weeman

Hi Al, long time no see. How are you? Jo and I were at Carlo's mid afternoon Sunday but we were with just one other Se7en so perhaps we hadn't been the only ones in the car park that day? We'd done a round trip from home via Poham airfield. Beautiful day, lovely drive. Be lucky!! Martin

Hi Alex. I wouldn't look any further than Messrs Greenald and Pitcher. Not exactly local but I think they're more than worth the extra distance. Ring Steve G and discuss your issues with him, I'd be surprised if you were less than impressed. Be lucky!! Martin

User Guide I didn't notice this thread and have recently e-mailed the same suggestion to one of the MT. I have no criticism of the of those who have worked so hard on this new website but I do get a little frustrated when it's assumed that I'm as computer savy as the site designers. Be lucky!! Martin

try here .

Only the bonnet and pedal box cover have to be removed to change the cable but it's a much easier job if you also remove the air filter and backing plate. A small pair of long nose pliers will also help.

Beautful 🥰 Can't think of many roads I'd rather be on.

We have the Starcom digital and use it with both the Peltor style headsets (though ours are home-made) and the in ear style headset with boom mics. We had to experiment quite a bit to find the right earpieces for the in-ear headsets but they are super comfy, although a little fiddly to put on. We use the peltor headsets for shorter journeys and find them to be oppressive and uncomfortable in warmer weather. The Starcom digital is very intuitive to install and use, though it took us a few outings to achieve the correct individual settings. It really is a good piece of kit. Ours is installed on the boot side of the rear bulk head, without the use of fancy fitting kits.

Yes indeed, that was Jo and I. Just popped in to book a trial flight, and of course to have some lunch. Michael, you didn't happen to follow us out of the car park in a black Scirocco? It would make perfect sense if you did, as the driver gave us a longer than average stare 😬

Hi Dick, I bought protective film from these people for my wraparound guards. You'll get everything you need including some instruction. It's a job that took a little time to get right but if I can do it anyone can. I did mine when they were fitted to the car and would imagine it to be a lot more difficult without. Biggest mistake I made was driving for 50 miles before I fitted the protective film. They pit very easily ☹️..... their price reflects their quality.

If anyone has the time this thread is an interesting read. Nice to see car being built rather than assembled. Some well thought out ideas and what looks like (though I'm no expert) some good engineering.

and thanks also to you Geko. You've both put me to shame with your research

That's top information Sean Thanks for your efforts

Thanks Sean. I did have a look on the CSR forum before posting this thread but for some reason wasn't 100% sure about what I was reading. 3 bar seems a popularly held opinion while Cosworth say 4.3 bar. 'Go figure' as they say in your neck of the woods

......as in the title, does anyone know what the fuel pressure should be in a 2.3 Duratec. My searches so far make me think it should be 3 Bar but I've not found a definitive answer. Thanks in advance.

but unforunately the nature of a market is often that it's not the informed minority that set the price, but the uninformed majority. Sorry to sound so argumentative, but I think in the world of Caterham 7's it's CC who determine how easily sold, a 7 is. Because they won't buy anything that strays from standard it takes away a sizeable chunk of the buying market. This does affect how easy it is to sell a car but I'm not convinced that it has much affect on the price. I think your idea to separate your upgrades into two parts makes a great deal of sense. In your position I'd seek Mssrs Greenalds and Pitchers opinions on how best to proceed. Be prepared for some straight talking though, especially from Mr P 😬

(it's always going to be easier to sell a car with an "official Caterham" upgrade) I'm not so sure about that? I would very much prefer a car mapped by the 'Two Steves' than one that had undergone the "Try that one Sir" treatment at CC. I doubt that CC send out their 'Press' and 'Top Gear' cars with off the shelf mapping? Generic versus Custom? I think the answer is in the question.

All CSR's are built by Arch and are therefore imperial. My guess is that a cage from a CSR will fit a 2005 SV. A quick call to Bruce at Arch will give you the definitive answer.

Popped into Tom's today Shaun and I see your car is in good hands It'll be interesting to see what he discovers.

Quoting diggerman: Why not just disconnect it? Please dont encourage dangerous mods. The inertia switch is there to cut of fuel supply in case of an accident and therefore prevent a fire. Peter I've had three experiences of Inertia Switch failure. Twice on the outside lane of a motorway at 70 mph and once whilst over taking on a country road. Never again will such a device be fitted to my car. Just an alternative viewpoint, not a comment designed to start a 'keyboard war'.

Weeman It is a car you may well know - Bob's old yellow one. I certainly do, Ian What a small world it is? I was talking about you only this morning, with Baz. I Spotted Bob's car, I mean your Car in L/F and was curious. I'm guessing that Bob mentioned our trip to the 'Ring' a few years back, and a certain 'tow trip'. I hope you're enjoying S7 RUN as much as Bob did.

A camber gauge is easily made using a small, magnetic, digital spirit level/ a piece of 2"x 1" and a flat magnetic steel plate. I'll send pics and details if you're interested? I find that the following works well; 1. adjust camber to 1/2 degree positive of desired final required setting. 2. set the toe to required setting. 3. set the camber to required setting. of course this method probably varies according to how inaccurate the set-up is to start with, but I'm guessing that your car was reasonably well set-up before you dismantled it.

The drive shaft oil seals are very easy to replace. Remove the road wheel, the brake calliper, and the deDion ear along with the hub assembly. Withdraw the halfshaft (with the hub and deDion ear attached) then prize out the oilseal. Tap in the new seal using a similarly sized socket (as a drift) and a mallet. Keep the seal as square as possible as it goes into the diff casing. Replace shaft, ear, calliper and road wheel and the jobs a good un'. A friend and I replaced one of these in about an hour outside the ski chalet we were staying in whilst on tour. ETA; a garage and second pair of hands are useful but certainly not essential. If you're capable of changing the oil on a car or fitting brake pads, then changing the diff oilseal is well within your gift. Edited by - weeman on 27 Oct 2013 20:40:15

Please contact Brian on 07956 212031 or e-mail; coleenayton@tiscali.co.uk

Advertised on behalf of a new member. Set of five Yokohama AO21R's 185x60x13. Four, only driven for 50 miles and one unused. £300 or near offer. Please contact Brian on 07956 212031 or e-mail; coleenayton@tiscali.co.uk Edited by - weeman on 23 Sep 2013 18:29:10

Light Blue (Gulf?) at 11.20 today (28th). We would have given anything to have been in the 7 right then, as we were just about to cycle up Uppark Hill What a lovely day to be out and about