SM25T
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Everything posted by SM25T
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Easy fix here with a hex spacer bar ... M5 male one end and M5 female the other, using the original knob.
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Anticlockwise I hope !! 🫣😀
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Often need a long tube on the end of the Allen key to get enough leverage. It can release with a hell of a bang. Wait until you try and undo the fill/level plug on the Ford diff. I use 3 foot long breaker bar for that one. Wear gloves and try and avoid smashing your knuckles on anything. These taper plugs seem to tighten in use.
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On the bigger gauges, I removed the rubber bung on the rear.
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WIPAC original glass reversing lights Series 210 SAER72
SM25T replied to rupertduchesne's topic in Wanted
Try Redline ? sales@redlinecomponents.co.uk -
Not quite sure what that means ... groups not members ?
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Redline Components
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Disconnect the splined universal joint at the lower end of the column and refit it as required.
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Don't think I have been logged out here yet. Not sure what you are doing or not doing !
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Hair dryer or electric hot air gun, but gently and not too hot !
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If you can feel scratches with a fingernail, you can't polish them out. Cloudiness can be improved with warm air and products like Renovo.
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Try asking at sales@redlinecomponents.co.uk
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As you know, jubilee clamps are not good for small petrol hoses. Wait for the correct size petrol hose screw clamps.
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I bought a trigger spray with the ACF50 but it wouldn't spray. Definitely needs diluting or heating.
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Fitting 4-2-1 to our 1.8 VVC k-series gave better mid range performance for sure.
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Decent mirrors make it simple 👍
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Recall the Northern Ireland club members used to work as a team of 6 (?) and build a car in a single weekend !
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That's a seriously compromised bit of hose 🫣
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Dave Andrews used to make them. It's only a scrap of thin Ali sheet
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Very pleased with my Protech one-way adjustable dampers. They were revalved for me by ProComp Motorsport, who also supplied new springs. The whole package including delivery was less than £600 ... albeit a few years ago now. These replaced the original Bilstein dampers which had been on the car for around 16 years.
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Drib Bling !
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Same as the CC indicator switch. Take existing wire off the gauge and connect to one side pin of the switch. Run a cable from centre pin of switch to gauge. Run new cable from oil temperature sender to the other side pin of the switch. Job done.
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Stu ... of course I'm sure .... it's been like it since Jan 2009 !!
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On our SV there is enough room to run the hoses outside the alternator belt. I really don't like the idea of routing hoses inside that running belt.
