrupted on the surface of the plastic roller, I always linish these flat and polish with P1200 paper to avoid uneven stress on the belt. Is the wisdom still to change to a manual tensioner ?. Or is the auto Ok with linished roller ?. thanks
it’s pointless commenting, giving ones opinion, feedback or any such like. Just be done with it and let it evolve as anyone sees fit. you will only be met with all the pc comments from the modern management phrase book and how it will be considered and discussed. Then it will get kicked into the long grass for the next meeting etc etc and so it goes around
I once twisted my prop, Chards in Bristol refurbed the prop, replaced the tube and UJ's with uprated items and ballanced. All for a very reasonable sum. http://www.prop-shaft.com/ dj