Flywheel swap with engine still in car ?

[GPBox]

Hi all, my winter project is to fit a lite weight flywheel to my K-series 1600.

 

I've had the engine/gearbox out before, but am wondering if its feasible to do the FW swap by only taking the gearbox out ?....sounds very tight..but wondered if there is experiecen of this out there

 

cheers Graham

[Tony Whitley]

I've changed the CRB without taking the engine out but there's no way you would get the flywheel out.

[Wrightpayne]

Only problem is you have to take the engine out to remove the gearbox.

Engine out I'm afraid but well worth the upgrade. 

Are you considering changing anything else whilst you have it apart - CRB as a minimum?

Ian

 

[OliverSedlacek]

Torqueing the flywheel bolts correctly is critical, and I would challenge anyone to do it reliably in situ.

[Wrightpayne]

Oliver has a very good point - you'd want it well held when you're hanging off the end of the torque wrench.

The bolts are 13mm though a 6 sided 1/2" AF fits nice and snug. Forget where I read this - might have been Oilyhands. I got two impact sockets especially for the job (13 and 1/2").

Ian

[paul richards]

Engine out. Even if there was room it would be too fiddly and no chance of aligning the clutch plate. 

[Duckpit]

Its taken me an afternoon to take my engine and box out and another afternoon to put it back

[GPBox]

thanks for the f/b all !...does anyone have an engine hoist in the Wilts/Oxon area I can 'borrow' sometime over the winter ?...cheers Graham

[Jonathan Kay]

Nearest in the equipment register are Weybridge and Gosport. Everyone's recommending using a balance beam nowadays.

Jonathan

[CharlesElliott]

For the record, I don't recommend a balance beam, waste of time and adds height to the crane jib.

You can borrow mine (Weybridge) but I'm not that close.

[Englishmaninwales]

Beware the standard Rover flywheel bolts are easily damaged during removal (guess how I know!) so use the correct size impact socket along with a Rover flywheel locking tool (on eBay for not a lot) for both undoing and refitting. On refitting ensure the mating faces are clean, then use the old bolts initially to seat the flywheel and then replace with new bolts and torque up correctly. 

[Mechanical Moz]

People have their own preference about whether it's easier to remove the engine and box together and separate out of the car or just remove the engine and leave the gearbox in.  Personally I'd leave the gearbox in.

Another thing to be aware of is the bolts that hold the clutch cover to the flywheel may not fit.  At least some of the Rover ones are an M7 flange head, which is what Caterham will supply as replacements.  I fitted a TTV flywheel which had holes tapped to M8, used M8 socket heads and a washer instead.

New flywheel to crank bolts should come with patchlock on them but if not you need a drop or two of Loctite 243 or thread sealant on them to stop oil weeping out.

It's a good upgrade but be prepared for the odd embarrassing stall until you get used to it. 

[Tony Whitley]

"Crankshaft locking tool" 

[Ray Pearce]

I am currently the "custodian" of Grubbster's hoist which comes complete with a load leveler.

Is Uckfield too far?
 

[elie boone]

I have never done this but If you can change a CRB in situ you can change the flywheel in situ. you just have to unbolt the pressure plate and put it in the bellhousing, one can align the clutch plate by taking a measurement on the outside relative to the pressure plate.

[Wrightpayne]

I think there is a big difference between slipping in a bearing Vs torquing up flywheel bolts and aligning a clutch. I'm comfortable on the spanners and have deviated from the haynes manual to save time in the past (on various cars) but wouldnt attempt this in situ on a seven.

Ian

[elie boone]

I've did it on a MAN truck but that was a 2 man job as the flywheel is a tad heavier.