chris956 Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 "Delighted to hear that it's running well again. I'd agree that the TPS looks pretty cheaply constructed, but I suspect it's the inherent vibration that kills it. I've had several Mondeos over the years and never had a TPS problem with them. Note that CC's uprated TPS subloom has more durable and flexible wiring but the TPS itself is the same. Re covering part of the rad, I don't (although several do, I believe), but I do cover the oil cooler with kitchen foil. JV" That's a bit of a con then if the actual TPS is the same on the race sub loom.... That's a big mark up for 3 short lengths of silicon wiring and an econoseal at the end. Good point about tin foil over the oil cooler. Will do that and see how the temp goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bio Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 Great news...Had the same this year but mine is a VX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted November 6, 2014 Share Posted November 6, 2014 "That's a bit of a con then if the actual TPS is the same on the race sub loom... That's a big mark up for 3 short lengths of silicon wiring and an econoseal at the end."I think CC's sole aim was to develop a solution to the problem of fractured TPS wiring, especially on the race cars. When mine first fractured, I knocked up a temporary home-made sub-loom using much heavier gauge wiring (see http://s405.photobucket.com/user/trog65/media/TPS/Home-maseTPSsubloom_connectors_zpsa615d495.jpg.html). Not particularly pretty, but it did the job. In the end I plumped for CC's pukka silicone-sheathed version. It's given no trouble so far. If you're handy with a soldering iron, have some silicone-covered wire and can crimp Econoseals, you could make your own. For durability, fill the "socket" where the three wires attach to the TPS male terminals with a potting resin (something like this: http://solutions.3m.co.uk/wps/portal/3M/en_GB/ElectricalMkts/ElectricalSupplies/products/cable-jointing-resins/scotchcast-470w-standard-resin/).JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris956 Posted November 6, 2014 Author Share Posted November 6, 2014 Cheers JV .... I will look into that. I`ve got all the stuff so will probably knock one up for the spares box that started small and is getting larger by the week !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris956 Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 Well that didnt last long did it ....... I cant be putting a new TPS on it everytime I drive the friggin thing .... Drove it to Bedfored yesterday in probably the worst conditions I have ever driven on a motorway for 2 hours of it back firing , farting , jerking and giving me heart failure thinking it was going to die on me and being bullied by HGV`s that have no fear of aqua planing. Did the trackday at Bedford and the car ran fine but probably because it was mostly WOT for the full day.... not much levelling off on the throttle. You are either on it or on the brakes !........ and then the same wonderful journey all the way home but this time worse throttle response and terrible fuel economy along with black smoke which introduced the new game of ...... will I run out of petrol !! Anyway , nursed it home and nothing looks a mis, all connections fine including the new TPS. No water to be seen ( which is what I suspected on the way up there given the sheer quantity both on the road surface and falling from the sky ) So , it seems back to square 1 and this time it will be plugged into the laptop whilst trying to replicate the fault...... bloody electrical faults are always a PITA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Slotter Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 When my Duratec did this CC reloaded the map on the ECU once they'd replaced the TPS (I'd given up trying to fix it myself and my car need the diff update). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 If the problem only occurs when the engine is warm, and the issue disappears at full throttle then I'd be looking very closely at the lambda sensor.Lambda sensor only comes into play once the engine is up to temp and then only when running at constant to low throttle openings. The theory is that at wide open throttle you're not concerned with fuel economy so the ECU ignores the lambda reading.When the problem occurs, does it seem like the engine is being under or over-fuelled? Sounds like over-fuelling from the way you've described it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Try unplugging connector to lambda ... see 2nd post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris956 Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 SM25T - I did as you suggested in 2nd post thanks but made no difference at that time. Things have moved on a bit and with the new TPS it cured the problem for a short while. I am about to pop out and try the lambda disconnect again to try an elliminate it again or not , as the case maybe.Interesting about the map needing reloading ??? What would cause that ? Some weird electrical gremlin ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris956 Posted November 19, 2014 Author Share Posted November 19, 2014 Well , dont you love an intermittant fault - Drove it today in the lovely sunshine and no problem whatsoever. Disconnected the lambda and made zero difference. Could not replicate the lumpy running... typical During connector check found that the block connector under the engine cover had been touching the cover and clearly been rubbing - maybe the high frequency vibration is causing an issue and so has been isolated by wrapping the block connector in high density foam. This was the only thing that had been changed by me from the lumpy runing to today and no problem.Main Earth strap to the engine mount has been moved away from the cam sensor and put on the other side as it "can" become a problem with the electrical signals causing interference.Later this week the engine map will be reloaded into the ecu as a precaution and belt and braces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prangerman Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 ChrisGlad to hear that the problem seems to have been sorted. Fingers crossed.Having had rough running and hesitation on my K series earlier this year, various fiddles seem to have cleared up the problem. I just don't which change or combination of changes made the difference. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris956 Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Yep...know what you mean ..... ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damo V Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Hi Chris, did you resolve this as I had the exact same problem today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomiam Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I also have this problem and would be very interested to know if you fixed it. My r400d has been at Williams automobiles for a number of weeks trying to track down this issue. Exact same symptoms and have so far replaced the tps, lambda sensor and alternator. Low rpm =incredibly bad running. It just about idles and is all but undriveable at less than 4 or 5k rpm but if you put your foot flat to the floor then engine opens up and it clears. R400d dry sump. Roller barrel throttle bodies. Kept in garage. Have also ruled out bad earth. Problem started about a month ago. Is it possible to be the ecu? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diggerman Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 My money on the lambda sensor .....Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomiam Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Yep it certainly seems that way. We replaced the lambda sensor right at the start when this problem occured but it didnt fix it. The logical thinking, now that pretty much every other option has been explored.. is that the new lambda sensor I put in is a duff one or failed near instantly. Current thread linked in case someone else has the same: http://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/r400-d-electrical-problem-i-think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianmurray325hotmail.com Posted December 8, 2015 Share Posted December 8, 2015 i got the strangest of rough running scenarios with my 210hp MZR (Omex ECU,Jenvey TBs etc), It turned out to be a frayed throttle cable that was sticking slightly although all the throttle butterflies appeared to be synchronized and functioning ok on visual inspection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomiam Posted December 10, 2015 Share Posted December 10, 2015 With mine, it was the lambda sensor. Id replaced it once already, but the one I replaced it with was faulty. http://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/r400-d-electrical-problem-i-thinkDont know if that thread will help at all. Symptoms:- Running rough on part throttle. WOT was fine. Starting it up it would run "lumpy" for a bit before eventually stalling at about 70 deg C on the coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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