fred_gustafsson

I want to replace my rev counter but the new one does not support coil-on-plug. Is there a way of connecting it to the ECU instead? Cheers

I happened to stumble over a mini serie called"Patrick Dempsey: Racing Le Mans" the other week. It was actually pretty good, definitely worth watching on a cold and dark winter's night. Not sure i like the guy much but he did compliment on my moustache when I met him in Sebring

If you are in London, try "london chroming" on old kent road for a truly Dickensian experience but they are pretty slow. "Fox plating" in sydenham comes highly recommended but haven't tried them myself.

Thanks. Will it work if I have LED at the front and standard bulbs at the back?

I have replaced my indicators with LED versions and now need to fit eitherL ED resistors or replace the flasher unit. Is it possible to replace the flasher unit on a seven? Where are they located? Is there one of two of them? The car is a 2009 Duratec.

Doh! Why didn't I think of that. Thanks!

I got a indicator repeater that only come with one wire. The ground is supposed to go through the mounting bolt but that won't work on my GRP wing. Does anyone smarter than me have a good idea on how I can attach a wire to the mounting bolt or the washer or something like that? I don't have access to a welder.

Martyn, Just saw this old post and similar questions. Just hooked OBD wifi dongle to my Duratec 175 (bog standard CC a la 2009) and fired up some open source data logger. I can see the battery voltage of the car but the dongle says it cannot connect to the ECU. Time for an emerald?

problem solved. It turns out the the intermittant wiper is only working when the main is off, not the other way around.

I have an intriguing problem that someone might be clever enough to figure out. I am clearly not. it might take a you a few minutes to analyse it so make yourself a cup of tea before reading the rest and the attached PDF. The story is that I want to install an intermittent windscreen wiper in my seven so I built a relay box to do it. I have unit tested the module and it pulls the two relays as expected but when i connect it to the wiper motor it doesn't affect the functionality at all, it just keep working as before. At first I thought I must have hooked it up the wrong way but i have double and triple checked. Now to the instruction PDF: Figure 1 is a wiring diagram before installation and figure 2 is after. Looking at the Figure 2 in the PDF I cannot actually see how it could possibly work at all if installed like instructed. Is it just me or is the wiring diagram in Figure 2 wrong? Can anyone shed any light over this?

i don't know what that are called but I am trying to find a couple of those u-shaped bar that protects your toggle switches from accidentally being thrown. Think spaceships, military, submarines etc. any ideas? It's not for my seven...

i've got NGK TR6AP13 fitted when I got the car from Caterham

I have the same setup and i noticed three thing when i got rid of the cat: the noise is different but not much louder, it seems to rev easier at high revs and most importantly - it shoots flames on the overrun when hot!

what's the best way of getting access from the footwell?

how many fingers do i need to amputate to be able to get the gearbox oil plug back in place?

Simon, Cambridge charged me 27 quid for the 55mm pulley. A bit expensive yes, but they did swap it for free and paid for the return postage as I didn't have an air gun to undo the bolt.

Simon. The CC standard 2.0 Duratec is a 66mm pulley. Changing it for a 55mm will give the alternator a max RPM of 17.750 at engine 8000RPM. This is OK as the stated max rev for the alternator is 18000. If Im doing the maths right, a 44mm pulley would take it about to 22100 which would cook it.

Jonathan, Yes, whenever I was driving home in the dark and got a bit stuck in traffic I got this problem. I have now installed both a voltmeter and an ammeter so I know exactly what's going on. Idling with your headlights on and the radiator fan on means that you are using some 15 amps more than you are charging. It will run down the battery pretty quickly. The super simple solution is to remember to rev the engine for a few minutes before switching it off. The battery gets charged very quickly and 2500 Rpm. Fred

Simon, I have the same problem with my duratec. It took me ages to figure it out but it basically boils down to the alternator pulley size. It's a bit too big so the alternator doesn't start charging the battery until you hit approx 1800 RM which means that if you are driving in slow traffic, you will run out of juice if your lights etc are on. Cambridge motorsports sells a 55mm pulley that fixes it.

I bought a new pulley from cambridge motorsports who makes the original alternator for CC. They don't much on the website but they seems to have a lot f other stuff if you ask them nicely.

I had similar issues so i installed an ammeter and voltmeter to be able to figure out what's going on. It turns out that the standard CC alternator doesn't charge the battery at all under 1700 RPM. The car will draw more then 15 amps when you are idling. If you are driving home with headlights on, the fan going and spend a lot of time in traffic jams (I live in London) you tend to come home with a battery that is almost empty and that won't be enough to start to a week later. I considering a smaller pulley wheel on the alternator to make it charge at lower revs but for now I just rev it for a few minutes before parking. (Duratec 175)

No, it has a crimp connector which is easy enough to disconnect but you have to cut it off to be able to pass it out through the hole in the bodywork. Stupid. I replace it with a screw connector thingy so I can remove the windscreen at will.

same on mine. Crap quality switch.

Mine was the caterham standard part. I reckon this brass one from car builder colutions will do the job. here

Twice have I been stranded with water leaks because of the stupid little barbed T junction sits half way on the main water hose (just above the modine). It seems to develop a fine crack next right up against the junction itself. This has happened after demanding days at tracks and blats. Why is this happening and has it happened to anyone else. I will replace it with a brass one as soon as possible. Its a Duratec 175.