simon metcalfe

Hi Terry, just a thought, after a rebuild I had a tapping noise with mine when going over bumps etc - took ages to diagnose as I thought it was suspension / bushes etc - but it was the fuel line from the tank, sometimes the bumps were just enough to cause it to hit the inside of the transmission tunnel. Additional P clip sorted it. Regards Simon.

Thanks Tom, yes, I'll change the 3rd one too 👍

Thanks both, I will change them over the winter 😀.

Will be refurbing my brakes over the winter and just wondering if I should take the opportunity to replace the braided brake hoses. Last replaced 10 years ago - no problems with them at all, just that one wonders about the condition of the rubber inside the braiding. Many thanks Simon.

Hi, I had the same set up which I changed 3 years ago as I was experiencing ignition problems especially in hot conditions. I talked the issue over with Redline Components and they advised a completely new distributor (with the new ignitor inside), new appropriate coil and new leads. All very easy to install using the existing connections to the loom. Cost was £165 inc VAT. I originally assumed the fault was due to the coil but in fact the old distributor was corroded / rusty inside probably as a result of a water pump failure. I think the damaged distributor caused a weaker spark especially when hot. As you say, very difficult to see anything underneath the carbs. Hope you get it sorted, Simon.

Many thanks Phil. I’ve sent you a PM. Simon

1990 long cockpit chassis. Many thanks, Simon

Hello everyone. Just thought I'd report back with the now resolved electrical issues. There were 3 x simultaneous issues... As suspected (and seems nearly always the case) the main culprit was a poor earth - it was the one under the dash near the wiper motor. Interestingly I'd checked this and all "seemed" ok - but the auto electrician could tell it was poor from his multimeter - tightening the nut with a ratchet sorted this. Secondly - the hazard light switch (again very temperamental as rarely used) was causing the indicators to fail. This was resolved by soaking it in switch cleaner and turning on and off a few times. Finally, the ignition light (sometimes on sometimes not with the key at position 2 in the ignition) - this is caused by a poor connection at the alternator - it's the smaller of the 3 x wires. He tightened the connector which seems to have fixed it for now. He pointed out that it's important that this is working correctly otherwise the battery won't charge! I'm pleased that the new ignition arrangements had nothing to do with the above. So, thanks to you all for your help - and especially to Jonathan for sending me the wiring diagram which was very useful indeed. Cheers Simon.

My car (1990 Crossflow) has mysteriously developed an electrical fault with the instruments and some components which I can't diagnose so I have arranged for an electrical engineer to check it. I suspect it's an earthing issue but I've checked them all - battery, front to chassis and under the dashboard near the wiper motor - all look fine, as do all the wires and connections. The car was running perfectly last October when I laid it up for the winter. All I’ve done is replace the distributor and coil (with parts supplied from Mick & John when they were still at Redline), and refit the battery which I remove for the winter. I have also disconnected / removed the old Lucas ignition amplifier – and I’m wondering if in doing this (feeding the plug through the bulkhead) I may have dislodged an earth wire or something from the ignition switch – although I can’t see or find any loose wires. I have checked all the fuses - all ok. Symptoms. If the ignition is off – when I switch the sidelights on the blue (main beam) light comes on on the dashboard and the temperature gauge needle goes to max. If the ignition is on (not engine running, I don’t dare try to start it in case it causes further woes, although I'm advised that the ignition circuit is separate from the rest of the wiring) – the red ignition light comes on sometimes but usually not. The fuel gauge reads as normal – but when I turn on the side lights, the fuel gauge switches off (I think its like the polarity has been switched on it) and the temperature gauge goes to max. The indicators don’t work either (tried a new switch) but the hazards are fine. All the lights are working ok, including the brake lights. The wipers don’t work, the washers are ok, and the air horn doesn’t work – the pump weakly whirrs but I think it may be going backwards! The battery voltage is 12.36v ign off, and 12.32 ign on. I’ve checked the voltage to the earth too and that is also 12.3v so I don’t think it’s a main earth issue. I connected all the ignition wires correctly, but have also disconnected it all just in case this was the cause somehow – but it makes no difference. I have also double checked all the connections on the alternator and starter which are fine. Any assistance or suggestions which may help the electrician would be hugely appreciated as I can’t think of anything else I can check. Kind regards Simon Metcalfe.

Ah, many thanks for the standard wiring colours - I will use this to have a look - hopefully it will be something simple so I can have it resolved before the next MOT! Thanks again, Simon

Hi Jonathan, yes, that's exactly what I was thinking - basically the hazards would normally function even without the key in the ignition, whereas you would normally need the ignition on for the indicators to work. I just happened to notice on one occasion, that the ignition light (normal bulb not LED) was also not lit - and, possibly coincidentally, all was resolved by wiggling the ignition wires under the dash as you suggest. I do have a wiring diagram (in the original 1990 build manual) - but, oh dear, I have to confess to finding them rather like reading the Rosetta Stone...

I have also experienced this in the past. With mine, the hazards always worked fine but not the indicators - but always a temporary fault. I have replaced the hazard light switch (made no difference) and also fitted a new relay - which possibly worked for a while - but I noticed recently that when it now occurs, the ignition light fails to come on (although engine starts and runs ok). So I'm thinking I may have a poor connection with the ignition wires somewhere which I guess may explain why the hazards work but the indicators sometimes dont. regards Simon

Hello all, just a quick update on the coil / ignition issue. I've been for several test drives using the new coil now and all seems well - although the coil does still get pretty hot. I have checked the primary resistance which when cold is 3.0 ohms, rising to 3.5 ohms when hot and returning to 3.0 ohms as it cools. Unfortunately I am unable to get a reading for the secondary resistance - it may be my multimeter is not suffiently advanced? But I'm thinking the consistent 3.0 ohm cold reading means this coil is not sustaining any damage so far. Anyway, fingers crossed, I hope things will continue as they are and I will probably change to the Aldon ignition over the winter. Thanks again to you all for your help, Simon

Jonathan, thank you so much for taking the trouble to obtain these figures - it's extremely helpful. I have spoken with Redline who advise that it is normal for the coil to get "fairly" warm so I'm going to go for a few tentative drives and test the resistance each time in the hope that all remains constant. Then, I think over the winder I will change the distributor - or certainly switch to the more robust "in distributor) electronic ignition which will hopefully lead to improvements all round. I will keep you updated with the resistance readings! Simon.

Thanks Jonathan - I will check the resistance - is this done without the engine running? Apologies to Antonym and Oliver - your posts were only included in this thread when I replied earlier. Piers, you are correct, it is the original distributor and Lucas electronic ignition - I expect you helped fit them!!! Redline have mentioned the newer "in/on" distributor systems to me in the past. Not sure if this is the Aldon type I've heard mentioned? If I do go down the completely new distributor route, are there any recommendations or advantages of one type over another? It's all a bit of a shame as - as mentioned before, the engine really does run perfectly - it's just that the coil gets suspiciously hot and having failed before I'm just not confident to drive it too far..I suspect that each time I drive it may damage it slightly and cause it to fail again! Regards Simon

Thanks to all for your advice. Jonathan - is the internal resistance measurement in order to check if the coil has been damaged? Piers - yes I will check all the connections - I can obviously check the connections at the coil end but where else should I be looking? Are there any connections inside the distributor? I wouldn't be surprised if there are some poor earths etc as it's all 27 years old now... It was excellent to meet up at Goodwood on the Caterham stand! and I'm pleased Charles has been in contact with you - great news. Elie - yes the rotor is partially plastic - it has a slotted metal component which passes the copper terminals on the cap. I've cleaned all the terminals and the metal surface which connects to the central terminal also. all looks ok. Yes, I've read about the "new" electronic ignition being part of the distributor now. Thanks again to you all and I will let you know how I get on... Simon.

How hot should the coil get in a crossflow? It's running the Lucas electronic ignition supplied by Caterham in 1987. Was out for a blat last weekend and the engine cut out without warning. Engine would not restart at all so towed home.. I traced the fault to the coil, which has run well for the past 2 years. When I fitted an old coil (possibly not the correct spec to run with the electronic ignition) the engine started immediately and ran well for 20 miles - when there was a loss of power and misfiring etc - the engine would not rev above 3000 rpm but fortunately I was able to drive it home like this. The coil was too hot to touch. I have just fitted a Lucas DLB105, which I'm told is the correct one for the ignition. I've just been for a test and it all worked very well - however, again the coil gets very hot, perhaps not quite as hot as before but still too hot to touch really. Are these temperatures normal? I'm concerned that there may be a fault which is causing damage / overheating to the coil. I've been careful to reconnect the +ve and -ve as before and checked the plugs and leads and distributor cap, all of which look ok. The new coil seems to work perfectly, the engine running as it should but I don't want to risk going too far if the overheating is likely to cause it to fail again. Any thoughts much appreciated. Simon

Hi, just a thought but have you also replaced the coil? Regards Simon

..also, should have checked, it it in new condition? Reason I ask is I have an oil leak fm my crankshaft pulley. The pulley has some signs of a wear groove so need to replace with a new one. Thanks Simon

Hi Nick, I'd be interested in the bottom pulley if still available please. Would you be able to post it to Ipswich? regards Simon

Please can anyone help with suggestions to cure “intermittent, but usually ” reluctant starting? 1990 Ford Crossflow 1700 Refurbed carbs. Lucas electronic ignition. New Coil, new leads, new spark plugs. The issue is that from cold, the engine won’t fire – unless I reverse the wires to the connections on the coil – in which case it starts immediately. It also drives ok like this, although having owned the car for 25 years I can tell it’s not right. So, when warm, switching the coil connections back correctly (black and white wire to the negative terminal, white wire to the positive terminal) the engine then starts fine and drives perfectly. The fault was present with the previous coil also, hence replacing it with a new one (from Redline). It will sometimes start ok from cold with the coil connected correctly – but it is reluctant. With the connections reversed it always starts better – hardly having to turn the engine at all. All seems very strange and something is not quite right so would very much welcome any thoughts on anything I can check further and why it should make a difference if I reverse the coil connections. Cheers Simon.

Hi Virden. I replaced mine 2 years ago and having checked various options I would recommend Redline who are excellent and will discuss etc on the phone if necessary. My callipers (FordM16) were £190 for the pair. I also went for a set of Mintex 1144 pads £44 and changed the discs too which were about £20. I also considered upgrades but the consensus was "why change what already works" - and you know they will fit. Good luck, hope you have it all together again soon. Simon

Hi Rob, Caterham advised me the code is BS538 (Post Office red). However, I experienced difficulties getting the correct match for my (standard) red car. I gave the code to a professional paint sprayer but the end result proved to be too "light" ie not such a deep full red and failed to match properly. They tried twice with different suppliers but both were unsucessful. Apparently there are different shades of code BS538. Caterham then advised that it is "not a code as such - more a mix" so I resorted to buying a tin direct from them - expensive and slow (I think it comes from their paint shop and they wait until they have a batch mixed up) but the end result was a perfect match. I agree with other posts though, there must be an off the shelf" paint which would work. Good luck, Simon.

Hi Les, what's it like with no crash helmet - still useable "on the road"?

Hi, I've had similar problems with my fog light in the past - in my experience it was one of two things (or possibly both!) 1) Bad earth - the earth is likely to be corroded from all the debris inside the wheel arch - disconnect and either clean or if necessary cut wire and attach a new connection. 2) Faulty switch - because it is rarely used the connections within the switch can become "dusty" - it can help to just switch on and off several times. Hope this helps.