Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

fred_gustafsson

Account Inactive
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    219

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by fred_gustafsson

  1. fred_gustafsson

    VOSA & IVA

    fred_gustafsson replied to AlC's topic in TechTalk

    I did mine in Edmonton last year. Try them, they were very lenient.
  2. fred_gustafsson
    Jetsepter, it is those little icons in the illuminated panel I am enquiring about. Any ideas?
  3. fred_gustafsson
    What are the warning lights in the lower part of the rev counter supposed to mean? One of them lights up temporarily when accelerating very hard? Is it an oil pressure warning or perhaps a battery charging warning? I got a standard 2009 dash for a 175bhp duratec.
  4. fred_gustafsson
    car now in ford garage somewhere in middle spain. Engine half way out, CRB busted, new one on order. Hope to be on my way tomorrow. If not a cable conversion, how about an conversion to automatic?
  5. fred_gustafsson
    spotted you in Portsmouth on Tuesday waiting to board the ferry to Santander. On my way from Chavez to Braga today and there you are with the Blue Morgan and all the bikers. Myself... I am in a bloody rental car because my 7 is stuck in Leon at the Ford garage with a busted CRB. NOT the way I intended to travel these fantastic roads!!!
  6. fred_gustafsson
    Thanks. Managed to transfer enough brake fluid from the brake resavoir to get me to the next village where I got some liquido de frenos. Thanks. There is no bleeding to be done, right? Jump pumping for a while?
  7. fred_gustafsson
    Stuck in a Spanish mountain pass with no clutch oil. Could try to drive to the next village without clutch but tricky to push and get in. Can I use olive oil? Or engine oil?
  8. fred_gustafsson
    John, that's great news. Which model of satnav do you have?
  9. fred_gustafsson
    Garmin is selling a dongle that connect to the OBD port and gives you onscreen gauges for engine load, coolant temp, timing advance, intake air temp, RPM etc. It also gives to any errors reported by the ECU. Has anyone tried it? will it work on a duratec?
  10. fred_gustafsson
    loose the knee panels, they make no difference whatsoever
  11. fred_gustafsson
    I wrapped my pipes last year but didn't notice much difference. I had much more success when I covered the actual footwell panels, front and below, with heat reflective sheets. A bit pricey though.
  12. fred_gustafsson
    Well, that is the way it is configured, the only way to address it is with a smaller pulley on the altenator. What do you consider a normal idle speed to be?
  13. fred_gustafsson
    Sorry but I don't understand what the problem is, mine does pretty much the same thing and I don't want the idle to go below 1500 anyway becuase then the alternator stops charging and the battery will run flat if stuck in traffic (I live in central London...)
  14. fred_gustafsson
    I used 4mm rivnuts for mine and there is no gap to speak of.
  15. fred_gustafsson
    Do it yourself. Autosol and some rought fabric (jeans etc) will do nicely.
  16. fred_gustafsson
    My IVA inspector did not check that particular item. It was in Edmonton last year. He didn't find a single think to complain on!
  17. fred_gustafsson
    i go tan answer from Edge in cambridge: The best way to remove the nut is to use an air powered or electric wheel gun or impact gun. Hold the pulley in your hand and use the gun on the nut. The nut will come undone easily. The direction of thread is a normal right hand thread. You will not be able to hold the pulley and undo the nut using a spanner or similar.
  18. fred_gustafsson
    Yes, it twirls very nicely inside, how the hell do you stop it from doing that?
  19. fred_gustafsson
    Problem found and sorted. It was grease and dirt in the switch, just like you suggested. Thanks guys.
  20. fred_gustafsson
    I can't get the bolt that holds the alternator pulley off. Not sure which way it is threaded and reckon is better to find out before applying massive force. And what is the best approach when dealing with this type of "nut inside a nut"? What kind of tools are best suited for this? It's an Edge alternator on a Duratec 175 from 2009 Picture here.
  21. fred_gustafsson
    reverse light works so fuse must be ok, right? Edited by - fred_gustafsson on 3 Feb 2011 11:09:10
  22. fred_gustafsson
    Done some thinking overnight. The measurement taken in my picture are all both taken with the circuit breaker open, shouldn't there be a 12 Volt difference between the two sides of the breaker then? And there should be an infitite amount of resistance between them, right? Must be a short between the battery and the breaker, right? Also, does anyone know how the brake testing button is wired in and the purpose of it? Is the fuse "upstream" or "downstream" of the breaker? It's a 2009 Duratec 175.
  23. fred_gustafsson
    Any ideas of why there are three wires on one side of the brake switch and two on the other?
  24. fred_gustafsson
    Uhmmm... I knew that... Maybe I should have paid more attention in school back in the 19th century
  25. fred_gustafsson
    my brake lights suddenly stopped working. Fuse is OK. Bulbs work. I got out my multimeter and understand even less now. There doesn't seem to be any voltage across the brake switch, see picture here. Does anyone have any bright(!) ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...