tbhall777

Check the main earth cable between the block and the chassis.

It may take a long time for the ECU to learn and make subtle changes over time. I may be wrong. But I think you should not destroy the map that may have taken a long time to form fully. keep it powered and buy a battery conditioner type charger that can be permanently connected. There is a correct sequence to re-enable the immobiliser depending on whether it lost power with the immobiliser on or off. I am at work at the mo and dont have access to the info for reseting. Call caterham to find out or maybe someone else will be along in a moment. Cheers.

That's the stiffest position. Recommend you go to the other end. Use either the first or second hole, nearest the rear of the car. Start with first and test.

Anyone know the NGK equivalent to the standard Champion plug in SLR's i.e. RC6YCC ???

On the back of the standard FIA approved master, there are 2 auxiliary switches. One breaks connection when switch is closed and the other makes and visa versa when switch is opened i.e. off and take key out. Standard they are wired so that switching off disconnects supply to the ECU. The other aux switch connects the protection resistor to the alternator output, to prevent damage as engine spins down if the master switch is turned off with the engine running. On my installation, I have bridged the switch which supplies the ECU so that it always has supply regardless. You could just join the wires together, but having a bridge with blade connectors means you can quickly remove it when in competition; as it is a legal requirement that if the master is turned off, the battery is totally disconnected from the cars electrics. If power is disconnected from the ECU, it will loose it's map and will have to learn all over again. That is why your car runs like a dog every time you turn your master off. This only applies to the O.E.M Rover ECU's. After market ECU's in almost all cases do not work like the MEM's for instance. They will have a lookup table in ROM, which is non volatile. For road use bridge the switch. Also if the Rover ECU is kept supplied as I have stated, it will flatten the battery in a few days as the immobiliser sucks quite a few milliamps.

All items spoken of are available from www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk

There are probably 3 threaded bosses for the throttle pivot bolt. Yours is probably in the middle position. If this is the case, move to the rear-most position.

Not at all old chap; just curious.smile.gif

V7SLR Apart from yours failing; how many others have had this sensor fail?

BTB make the silencers for SBD. You are better off sourcing from BTB as they will custom make the silencer to your manifold. SBD will sell you an off the peg silencer. BTB have various jigs from previous jobs and possibly have the exact one for your model.

http://www.racecar.co.uk/btb/

Get 2 x M14 fine pitch nuts, preferably 1 half nut. Screw on, lock together and then turn. Re-lube with copper-slip, when putting back.

The car-coon system does not remove moisture below the relative humidity level in the garage. It works by beating the dew point by cleverly passing air over the entire vehicle. This is achieved by air escaping in a controlled manner via the base zip which runs around the entire footprint. I think the carbon filter bit is a sales gimmick. There is no way the carbon filters remove moisture (where does all the water go). The manufacturer says the carbon filters should be changed anually and thats what the filters are about (making money from after sales). I have a humidity meter inside the car-coon and it shows the same as the outside. But the system definately works very well. If you go to their website, you will see their add says we pay the vat for this month only as a celebration of the goodwood festival of speed. It's been saying that for month after month; thus encouraging potential buyers to buy now and save the VAT. A bit slippery me thinks. Never the less, I would recommend the product, it's bloody brill.

Peter C Posting. Chapter and verse have been done to death on this on the Sevens list in the past. In short the Avon Racing authorised version states: > * Disregard the direction arrows > * On the front, the four digit product number should face outwards on > the left hand tyre and inwards on the right. > * At the rear, the four digit product number should face inwards on > the left hand tyre and outwards on the right. There is no magic extra grip to be had. It is not the sidewall plies. The construction (handbuilt) bonds the tread onto the carcass with an overlap. Run the wrong way, the largest encountered forces could unravel the tread compound. If you disbelieve this, please go direct to source and ask Avon Racing.

www.mr-fastner.com

RaceTech www.raceparts-direct.com/ SPA www.spa-uk.co.uk/

Other people seem to have had the problem resolved by Caterham, so either Caterham make an adjustment or change it for a known non clunker, or fill it with boiled rice. This is normally done at the first service, when the owner complains via warranty, which is not an option for me.

I have just fitted a brand new (bought from caterham 3 years ago) AP Suretrak 3.62:1 LSD. It clunks badly. I know this is a common problem with suretrak's and can be adjusted out to a certain extent. The backlash appears to be between the two driven wheels rather than the input and output. These diffs are clever and quite complex in their design. What is the fix, what needs to be adjusted. Is it diff out or what to complete the adjustment.

I seem to remember an article in L/F "An interview with Jez coates" He was talking about the SLR and ACB10's. As I remember he said something along the lines of:- Front settings. Camber 0 to 0.25 degrees negative (any more than this will cause problems)?? Tracking 0 to a small amount of minutes toe out. Can anybody check this in the mag as I have lost or lent mine (I can't find it). I think that even 1 degree is to much for such a rigid crossply as the ACB10.

Edited by - tbhall777 on 2 Aug 2001 12:23:45

The spacer has the same internal diameter as the spherical joint. The outside diameter of the turned down nut has the same external diameter as above. The spacer goes above the sperical joint. Lubricate the turned down area of the nut with grease to ease fittment and reduce chances of it corroding to the sperical joint. It is a geometry alteration.

There is no left and right. The radius is not the same on either side of a wing. This is because they are not very accurately made. i.e.symetrical. Such is life.

Try Woolies http://www.woolies-trim.u-net.com/

Go to this site for all the K info you want. http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/DVAndrews/kengine.htm or this to go directly to cranks / bottem end. http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/DVAndrews/kengine.htm#bottom

They should have sent you a yellow form. This form is then completed and sent off with colour photographs to some guy, who I think then returns all to FJ. said guy in on th FJ payroll, for supplying his services. So you need to contact FJ and get a yellow form sent out to you.