simon metcalfe

...have to say, I used the length of tubing today and it worked very well - will be interesting to compare my settings achieved with the tube with the Syncrometer measurements.

Balancing first made all the difference - now running perfectly. Many thanks for the Syncrometer link Woosh - I am already convinced I need one of those Thanks again to all for your help, Simon.

Many thanks all for this advice - I had overlooked the fact that I need to balance them first - then adjust the idle mixtures. Will try again....Thanks again, Simon

I am trying to set up the idle speed on my crossflow. The warm engine idles at about 1100 rpm - however, whilst the idle adjustment screws on the rear carb impair or improve the performance in the usual way those on the front carb seem to make no difference to the set up at all - even if screwed down to seat completely so I can't set the idle speed up correctly across both carbs. I've unscrewed the screws and cleaned - all seems ok there and have also removed and checked the idle jets themselves - again all ok. The throttle cable, linkage etc is also all ok. Any thoughts or suggestions much appreciated.

Hi Piers, very good to see you on here! I use a battery conditioner on mine (Banner battery) and often leave it plugged in for weeks, or even months with no ill effects. Electrolyte levels seem unaffected. As previously mentioned, your battery should last years like this - I also remove mine over the winter months to keep at room temperature (still on the conditioner) Regards Simon Metcalfe

Hi, just a thought but I had a similar mystery clonking on my live axle car years ago - it actually turned out to be a collapsed / failed gearbox mount - it's unfortunately very fiddly to access but can be replaced without removing the engine and gearbox. Undo the bolt (there's a round hole in the floor) and carefully jack up the gearbox to check it. Basically if it's gone it allows lateral movement which causes the clonking.

Hi, I have an Ital axle Crossflow which has developed a (small) knock or clonk when going into left handed corners. It only really does it when cold though and after a few miles the knock seems to disappear. Just wondering if this is a cause for concern and what the cause may be - and why it's only there for a few miles. Does the oil in the axle warm up to stop it in some way? Would it be easily remedied - car now up on axle stands for the winter... I'm sure the cause is from within the axle - the A frame buses are all fine as is the bearing adjustment. Any thoughts much appreciated, regards Simon.

Hi, as per post fm Dignity, this sounds like it may be leaking fm the speedo drive - my assembly guide (20 years ago!) had no mention that a small O ring seal is needed - hence mine leaked oil just as you describe - fiddly to - but it is possible to fit without removing engine/gearbox. Simon.

Thanks to all for your advice - got there in the end - it was in fact noting more than a corroded live feed - which naturally was the last thing I checked!!!

thanks - and oh yes, forgot to mention, had the headlights switched on also. Simon.

Hi, having trouble getting the rear fog light to work - Im pretty sure the switch was faulty so have replaced that but replaced the light unit too just in case. When connecting the new switch i heard one of the fuses blow - a 5a one - also now replaced - but still no joy. There is only one way to connect the switch to the pin connections so I have this correct. However, there are two spade connections on either side of the switch - and 2 wires - a black and a red one which look like they are for these connections - however, I'm sure only one of these was connected to the swich before - If I connect them both now then the switch light (normally to indicate it's on) is permenantly on. Should I be using both these wires? Whatever combination I try the fog light itself won't come on now. Pretty sure the earth on the light unit is ok - cleaned with a wire brush before reconnecting. Any ideas / pointers as to where Im going wrong or what else I can check to get it working please? *confused*Regards Simon.

Hi, I used to have the same problems with Lucas alternators years ago - now run a Valeo which has operated without fault for 20 years!!! No heat shields nor insulation tape either.. Fm memory the Valeo (bought direct fm Caterham) is indeed shorter than the Lucas so makes all the difference. It also has the added bonus of taking the connecting wires away fm the exhaust heat so the plastic doesn't split and crumble away causing shorts in the wet. Rgds Simon

Hi Muscat - as you can see fm Alex' link, I had exactly the same problem as you. Alex's assistance was spot on and the carbs have been fine ever since. It's an easy procedure once you start - don't do what I did though - I managed to replace one of the chokes 180degs round the wrong way so take care when replacing them. Also, don't overtighten the grub screws - the chokes are made of very soft etal for some reason. Simon.

Hi Brucie, I converted to cycle wings 2 years ago from clams and have to say it was worth it - although as you are discovering, it is a bigger job than you would imagine. Just a couple of points to add - I had to physically bend the new wing stays so they fitted centrally over the tyres. This was VERY tricky to do so hope yours fit!! Secondly, when all is in place, you may find that you need to remove the cycle wings to get the tracking checked - where I went their gauge would not fit against the wheel with the wing in place as it's too low. It is all worth it in the end!!!! rgds Simon.

Hi Alex, just a note of thanks - I did as you suggested and it's worked - carbs are fine now with not a drop of unburnt fuel! I'm still not really sure where the air leak was from but your instructions were clearly spot on - thanks again - was beginning to think I'd have to take the carbs off and give them to a Weber agent to look at...£££ etc! 😳

Alex, this is a big help - thanks very much - i'll have a go and let you know how I get on..Simon.

hello Alex and many thanks for this suggestion - you're quite right re the build up of unburnt deposits on the backplate - quite thick & oily if this is what you mean? Please could you explain exactly what I need to do re the hylomar - is it to go between the venturi and the trumpet - is this where the leak is happening? (I've noticed some of the trumpets are looser than others) Also do I have to remove the venturis do apply the hylomar - is this easy? And finally, I'm a bit concerned that the hylomar may somehow get into the inner workings of the carb and block it - is there any danger of this? Many thanks Simon.

1700 X/Flow running on 40 Webers with Luminition ignition. A strange fuel mixture "leak" or spitting has started at 4000 rpm or above esp when cruising on motorways etc. It's not the usual "occasional" audible spitback but a film of fuel mixture (not just petrol) which I think is coming from the front carb but it's very difficult to tell - curiously the engine runs fine - no misfire or problems starting etc - but rather annoying and the whole right side of the engine bay is now covered having driven some 500 miles back fm Germany..Any ideas please? I have changed the coil and fitted new sparking plugs.

Hi Chris, apologies if this is stating the obvious but is the cable attatchment to the pedal loose and pivoting? I've seen the cables either seize up through no lubrication or even tightened right up which leads to the cable failing.

Hi Giles, have you removed and replaced the dizzy body itself? It is v easy to replace this 180 deg out - usually leads to the engine popping and banging but it won't actually run. Just a thought.

Hi Nick, I've run the same alternator on my X/Flow now for over 10 years! Prior to that however I got through 2 in about 2 years. My problems were heat related as the rear of the alternator is v close to the exhausts - it effectively cooked the plastic insulation resulting either in poor connection or shorting at the connections. I had to replace that part of the wiring loom and all the connections and invest in a Valeo alternator fm Caterham - from memory appx £70. Prior to that I was using "standard" Escort spec ones which were too long (the Valeo is appx 3/4 the length so the rear is that bit further from the exhaust). Hope this helps, regards Simon.

Many thanks for all your input. The main reason for my interest in using Castrol R is simply for the smell as some of you have rightly guessed - there really is nothing like it and it seems to me to be a shame not to try it using in my as it were "old fashioned" X/Flow which does such a low annual mileage. I have heard of the "cup in the petrol tank" suggestion and have been concerned about it blocking the jets over time so yr input (CAB & K80RUM) is most helpful - thanks - I will give this a try first and revert with hopefully an eau de Castrol R success story in the spring. Thanks again, Simon.

Am thinking of running my X Flow on Castrol R. The engine was converted to an unleaded head in 1994 and I've used Castrol GTX since, changing the oil every 2500 miles or so (my appx annual mileage with no track days). I would welcome any advice as to whether this is advisable (or even possible with the GTX residue in the engine after draining) and if so any problems / advice anyone has encountered with Castrol R in the past please.

Hi. I had exactly the same problem with my first X/Flow. As you've discovered, the problem arises when the insulation on the wires becomes brittle due to the heat from the exhaust - what type of alternator are you using? I made the initial mistake of using a "normal" one fm a Ford dealer but the ones supplied by C/C are mush shorter so the terminals are signifigantly further away fm the exhausts - I've used the same alternator now for 10 years with no problems (famous last words).