Blokko

Ah! that makes sense....

Here's a thought - as I have hex bolts on both ends of the can (unlike the photo, which shows bolts only at the back of the can), would it be an option to leave the collector in place and disconnect the can by undoing the bolts at the front of the can 🤔

Thanks for all the replies. Time permitting, I'll have a go at taking it all apart this weekend (putting stuff back together will be a whole different ballgame 😬) Some further questions then - 1. If I've understood correctly, with the two bolts / bobbins holding the exhaust to the car out of the way, the connection between the primaries and collector is just an interference fit and gentle use of a persuasion stick will separate the two 2. I've read elsewhere about slight exhaust leaks after taking an exhaust apart. I'm sure I've read that silicone sealant should not be used - what is the correct kit, and can it be used between the primaries and collector, or just on the can end cap? 3. As per the question from Grim, is the 2nd photo from mechanicalmoz what I should be looking to achieve, or is that a bit overpacked?

here http://www.turbosport.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=38581&d=1257357591&thumb=1 Edited by - Blokko on 2 Mar 2014 21:57:55

Given my last track day reading of 98.2 dB, I'm presuming that my Powerspeed exhaust could benefit from a repack. Being a complete numpty in this department, I was wondering if anyone has a guide for how to do this (as well as a recommendation on what type of packing to use, and how much I need to order)? Can the primaries / collector stay in place? I can see that I have hex bolts at each end of the can - is this all that needs to be disconnected, or do I have to disconnect where the primaries meet the collector? Does the fact that I've had to ask these questions mean that I should be paying someone to do the job My set-up looks very similar to this one - except that I have hex bolts on both ends of the can. Edited by - Blokko on 2 Mar 2014 21:12:16

Here...

Quoting AntonyH: Thread hijack (sorry) - this looks to be a distinct improvement for minimal cash outlay, but, as MrsH and I are differently tall and have the seat in different positions, how easy is it to adjust the crotch strap once fitted? (assuming, belts sit over the squab) Squab out is easy enough, but my guess is it's going to involve reaching behind the seat also... ☹️ We decided to fit the buckles near the rear anchoring points (behind the seat), which means adjustment would be very difficult. You could move the buckles forward to make adjustment much easier - but you would then be sitting on them!

Some info / pics in an earlier thread here. I went for the Caterham part here. From memory I think that included the fittings (picture seems to suggest so), but I know that it doesn't include the sleeves neeeded if you have a lowered floor (here). They always show up as out of stock - so phone up Caterham Parts and they should be able to get hold of them for you. I'm happy with the belt being on top of the seat - though I know that Guy is looking at having a hole as per a Tillet seat. Seats have to come out and I had a right game getting the old bolts off - rusted solid. Other than that, not too difficult a job (having a helper helps 😬)

Bob - looks like I'm heading in that direction ☹️ Grant, Dave - assumed that rad leak gunk would be a bad idea (was just looking for confirmation). So, is it worth the extra dosh for the Radtec over the standard Caterham part (£312 versus £225 approx. - without delivery) ? What does the Radtec give me over the std Caterham part?

We have friends with a 7 who are, notionally at least, based in Bearwood. They keep their car in Scotland though, so not much chance that you will spot them 😬. I don't think they have mentioned coming across a 7 in that area before. I'm about 15 miles north of Selly Oak. If you come across a 7 in our neck of the woods, it is more likely to be a Westfield Edited by - Blokko on 24 Nov 2013 23:50:30

Quoting Dave Jackson: it could just be water from when you last washed itBeen several weeks since I cleaned the car, Dave - pretty sure it is a small leak. Quoting Mavic82: Best bet is a pressure test. Do you have a local friendly garage? They should have a tester that would check leaks. You can make one with a screw in tyre valve and a spare expansion bottle cap and a bicycle pump with a gauge. If it is weeping, go Radtech, and they are not far from you for a visit. Cheers Guy Guy, I'm thinking that the people in Wednesbury who I linked to in my original post might be worth a call / visit. But maybe I just need to bite the bullet and go for a Radtec... Quoting Nick Chan: Hi Steve,is it a little bit of moisture from the air just burning off? Normally you might not notice if the weather was a bit warmer Nick Nick, I think it was going on for too long for it to be a bit of condensation - funny that it was all coming from the same one spot as well.

I have a dim and distant memory that there were all sorts of dire warnings about using chargers on my gel battery when I purchased it - but this was about 5 years ago, so maybe I'm mistaken. A quick Google seems to list all sorts of contradictory advice, so to be on the safe side I think I'd want an FIA cutoff in place to use a gel battery (I may well go down this route when the current battery dies assuming that retro fitting an FIA cutoff isn't too painful).

When left standing the car doesn't leak any fluids, but I've just noticed (in this cold weather) that when up to temperature there is a very small wisp of steam coming from the heater matrix and a bit more from the rad. In the case of the rad it is coming from the join between the main billet of aluminium (radiator head I guess you call it?) and the top of the rad matrix. I will keep an eye on fluid levels, but I was just wondering what options I have to rectify this? Presuming that rad weld type stuff is a big no-no? Radiator repairs, possibly?. Or is it just a case of biting the bullet and replacing? If so, are there any options other than the standard Caterham part?

Andrew - I'm assuming that this is a gel battery? If so do you already have, or are you planning to fit, an FIA cutout? I had a gel battery on my last 7 and it was fab - leave the car for 6 months and it would just fire from the slightest tickle of the ignition. HOWEVER, a parasitic load on the battery (the immobiliser) will flatten it over time and once flat it is a chucker. Also, my understanding is that you can't trickle charge gel batteries. So, if you don't have an FIA cutoff you would be in the realms of disconnecting the battery if you weren't using the car for a period.

Re-reading your post - do you need to bother with the hole in the base? Laying the belt on top of the squab seems to work ok! Whichever route you go down, don't forget to order some of these for your lowered floor. Showing as out of stock - took a couple of weeks for mine to come in....

Guy, I've recently fitted std Caterham 6 point (Willians?) to my SV. I think I have S Type seats - leather with removable squab? Phil helped me to fit them. We were able to slide the adjustment buckle rearward so they are behind the seat. Rationale here was that we wouldn't be doing any adjustment and didn't want t be sitting on the adjustment buckles.

Pirtek came good - branch not far from where I work. Spent ages on Sat am trying to get them from hardware shops and motor factors, without any joy. Will it do any harm to fit the Dowty seal in combination with Hylomar Blue? Edited by - Blokko on 30 Oct 2013 12:21:58

Three for me please.

Having trawled the archives I want to go for fitting a Dowty seal on the sump plug of my 2002 1.8k to try to cure an oil leak and I just want to make sure I get the right size before I order from Fleabay. The washer I took off when I did the last oil change has an inside diameter of 15mm and an outside diameter of 19mm. There is a link in one of the Tech Talk threads to ½ “ BSP Dowty washers - here. Would this be suitable, or should I be looking for a metric equivalent (M16???) Also, whilst I'm at it I guess I could get a Dowty seal for the rad bleed screw at the same time. Unlike the sump plug (where I believe there is a shoulder over which the washer needs to fit), I'm guessing I could just go for an M10 (bleed screw has a diameter of 9mm).

Just received a BM from Chris - think it was intended for Rob!

BM sent regarding draft reducer.

Travelling East by junction 3 at about 15:10

.

Hi Jonathan Tried to set up payment, but currently at a location in Scotland where I can get either a wifi connection or mobile reception, but not both simultaneously - so as a result I can't sort out payment Back home tonight - will sort out payment and delivery details as soon as I get back....

Quoting Jonathan Kay: Four? Planning a trip to Peru in a 7? Not quite - planning to use 2 on the 7. But with a heater and an Apollo on this car I'm going to have to think carefully where to place them. At least one will go in the boot to hold tyre weld and a few tools....