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Going to Replace dash and change all the switches - advice plse!


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Going to change the old dash out for CF and fancy modernising things at bit at the same time by using toggle switches instead.


Looking for some helpful pointers from anyone whos done it before please, also anything to watch out for?


(I will be doing it from the scuttle side).


Also Farnell seem to be the cheapest switch supplier out there, whats the best bet regarding LED's to say whats going on?


How easy is the wiring up of all the new stuff, is it just a case of being methodical and working through one switch at a time or what, again any pointers welcome!


thanks in advance!

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I have a RiF dash sat in the garage ready for this, but my main concern is the headlight switch.


I don't want to go from side light to dipped beam through a centre position that turns the lights off. What type of switch do I need for an off/on/on ?


Only dead fish go with the flow....!

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  • Area Representative

I bookmarked the APEM switches at Polevault here when I was looking at doing this (one of many jobs on the seemingly inaccessible back burner). These switches look the same as Car Builder Solutions' 'knurled ring toggle' range but the simpler single pole off/on and off/momentary switches are much cheaper (CBS offer the whole range at the same price of £6.00 + VAT). The product description tells you the application for each switch and they have wiring diagrams on the site too. There is also an inexpensive waterproofing gland option.


I reckon these would be a vast improvement on the Lucas rockers. Quite a lot of work though, chopping out all those Lucas multi-pin sockets from the loom ☹️


Don't forget that the MOT test requires a visual indication of the hazard lights and fog light being in operation, so you'll need some separate warning lights if replacing those switches with toggles.





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Thanks for all the help chaps. I see all the Apem switches are rated 15a but the list I got from another chap a while ago had some of the switches as being 3amp (fog light, washers, brake test) and some as being 10amp (indicators, hazards, heated screen)?


Any thoughts, will a 15amp work or be to big or what?

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Going to change the old dash out for CF and fancy modernising things at bit at the same time by using toggle switches instead.

Bit of a miss-quote there Toggle switches are 50s Classic switches so your not modernising but restoring the Classic look of the Lotus Se7en. Toggle switches disappeared from modern cars for safety reasons Sort of dangerous things in an accident But look fab on a Classic restoration.You can buy 12v LEDs from lots of suppliers complete with mounting bezels [handy for dash fitment] You'll need some diodes for the Indicator one *wink* Oh and no problem with the increased amperage you can always go higher never lower *thumbup*


Old enough to know better Senile enough not to care.



Edited by - Johnty Lyons on 5 Dec 2010 16:29:55

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Hi Finmac,


I replaced my dash with a RiF carbon one around 18months ago. I also changed the switches to toggle ones which I got from Richard with the dash.


You can see my dash here


Transferring the wiring over to the new switches took a while but I'm pleased with the result.


I do remember the toggle switches were APEM as mentioned above, they are very high quality, (as you would expect from Richard) the key was getting the correct type for each operation.


I will have the installation notes from Richard somewhere if you want me to dig them out.




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  • 11 months later...

Anyone got any advice on fitting the Apem switches?


I have issues with the mainbeam / dip / flasher, and the hazard switch.


I bought their MTS55 on-on-momentary, but I can't see any possible way to wire it so that the main and dip beams come on separately. The instructions Polevolt sent are simply wrong. I *can* figure out a way to wire it so dip beam is always on when main beam is on - is that normal? Surely you don't usually have both parts lit when you're on main beam, do you?


Then there's the hazard switch. The Caterham links pin 1 & 4 when off, and all of 2, 3, 5 and 6 when on. The Polevolt one (MTS56) links pin 1&2, and separately 4 & 5 when off, and 2 &3 and 5 & 6 when on. So there's no way to directly transfer the wires from one to another.


Someone must have figured out how to wire the hazard switch, any suggestions? At the moment it looks like either I have to rewire the entire hazard / indicator circuit, or find a relay that acts the same way as the Caterham switch (if it exists - might need two or more) and wire up to that.

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Well I sorted out the wiring in the end. The main/dip/flash was hardest, because PoleVolt has sent the wrong instructions, and I'd missed a connection when checking the various positions with a multimeter. After emailing PoleVolt on Sunday, I found an apology and corrected instructions waiting first thing Monday. Good service.


The hazard switch and the wiper switch were both a little challenging too, but I figured them out in the end. You just have to figure out which terminals to connect together in order to get the set of outputs you need.


As for lights, I'm hoping I'll be able to find the wipers by feel (after all, the indicator switch was never lit, and I've not had a problem with that) but just in case I've bought one of these. I reckon it could go under the scuttle top and with a suitably strong resistor should provide a faint wash of light. And now the Saxo boys will look up to me too.


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