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Freestyle new avo shocks


Fred

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I Have just fitted a set of freestyle avo shocks to a new R400 thought you might want,

to see what they look like not tested yet due to weather ect.this is the new light aluminium type .

PAGE NO LONGER ON LINE 22/1/ 03

 

 

 

Edited by - fred on 4 Jan 2003 16:18:25

 

Edited by - FRED on 22 Jan 2003 22:45:10

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1 they can only be fitted one way you cannot invert .adjust valve to bottom.

2 they are fully extended in the pictures. once ride hight is adjusted they will be up 2in on thread.

on the rear ones.

 

Edited by - fred on 5 Jan 2003 13:31:13

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V7 There is 90/93 mm of rod exposed with the full weight of car on ,you have 22mm of bump stop

open and closed measurements below

front=-open15in- closed10in- stroke 5in.

rear= open18in -closed11.5in-stroke 6.5in

 

 

 

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The new shocks are avalible for wide track standard both with or without spherical joints. We also have some new specially made spherical joint spacers to make fitting a doddle no more bits of old tube and packing washers. The dampers are abour one 30% lighter than the steel ones, but with the same damping . Sorry if this seems like an advert.
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Graham,

 

I swapped over to AVOs on my Westfield and the difference compared to the old Spax units was amazing. They're much more progressive and don't seem to suffer from "stiction" like the Spax ones did.

 

For the record they're steel bodied AVOs which are fitted with spherical bearings.

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*thumbup* I replaced the spax units on my cyclone with the ally AVO SA1000's. Regarding weight, (the rears are 15", and fronts 12" on my car), the weight saving was 0.5kg rear and 0.4kg front per corner - not as much as some would expect but I did weigh very carefully. Just to cross check I did compare the percentage saving compared with the Spax, and it worked out at just over 30%, which is what AVO claim to be the difference between their steel and alloy units, so it seems about right. Probably not worth the change for the weight saving alone, but the improvement is very, very noticeable, specially as the compression damping on the Spax was totally shot at, at only 6K miles.

Not used in absolute anger yet due to winter but I am well impressed.

Downside?, well they appear to have saved a little doh by not annodising the body - its bare alloy, pity, and in my application I had to shave some material off the top eye to provide clearance on compression, due to the extra sectional thickness of the ally version.

Paid about £420 *biggrin*

 

brian.

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the freestyle/avo dampers look to be ali versions of the steel Avo Pro Race dampers.

 

I'll not give the part numbers because that would be most unfair to Freestyle. From what I can glean, freestyle do not seem to be adding much on top and so I believe them to be excellent value.

 

I'm fitting mine this weekend 😬

 

To those that have already fitted them. Whats the procedure for setting the ride height? Will I need a special tool to do this once the spring is under compression.

 

I suppose my initial idea is to measure the ride height before I remove the old bilsteins and try to achieve the same with the avos.

 

Also any dangers when removing the old springs/dampers? This slightly worries me cos I can imagine the springs could do me much damage.

 

Do the bolts to hold in the dampers need to be torques up to specific values.

 

I am replacing my bottom wishbones too. Do the bolts on these have torque values too.

 

Finally, am I right in thinking that the uprights connect to the lower wishbones by just sitting in a cup secured by a circlip?

 

can you tell i'm a suspension virgin yet?

 

 

Edited by - fordy on 10 Jan 2003 12:00:53

 

Edited by - fordy on 10 Jan 2003 12:02:28

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When I was watching Gary do mine, he did not take that many precautions with the springs as I had a fairly high ride height (145mm from the chassis to the ground at the front - 160mm at the rear) and the springs had no strength left when there was no weight left on the wheels.

 

On putting the new shocks together, he only hand tightened the spring height adjuster with the shocks off the car and the car was running at 135mm (I need to raise mine by about 5mm to stop the front tyres chewing the clamshells). The adjusting rings are locked with a grub screw - so you will need a suitable allen key - don't know the size)

 

Only minor problem was getting the ali sleeve out of the bottom of the old front shocks to reuse - but Gary sorted that out without a glitch.

 

As for torque settings. The front damper upper mount is difficult to get to so F tight using and ordinary ratchet hex drive. The front damper lower mount is F tight with an allen key - but more care if you use a hex drive and socket set due to the extra leverage available. My car is a live axle, so I cannot advise on the rear of a de-dion car.

 

 

 

Low tech luddite - xflow and proud!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am just fitting a set of Pro Race Avo’s to the rear of my live axle. Removing the old damper posed no problems – (just jacked the car up and unbolted them).

Installing the new ones is pretty straight forward too, although I had to cut down some old bushes to use as spacers as the rose joints are narrower than the old bushes. I think Steve Foster did a good article on installing Avo dampers, to be found in the archives.

 

Graham, my particular dampers could only be installed with the adjuster nut at the bottom, but I think more importantly the adjustable platform has to installed on the bottom.

 

I did forget to measure the ride height before installing the dampers, and set my new Avo’s to the same length as my old Spax dampers forgetting that I had opted for a slightly stiffer set of springs! So take anything I have written so far with a hefty lump of salt.

 

Haven’t tested the new dampers out yet, I’m still waiting for a set of Powerflex bushes to arrive before I can reassemble my car (bushes ordered before Christmas) , and I can’t use my old bushes as I’ve cut them up to use as spacers!

 

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