Steve Cornford

Have you checked what exactly is stopping your seats going further back? Or putting it another way, is there any space between he back of the seat & the bulkhead behind them?

My Roadsport SV 2007 has metric chassis and only two pedal positions, but being an SV has slightly longer cockpit. What seats do you have? Maybe these limit your adjustment possibilities.

Glad to hear that you are sorted. Is that for youe Le Mans Classic trip 🤔

My 2007 Sigma 125 has Girling70 cast on the side of the Clutch MC (actually it loks as though it is cast on both sides but difficult to see due to the Brake MC) Hope that helps. Edited by - Steve Cornford on 4 Apr 2012 17:27:35

I tried some "Critical Mass" 7.4% at The Partridge....

Hi G7esp Did you mention on another thread that your speedo is not working as well? The speedo sensor is on the offside rear wheel (assuming all Sigma's are the same) and you should check if this working. Could it be that it is just the wiring loom damaged rather than the actual pump? Worth checking as cheaper than pump. Good luck with getting it fixed whatever it is.

C7**X Parked Madeira Drive in a spot of sunshine

Hi Richard, 1 x Standard 1 x Reversed 1 x Sigma Inside Please BM sent

Corrected I think you might be heading towards a prison ❗ Ok I might have to give in now & get an Iphone4 Edited by - Steve Cornford on 20 Sep 2011 10:58:26

Call CC and get them to look at it, as this does not sound right, failing that... When they upgrade a 125 to a 150, they remove the rubber pipe going from the inlet manifold to the MAP unit (the small rectangular box next to the ecu). This leaves the input of the MAP unit open to the atmosphere, but they change the map to suite this configuration. Things to check. The 150 has a pair of throttle bodies linked in the middle. If these are not "balanced", then you can get similar symptoms. Under your accelerator peddle there should be a bolt acting as a stop. If this is too low and you you have a heavy right foot, the throttle cable can put a strain on the linage at the throttle body end causing it to go out of adjustment, I believe. The econoseal connector on the Lambda probe, have you gone over any harsh speed bumps recently. Check that the connector is tight. Check the plug leads are on tight. You have to undo three bolts + a plastic clip that retains the accelerator cable in order to remove the plastic cover over the plug leads. Be careful when you replace the bolts, as I think some were supplied too long, and when you tighten them, they pull the brass nut out of the camshaft cover. SHould have one or two washers under them to stop this happening. It might just be one lead that is loose. ps dont check with the engine running Has your battery got a date label on it? If so what is the date? Have you checked the acid level in the battery? Are the sides of the battery bulging? Hope this helps, otherwise Blatmail me as I also have a 125 that has been upgraded to a 150, and we can compare notes. Edited by - Steve Cornford on 10 Jun 2011 23:05:07

Hi Chaz, Hope it wasn't too painful this time.

My 2007 Sigma has a buzzer. Maybe the previous owner has put tape over the end of yours to stop it buzzing. With your indicators on, feel under the dash for a small round thing! You might be able to feel it vibrating!

Hi Roger Welcome, and I hope you are enjoying life with your new 7. Unfortunately I believe you will need two different sizes, as the Cat and Exhaust have different diameters. Well at least they had on my Roadsport 125 There is a main distributor in London, whose price list can be accessed from their website I did speak to them a couple of years ago, and they were surprised that CC were using the zinc plated ones for this application. I am not as the Stainless steel price per clip could range from £7.60 to £12.00 depending on spec, whereas Zinc plated are about £3.00 each. Each car would need 3 of one size for exhaust and 2 of one size for the cat. Bulk buy anyone? ps probably best to actually measure your car for the diameter, as who knows there might be inconsistencies. Edited by - Steve Cornford on 23 May 2011 12:29:27 Edited by - Steve Cornford on 23 May 2011 12:30:44

Numpty question. Are you saying that any Lambda sensor from your list is a suitable replacemnt?

Hi SigmaSmith, After 3 of the plastic headed rads, CC "upgraded" me to a triple pass, but this started leaking in multiple places. I have replaced it with a Radtec radiator, and its been fine ever since.

Just ordered a Stormforce SV cover from Seven Speed, as my original cover from Demon Tweeks lasted only 3 years in the salty Brighton air. Thanks for the link. The sponsors link on the main L7C page is wrong. But thanks to Barry the link is now correct Edited by - Steve Cornford on 10 May 2011 18:12:48

Met the owner whilst he was collecting from CC that morning 😬 Lovely day for it 😬 😬 😬

SHell Driver's club downside... They have recemtly changed the reward scheme so that to earn the bonus points available you have to fill up with at least 40 litres each time... The most I have managed is 29 litres...

The CC sub-loom-high level brake light conector cable that I have, has go a male and a female block connect (for insertion in the loom), and then a lead about 2 foot long terminating in 2 female spade connectors (sockets). One wire is black, and the other blue/green. CC part number 76149. Is that what you have? Sigma SteVe

Have you checked the number plate light fitting, as it is wired into the rear side light that has the 7.5a fuse. My fuse blew a few times, until i traced a short in the number plate light, caused by someone giving it a bash (probably me!) Sigma SteVe

Hi Jeffi, With that cable and the easimap s/w, are you able to amend the fan switch on temperature setting, or do you need the pincode for that? Also how do you adjust the TPS? Sigma SteVe

Blue Roadsport s3, LX57*XY, Saturday 8am Were you PADDLING round the PIER 🤔 *cool* Sigma SteVe

Check you havent got a short in the rear number plate light housing. Someone damaged mine (ok it was probalbly me!), ever so slightly, and caused a short inside that kept blowing the indicator fuse. On my car there is a left hand and a right hand fuse. One is higher rated to cope with the number plate light. Sigma SteVe

Yes, I have been doing that as well ( one does get a bit though) Sigma SteVe

Hi Andy, The camera belongs to a friend, and I am waiting for a copy of any footage taken. I will forward to you when I have it. Hi Mick, Ordinarily I would agree with you, however over the 3 years and 36,000 miles of ownership, I have got through 3 radiators, and maybe the pressure induced by too high temperatures might have had something to with it. I couldn't have had all 3 from the "faulty" batch could I? Also, there seems to be a lot of advice on here to fit a fan control that is simply switched by a thermostat, rather than relying on a themometer that feeds the ECU, and then the ECU switching the a realy on, and that switching the fan on. It is possible that the ECU switch on point is too high and could be adjusted. I will get that checked out in due course, but it was switching off too quickly as well. Any way radiator flushed and alternate fan control fitted. Will try it all out tomorrow with a run from Brighton to Rickmansworth & back. Thank for all the help & support. Sigma SteVe