simon metcalfe Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 I am trying to set up the idle speed on my crossflow. The warm engine idles at about 1100 rpm - however, whilst the idle adjustment screws on the rear carb impair or improve the performance in the usual way those on the front carb seem to make no difference to the set up at all - even if screwed down to seat completely so I can't set the idle speed up correctly across both carbs. I've unscrewed the screws and cleaned - all seems ok there and have also removed and checked the idle jets themselves - again all ok. The throttle cable, linkage etc is also all ok. Any thoughts or suggestions much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Alston Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Make sure both carbs are drawing in the same amount of air by balancing with the throttle stops. If you have not got a suitable gauge, a reasonable job can be achieved by using a length of tubing held to the ear and into each choke in turn and adjusting the stop screws to get an even hiss. Once this is achieved, fine tune the idle with the air control screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Birkin S3 ZA. Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Have you balanced the carbs properly? Start with balancing the carbs followed by setting the idle mixture and the idle speed. Idle speed and idle mixture might have to be done several times to get it right. If all the jets and passages are clean it should be straight forward, if you still struggle look for blocked jets, or air leaks, even ignition problems. Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eugene Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 whilst the idle adjustment screws on the rear carb impair or improve the performance in the usual way those on the front carb Those do not sound like the idle adjustment screws... they sound like the idle mixture screws. The idle is adjusted by the throttle stop screw. But, you do need to get the balance correct, and possible air bleed too. It is actually very simple - see: http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon metcalfe Posted April 29, 2013 Author Share Posted April 29, 2013 Many thanks all for this advice - I had overlooked the fact that I need to balance them first - then adjust the idle mixtures. Will try again....Thanks again, Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon C Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 If you fancy treating yourself to a to a nice balance tool have a look at the Synchrometer. Very easy to use and works a treat on carbs as well as throttle bodies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon metcalfe Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 Balancing first made all the difference - now running perfectly. Many thanks for the Syncrometer link Woosh - I am already convinced I need one of those Thanks again to all for your help, Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil66 Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 Synchrometer.. pah...! In my day we did it with a length of syphon hose - one end down the barrel and the other in yer ear 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaterBram Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 But a synchro meter will still work in the middle of a noisy paddock where you would not here the sutulties of the hose Edited by - CaterBram on 30 Apr 2013 20:49:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon metcalfe Posted April 30, 2013 Author Share Posted April 30, 2013 ...have to say, I used the length of tubing today and it worked very well - will be interesting to compare my settings achieved with the tube with the Syncrometer measurements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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