Blade Runner Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 After a week of soaking in WD, bu@@ering up 2 allen keys, hitting with a big hammer am I missing somthing in trying to get these bolts out. I'm just a little surprised that I'm having the same problem on both sides. If its like any of the other bolts I've taken off, I suspect there was no grease on the bolts when assembled. As the car is only 4 years old and hardly been in the wet, I'm very surprised. Any thoughts or suggestions or is the hacksaw the next move Trevor ☹️ PINK and Proud and LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 sorry, thought you were talking about the lower wishbone ones. I can only suggest keeping at it with the 3 in 1. Edited by - millsn on 18 Dec 2007 22:03:29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tiddy1 Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Hack saw is the only option, Caterham use to reccomend locktight on these bolts but that soon changed to copper slip. You should be able to get a blade either side of the shock bush, you may bugger the alloy spacer but just replace that with the new bolt. I found that it was the bolt corroding into the allot spacer which caused problems and even with the bolt cut off I could not get it out of the shock and had to machine the spacer away! good luck Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blade Runner Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 Thinking about this overnight, I would have to make 2 cuts, 1 either side of the shock in order to remove it. I would then have next to nothing of the bolt left to grab hold of inorder to remove the final piece left in the wishbone ummmm!.... and drilling the final piece out would not be easy because of the other side of the wishbone......and all for a smear of copperslip. Trevor ☹️ PINK and Proud and LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delberts Wallet Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I had this trouble last year. Ended up having two new wishbones Gareth Blue and Carbon 6 Speed Supersport here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Stop wasting your time with allen keys- get a proper socket with a allen key head and use a longer tool to apply more leverage. Take care not to round the hex head off or your stuffed. Ive had this problem on both sides, but with care, persistance, heat, oil and decent socketry, they did come out. Needless to say, they were copper greased when they went back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 get a proper socket with a allen key head Never seen a 7/32 socket mounted allen key to buy in the UK - I have one I made . Still, it's not essential as you can get plenty of force on an allen key using a bit of steel tube or similar. With these bolts, it is absolutely essential to use the correct key as the metric one that's close feels like it'll work but then slips and bu99ers the cap head. If the cap head is bu99ered already, it'll be a case of getting a 1mm cutting disc or hacksaw blade down the sides of the damper mount to salvage the damper. Then have a go at getting the remains of the bolt out . . You never know, you may get it out, but I wouldn't put any money on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 there are a number of archive posts on this subject with a variety of methods. Try either a hex, star or spline bit, from Halfords or motor factor, that's a bit larger than the rounded off hole where the allen key went. Drive it in so it locks and then use a socket to undo. It might cost you a few quid but worth the time saving and the cost of ruining the wishbones. Also lots of heat from a hot air gun on the wishbone so that the female thread expands. If the bolt has corroded into the bush inner sleave you'll have to cut it out. Junior hacksaw should do it. New bolts, sleeves and bushes from CC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomB Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Well I got a 7/32 one from an engineers supplier, no ner ner ner ner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 As in earlier post, look in archive, but I seem to remember someone had just cut through the bolt head side and then used the shock absorber to bend the bolt and was able to slide the shock and bush off the remains of the bent bolt. They then unscrewed the remains of the bolt by hand. I think it just depends on how corroded or stuck in it is. Start with the least destructive method and work downwards! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blade Runner Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 Thanks for all that. All have crossed my mind. As I'm going away on Friday for Xmas I think I will let it soak in WD for a further week, try with new allen key/socket on my return and if all else fails breakout the disc cutter. Trevor PINK and Proud and LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 FWIW, I find PlusGas to be far superior to WD40 for easing corroded bolts. See my Build Cam for progress on the Roadsport Sigma build. Now with photos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobt Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 I've think the proper name for imperial allen key sockets is AF HEX. I've just a quick search and found them here: www.toolbank.com Search for the stock code number: STW49A732 Not cheap at nearly a tenner each (cheaper than Snap-On) but if it does the job its paid for itself.. cheers Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Likd BadBob (hi Bob!) I don't rate WD as a rust penetrant. I used to think they were all the same but PlusGas and some penetrating oil I got from the motorfactor are vastly better. WD is best kept for the bike chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BadBob Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 A trick to make a hex key that will fit a normal ratchet: Cut the end off (about 1.5-2cm) the arm of an old key of the appropriate size. Put a matching socket on your ratchet over one end, and apply the business end to the bolt. You still have a usable - if short - hex key left over. Hi BOS, not much building going on at the moment, too busy with work/visitors/Xmas. Back at it in the New Year and plotting an engine-start party toward the end of Jan. See my Build Cam for progress on the Roadsport Sigma build. Now with photos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millsn Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 third that, use 3 in 1 or similar. You'll be surprised how much better than wd it is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted December 19, 2007 Share Posted December 19, 2007 Trevor, Been there, done it! Just a couple of points that may or may not help! 1. If you have already rounded off the allen key head, it's unlikely putting the right size imperial or slightly bigger metric one in will help. Instead find a slightly bigger star key as this will 'roach'/grip into the mullered hex head better. Use the type that fits into a socket (1/4 drive is o.k) 2. I removed the wishbone/shock assembly to allow me to hold the assembly on something firm whilst hammering the star bit in. I also held it in a vice whilst undoing it. 3. Definately use as much heat as you can. I used a plumbers blow torch as I was changing the shock bushes and repainting the wishbones anyway. This will soften any locktite and free off corrosion. 4. If possible keep pressure on the socket whilst trying to turn it. I put the whole assembly in my vice but have successfully used G clamps in other similar situations. 5. Once it starts moving, keep applying penertrating oil and it should come out easily. 6. You will need to get replacement bolts from CC as they are imperial and high tensile. (one of the reasons I decided not to try and hacksaw mine!) 7. Just take your time! the more cheesed off you get with it, the more expensive it will be! Try a search. You're not the only one who's had this problem. Hope this helps, good luck! Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blade Runner Posted December 19, 2007 Author Share Posted December 19, 2007 Thanks for the Plus Gas suggestion. I will get some tomorrow and soake it for the week I'm away. I've already tried the cut of allen key but to use as a punch as the hex head bolt is recessed. I will try it with a socket, I was using so much leaverage on the mormal allen key I've managed to twist 2.Both were Tang tools. Last resort will be to cut or grind. Trevor PINK and Proud and LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 a thought on the re-paint once the bolt is out, Hammerite Satin Black spray paint is a perfect match. J Currently, I am qualified to plead ignorance. CA08 TRM Edited by - Jason Fletcher on 20 Dec 2007 15:11:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blade Runner Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 J It would certainly be cheaper but would it be better than powder coating...a whole new topic is going to open up here.... Trevor PINK and Proud and LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 One trick I have heard about, Trevor, if you can get the part into big chunks off the car, is to toss it in a bucket of diesel for a few days before laying on the spanners. It stinks, but it's a bit of a favourite with the classic car fraternity who might have some brown fossilised object that simply has to come apart and can't be easily replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blade Runner Posted December 20, 2007 Author Share Posted December 20, 2007 BOSS Thanks for that one, I'll put it on my list. Still soaking in Plus Gas. Trevor PINK and Proud and LOUD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian B Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 One of mine was cross threaded when installed by Caterham! It did come out eventually, but was a struggle 😔 Ian - MI 5EVN - Slightly Vider SVelte model 😬 now repainted to match the Autocom headsets 😳 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Faulds Posted December 20, 2007 Share Posted December 20, 2007 I can't see how it's possible to cross-thread that bolt unless the bush is twisted, but it's quite common for the thread to have a fair bit of powdercoat in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weeman Posted December 21, 2007 Share Posted December 21, 2007 I used to know a guy who worked in the restoration dept at the science museum. He swore by coke (the drink) as a freeing agent and would never drink the stuff because he knew what it was capable of. Might be worth a try. Be lucky!! Martin M7 KTJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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