fred_gustafsson

I want to increase the idle rev a bit on my durance 175. Any ideas on how to do this?

they are thirsty

Thanks guys, I think I understand it all now. Better keep my revs up then... Paul: the website is not public, unfortunately. It's our internal system at work.

Idling is showing negative charge of a few amps but 2000rpm give the same 5 positive amps as 5000rpm. I'll take that as 5 amps being the maximum charging rate of the battery, correct?

"Regulator" - interesting. I know there is voltage regulator built in to the altenator but is there such a thing as a current regulator. BTW, the car is 2009 175 Duratec, all standard components.

picture of wiring diagram here

I simply followed these instructions for fitting it: here

Thanks for the link pmobbs. Good to hear that your is showing the same thing. So any ideas on why my battery is draining if I drive in town for a while with the lights and fan on?

I hear you. Voltage is a rock solid 14 volts when engine is running. Ammeter is fitter between solenoid and alternator with a spur to the ignition et al.

I have had some electrical gremlins in relation to charging the battery in my car since new so I installed an ammeter and a voltmeter. It's great in that it gives me an even bigger mystery to solve, here is the bottom line: Observation 1: engine off, ignition on, lights off - draws some 3-5 amps (ECU and fuel pump) Observation 2: engine off, igniation on, lights on - draws some 20-25 amps leading to the conclusion that lights draw 20 amps which is perfectly OK. Observation 3: engine running at 2000 rpm, lights off charges at about 5 amps Observation 4: engine running at 2000 rpm, lights on, still charges at about 5 amps! Question 1: shouldn't obersvation 3 charge at much, much more than 5 amps? Question 2: why is there no different in the current with and without lights when the engine is running? Is the alternator buggererd?

Thanks, I will have a go at it tomorrow

On the standard, electronic tacho on my 2010 duratec 175 car, which colour is the lead that transmits the rev pulse? I want to hook up a gizmo that needs it but there are a whole bunch of cables and the assembly guide gives no clue.

Does anyone know if the mechanical and the electronic speedos/odometers are interchangable? Do they have the same square plug? I'm fed up with the electronic one going bonkers all the time.

Try converting it to ethanol instead. That way you GAIN power, not loose. And it is a much simpler conversion too.

I was hammering away at my bulkhead today, as you do, and I heard weird whirring noises from the interia switch. Does anyone know how it actually works? Is it true what they say about dwarfs living in there, making ill-informed decisions on my driving style?

if you open the expansion vessel while the engine is running you can see how much water that being returned. It sure looks a lot less than 80 l/min to me.

Or you could do it yourself. Use Autosol on a bit of old jeans fabric and start rubbing. Works a treat and takes less time than you think.

Yes, the wheel will be very hard to get off the splines. If brute force doesn't work then you can always remove the clamp that joins the upper steering column to the lower and take out the whole assembly and use a hammer.

I want to fit a mesh pocket to the passenger footwell for maps and such but can't seem to find any.

Yes, removing the knee panels made all the difference. Thanks again, John. See you tomorrow, I'm easy spotted by the silliest moustasch you ever seen.

Cheers John, that would be super. It's near Angel.

sorry, me stupid. There are only two, not thee bolts on either side. having problems with my maths...

I'm referring to the three allen bolts that hold the stancion itself. The probem is not that they are spinning in the captive nut, they are just bloody stuck.

The three bolts that hold the windscreen stanchions are stuck. My car is almost new and the stanchions were fitted by CC. I tried to use force but afraid I will just damage the bolts if I try any harder. Any ideas?

You can connect it to a spare blade on the ignition cylinder. I think there are a couple of them. This way it will not onlly be fused but alse activated when the key is turn to position 1, quite useful when you only want to charge your deivce without powering up the rest of the car.