Lennie

Simon the problem could be a blocked return to the header tank. This is normally the valve in the inlet manifold which is behind the metal tube on which the pipe is fitted. You should take the manifold off but you can clear it by poking something like a thin screwdriver down the pipe. You can check this if you pull off the pipe from the header tank and take the cap off and blowing down the pipe. What happens is that as the water gets hot and expands the water at the top af the head cannot get to the header tank and starts to boil giving you air in the system.

Graham The reason for arching is that the rotor was moving on the distributor spindle and hence was not alligned with the segment on the distributor cap. This meant the spark had to jump an excessive gap. The car would not miss as you were actually getting a huge spark [up to 40Kv]but it would not last for very long [the spark time].Eventually it is easier for the spark to earth through the low tension terminal than jump the gap.

Don,t take off the cover, unless you know a friendly gynaecologist. The only way is to cut down an allen key to fit the plug which needs to come out anyway to give you the level. If it's the first time the plug has been out you can expect a fight. Another tip is to rig up a funnel with a length of tube passed over the end. Run the tube down from the engine compartment into the gearbox and put the oil in the funnel. It takes time but at least you can sit back with a cup of coffee and not get gearbox oil running down your arm.

When I ran my son in 750 roadsport we did some testing and found this to be good area to get extra horsepower.As we no longer do the series I can give you a mod we used to very good effect. Make up a airbox to fit against the scuttle where the heater would be and use the louvres for the heater as the air intake. We even went on to insulate the box. You can then run tubing from the manifold to the air box and have the airfilter inside. If you run a windscreen, as we had to, you also get positive pressure inside it. We never could work out if that meant we took away the high pressure area in front of the screen. First time out Jamie set an outright lap record at Thruxton against the 2,0 Vauxhalls, although we did have some aero tweaks which also helped,but I will keep them to myself. If you ever see a German race you can see they all have this arrangement, due to a very boozy night in the pits at Zolder.I keep that to myself as well!.

Sorry to disappoint Ken, but having read your initial query I think you will find that the release bearing is actually on its last legs and will need the engine to come out. The spring mod stops premature failure of the bearing as it holds the bearing away from the clutch plate when the engine is running. Can you imagine the grief it gets when it is spinning with the engine at maximum revs. When you take the engine out, check that the nose piece is the current spec. This is easily done - the new one has a steel sleeve on the end about 40mm long. Any problems just get back to me. Len

Thought I should defend my reputation. The noise you are refering to that can be heard at idle is the gearbox, as the gears take up the backlash. When the engine comes up to compression the piston trys to stop, but the energy stored in the flywheel overcomes this resistance.The lighter the flywheel the more this effect is exagerated, hence any play in the drive train is apparent, supersport cams can also have an effect due to the lumpier idle. As to the original question the release bearing is a problem because of a lack of support on the 'nose piece' and the fact the original Caterham items were aluminium. The new ones are longer and have the steel sleeve which has a tighter tolerance between it and the bearing and should cure the problem, except that the spring on the clutch pedal pulls the release bearing onto the cover plate, which has the same effect as resting your foot on the clutch pedal! A mod is to add another spring, opposite the exsisting one, onto the pedal to take the bearing away from the cover plate this also stops the pedal vibrating when the car is being driven. This can take some time to set up as it will determine the height of the pedal. On a seperate note a formula one car with no flywheel and very high compressions slows the car with a force of one 'G' when the throttle is lifted due to engine braking.

Thought I should defend my reputation. The noise you are refering to that can be heard at idle is the gearbox, as the gears take up the backlash. When the engine comes up to compression the piston trys to stop, but the energy stored in the flywheel overcomes this resistance.The lighter the flywheel the more this effect is exagerated, hence any play in the drive train is apparent, supersport cams can also have an effect due to the lumpier idle. As to the original question the release bearing is a problem because of a lack of support on the 'nose piece' and the fact the original Caterham items were aluminium. The new ones are longer and have the steel sleeve which has a tighter tolerance between it and the bearing and should cure the problem, except that the spring on the clutch pedal pulls the release bearing onto the cover plate, which has the same effect as resting your foot on the clutch pedal! A mod is to add another spring, opposite the exsisting one, onto the pedal to take the bearing away from the cover plate this also stops the pedal vibrating when the car is being driven. This can take some time to set up as it will determine the height of the pedal. On a seperate note a formula one car with no flywheel and very high compressions slows the car with a force of one 'G' when the throttle is lifted due to engine braking.

Richard I think they come free with a new set of valves.

He probably had a ford escort axle fitted to the car.Best advice is leave well alone 16" wheels are only good for looking at ,the best wheel for your car is 13"

3.6 litres is o.k. I would suggest four for track days. Just make sure you have a caterham sump and then mark the dipstick at the four and 3.5 litre point.

Extremely straight, dry sump, 48 DCOE carbs, alloy spax dampers, limited slip diff and 5-speed straight cut gearbox, plumbed in fire extinguisher, bag tank, full cage custom seat. Engine has done 500 miles since Minister re-build. Now with all lights and windscreen and full dash. Not road registered. Suitable for 750 Motorclub, Centurion Challenge Relay Races or bomb-proof track car. £11,000. Many spares available.