Best way to connect screen wiring for removal

[velocityblade]

Hi again. After a little more experienced advice now I have fitted the captive nut brackets ready to swap to Aeroscreen. While fitting the brackets I noted the wiring from each end of the screen has soldered joints going to a spade connector, which in turn connect to the main wiring loom. I guess that I need to unsolder these connections, put in bullet connectors and re-connect.

The advice I am after is the best way to deal with these wires/connectors when swapping the full screen for the Aeroscreen. For the screen swap to take 10 minutes, there has to be a simple way of dealing with disconnecting or re-connecting the screen wires so the knee panels don't need removing each time. Do I pull the wires and connectors through the scuttle, unplug the connectors, remove the screen and tape the remaining (loom) wire to the scuttle ready for re-connecting when the full screen goes back on? Or is it best to pull these wires out from behind the knee panel, and do all the disconnecting/re-connecting by the knee panel?

Or have I missed the blindingly obvious? ☹️

Thanks in advance.

[Pete-B]

Once you've fitted the bullet connectors the wire from the screen should be long enough to reach the other connector. I find I can get get my fingers behind the knee panels to fish the wire out. Don't forget to fit the little rubber grommet on the screen wire before you fit the bullet connector!

[myothercarsa2cv]

I pulled the connectors through the scuttle. When disconnected, there's only a very short length dangling.

[velocityblade]

Excellent and quick advice. Pete, Thanks for the reminder on the grommet. I was wondering if that would stay put in the scuttle when I pulled the wire through. I have a cut out switch fitted on the driver's side so it would be tricky fishing around for an odd wire in that bird's nest when re-connecting

2CV, I like your style - keep it simple and make it easy to re-connect. I am tempted to go that way. The idea of taping it down was just to prevent scratching form wires flapping around in the breeze.

Thanks again both....

 

 

 

Edited by - velocityblade on 8 May 2011 20:24:49

[fred_gustafsson]

loose the knee panels, they make no difference whatsoever

[velocityblade]

OK Fred I could see that working too. Not sure I feel comfortable with all those wires from the cut off switch being exposed but I guess that's just just me.

[myothercarsa2cv]

Once you have the captives, and the connection outside the scuttle, you never have to worry about the knee panel anyway - just secure them with a rivet either end and ditch the self tappers. Saves weight I would keep them there just to keep it tidier... Personal preference though

[velocityblade]

Point of clarity please 2CV. Do you leave the wire from the loom through the scuttle all the time, even when the full screen is re-fitted? Or only with the Aeroscreen?

Thanks.

[myothercarsa2cv]

Yep. With the full screen on, the wire is tucked behind the door flaps. With the aero, the car end is pushed back as far into the scuttle without the connection going through, and left there. Doesn't bother me that it is there. You could tape it under the aero so you couldn't see it if you wished.

[velocityblade]

Thanks again 2CV. I'm sold on this approach.

Right, where did I put that soldering iron?

[Rattie]

Another way (I prefer it) is to slighly enlarge the scuttle holes for larger grommets, then use Japanese bullets like these:

http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/1082-195.jpg

Bullets at Polevolt

 

I used the males on the screen ends, and keep the larger female connectors inside the scuttle. I don't have any trouble hooking the two together even with the panels in place, but then our panels have the large holes in for access.

 

This avoids having wires and connectors flapping about when the aero is on for track use. As I say, I prefer it, YMMV.

[velocityblade]

Hmmm and I thought this was going to be simple 😬

Neat arrangement with the female connector on the loom side, Rattie. Would work using 2CV's arrangement too.

[Ray Pearce]

I have used 2mm gold connectors soldered to the wires with heat-shrink as insulation (female ends inside scuttle, male on screen end). These pass easily through the existing grommets and are rated to 40 Amps. Available as 2 pairs complete with heat-shrink from most radio controlled model shops for about £2. For example here

[Rattie]

Looks pretty nice. Those gold "banana style" sprung plugs are very effective. My only worry would be the heatshrink wearing off the females and allowing a short. Probably unlikely, especially if you put some extra thickness on for protection.

 

The jap bullets have good thick clear "rubber" sheaths that don't perish and give excellent mechanical protection. I've come across them on other loom products and so the idea came to use them for this, but those gold pins are great for current rating in a tiny package.

[velocityblade]

Thanks Ray - looks good to me. I've used heat shrink sleeving on a number of things in the past and am confident it will last. I wondered about a "dummy" male connector to be used when the Aero is on, so the female stays clean. That could then be set up in such a way that it secured the female connector and wire to avoid abrasion. I'll think some more.

 

Thanks everyone for the help

[7_Malc]

Hi Ray – I am looking for some bullet connectors to replace the current spade connectors on my heated screen –  just as you describe above. However the link you added (nine years ago) no longer works. Can you you hep me out with a pointer towards what to buy and where to get them… thanks, Malcolm   

[SLR No.77]

Bullet connectors: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Bullet_Terminals_and_Connectors.html

The Japanese type are the easiest to fit with a proper crimping tool.

[Wrightpayne]

I just use a single choc block connector on each end. Disconnect the screen wires obviously :-)

[elie boone]

This is what you need, just solder the wire ends, makes it a lot easier.

[7_Malc]

Cheers Stuart,

I am not familiar with these, so am guessing that I need two of these "kits":

'Japanese bullet connector kit. 2 terminals & 2 insulators'

– one for each side of the screen. Is this correct?

many thanks, Malcolm