Blokko

Down to the last couple of items of significance...... Sold the 7 ahead of a move out to the US. Now have various bits out of the garage to dispose of. As you can probably imagine, I've got a lot of other stuff to sort out for the move and to complicate matters I'm also working away from home a lot leading up to our departure to pastures new. With this in mind I need to make things as simple as possible. There is a Club Sprint at Curborough on 22-23 August and where possible I want to drop stuff off there rather than having to make trips to the Post Office (some of the stuff is bulky / heavy or not practical to post). Collection is also a possible from Wolverhampton, Cannock or Bloxwich – or maybe we could get GoNAD's to work? Postage as a last resort on non-bulky items – to be paid by purchaser at cost. So, with the above in mind I'm not taking 'dibs' as such. I'll give preference to those who can either collect, or who can be at Curbs / can arrange for someone to collect stuff on their behalf from the event. Please feel free to post questions and interest on this thread. Some of this stuff is being listed elsewhere so please do not assume that just because you are first to register an interest on an item here that it is guaranteed to be yours – I'll endeavour to keep the list as up to date as possible. Car Related for Sale SV full hood. Asking £80 Now £70 Petty Strut. This came with my SV – not sure if the part is specific to the SV or shared with the S3? Looks like list on Caterham site is £48. Asking £25. Now £20 Rover K Series Clutch Cable (unused). List £26. Asking £15 Now £10 Sold Rover K Series Throttle Cable (unused). List £40. Asking £30 Now £20 Sold Caterham Hood roll bag. List £77. Asking £40 here To Matthew L. Halfords Hand Rivet kit. List £15. Asking £7 here Donated to NtL 2.5 litres (opened but unused) Halfords 5w50 oil with 2 MG Rover oil filters and 1 Halfords equivalent (HOF213). 5L oil is currently listed at £37 and the Halfords oil filters are showing at £6.50 each. Asking £15 for the lot. Curbs / home collection only Donated to NtL Soft Bits long shower cap as used on an SV. Has done a great job of keeping the car dry overnight when out on tour and doesn't take up much space when folded. List £105 (+delivery, but minus a club discount). Asking £60 To Shoots You Sir (Roy) here Soft Bits RE bag – SV fit. List £187 (+delivery but minus a club discount). Asking £100 To Pugwash Mark 😬 here Halfords 2 tonne jack. List £25. Asking £10 To Bryan C. here 1 pair of Halfords 2 tonne axle stands. Extend to 380mm in height. List £20. Asking £10 To Liam here 1 pair of 2 tonne axle stands. Extend to 480mm in height. Asking £10 To Liam CTEK MXS 5.0 Battery Charger / Condtioner. List £64. Asking £40 To Matthew A. here Pair of car dollies for moving your 7 around the garage. List £55. Asking £30. To Chris Alston Curbs / home collection only here Karcher 2.16 pressure washer. Very little use. Asking £40 Pair of Thule bike carriers. One set of keys. List £45 each. Asking £30 for the pair To Matthew A. here Oil change container and Gunson Eezibleed kit. List £6 + £20. Asking £10 for the pair. To Chris Alston Curbs / home collection only here here Non-Car Related for Sale 10 6 of Ikea garden / balcony chairs. Purchased for a party – used twice. Similar in design to those in the link below, but without the 'ventilation' and tubular ali is bare rather than black. List £7.50 each. Asking £4 each. here 2.7m by 2.7m garden gazebo (poles – not eze-up). Used once. List £18. Asking £8 To Chris Alston here 4 of Ikea aluminium garage storage racks (flat pack, unopened). 4 shelves, each 600mm by 270mm. Ideal for use in garage – look a bit flimsy, but actually very solid when bolted to a batten on the wall. List at £10 each. Asking £5 each (prefer to sell as job lot of all 4) To Bryan C. here Donation to NtL (collection preferably from my house. Failing that, from Curborough). I will leave it to your discretion as to the amount to donate. Caterham expansion bottle. Identified a coolant leak just prior to going on holiday. For contingency I purchased and fitted a new bottle. Turns out that it was a combination of a leaky bottle cap and water escaping from the windscreen washer nozzle. So, as far as I'm aware the bottle is sound. Donated to NtL Pair of square Paddy Hopkirk car roof bars. Excludes the vehicle specific fitting kit – but it appears that they are available on FleaBay. Haynes manual for Rover 45 Donated to NtL Approx 3 litres Opticare red 5 year antifreeze (concentrated, not ready-mix). Donated to NtL Approx 3.5 litres blue antifreeze (concentrated, not ready-mix). Donated to NtL 4 Yoko 539 185/60/r13 tyres. Collection from my house by a sprinter on their way to / from Curboorugh would be particularly convenient! To guitarguy Mark Dyson DC7 vacuum that we used for cleaning cars out. The 'brush beater' does not work – but I think it is just a case of getting a new rubber belt. Foam seat for an S3 drivers side To Alan (collect from Curbs) Edited by - Blokko on 24 Aug 2014 15:57:15

Quoting Jonathan Kay: That's a first impression... but on reflection? ;-) Jonathan 😬 😬 😬 😬

Rob, we took a certain 7 that you might be familiar with to the Palace of Versailles last September. We parked up on the car park outside the main gates - got a lot of attention 😬 Here is the car on the same trip at Château de Sully, just outside Bayeux - Thought that the Palace itself was so-so, but the gardens were really stunning 🥰

Developed a misfire under load on my 1.8k. Came to change the plugs and noted that the plug heads (i.e the bit that connects to the HT leads) on cylinders 2 and 3 were sooty. Does this indicate an issue with the HT leads?

Well, not 100% sure but hoping I've got to the bottom of this. To cut a long story short, I now think that the splashes on the windscreen are coming from the screen washer nozzle (as suggested by Mav). The expansion bottle wasn't pressurising correctly originally because of a duff cap. Now that I've fitted the new bottle (and the updated cap as Mark mentioned earlier (which is a different diameter by the way)) AND (crucially) I've freed up the non-return valve between the expansion bottle and the block it now appears that the silicone hoses are 'stiffer', that the water level in the expansion bottle is remaining static and that the hose between the expansion bottle and the block is now warm (where previously I'm sure it wasn't). The main thing is that temperatures are steady / within the expected range and two tests for HGF have come back negative

So, the saga continues 😔 Replaced the expansion tank and cap. Then drove to a garage for a precautionary hydrocarbon sniffer test and cylinder compression test. Unfortunately on the way I was able to get the splash of liquid on my windscreen (more on that shortly). The good news to come out of today is that neither the sniffer test or the compression test showed up anything to be worried about - but we are still left with the problem of where this liquid is coming from and why the coolant system does not seem to be running under much pressure (I can take the cap off the expansion bottle with only the slightest hiss from the expansion bottle as I do so). I only seem to be able to get the liquid splash on aggressive hard right turns. I'm wondering whether Mav was right all along and I just misunderstood what he was telling me (that liquid is coming out of the windscreen wiper nozzle rather than the bottle in the engine bay, which was my original interpretation of what he said). That said, if the water IS coming from the windscreen washer nozzle, that doesn't explain the lack of pressure in the coolant bottle. Need to crack on with some work now but planning to cover and tape all of the joints in the coolant system with blue garage shop towels and go out for a run tonight to see if I can source where the liquid is coming from...... Where the small hose goes from the expansion bottle back into the block there is a non return valve on a ball bearing / spring arrangement. If this is sticking, could that be responsible for the lack of pressure? Is there any way of lubricating this in situ?

James, I'll check out the tee in the morning. Mark, Mav - the cap currently on the car matches what was fitted prior to my ownership and is also identical to an old one that I took off my previous 7 (of the same vintage, with the same expansion bottle fitted). Going to try to get a new bottle tomorrow if I can. I'll also ring around some local garages to see if I can get either the hydrocarbon 'sniffer test' or a full compression test. Hopefully I'll have the same problem as experienced by Phil ...... Edited by - Blokko on 8 Jun 2014 21:40:28

Hi Mav Now decided to change the expansion bottle 'just in case'. Given my tight deadlines I'm hoping I can get one off the shelf from somewhere local. Failing that I'll go down the mail order route - but this will put me to Tues or even Weds before I'll get the part. I'd cleaned the expansion bottle and cambelt cover before going out for a spin, so I'm pretty sure that the presence of coolant on both surfaces means that it isn't coming from the washer bottle....

Picture of the cambelt cover after I just got back from a quick run (cleaner prior to setting out) - And a picture of the expansion bottle. Can't work out whether the coolant is coming out of the thread, or from the blow mould under the thread - Hopefully this points to a problem with the expansion bottle, rather than anything more sinister. Going to have to see how quickly I can procure a replacement part.... Edited by - Blokko on 8 Jun 2014 13:44:02

1.8k Rover engine. Round Anglesey last weekend the car would spit out a bit of coolant onto the windscreen once I'd done a few laps. Got back to the garage and I could clearly see that there was a line of coolant splatter from the expansion bottle onto the cambelt cover. I also noticed that the expansion bottle wasn't under much pressure (just a slight hiss when I very slowly and carefully undid the cap). Got a new cap last night, but it seems that the pressurisation problem persists. I haven't yet run the car on the road to see if I can recreate the coolant splatter effect. The (silicone) hoses are quite squishable, so I'm presuming that this means that pressure is low. I do get a rise in water levels in the expansion bottle when the car is up to temperature. I have previously (admittedly, a few months back) taken off the small hose that leads from the expansion bottle to the block to poke the ball bearing of the non-return valve to check it wasn't stuck. So, I'm presuming that my next step is to change the coolant bottle, either the CC Part or something second hand from breakers or t;Internet? I do wonder whether the previous cap was over tightened as once you get to the point where the top becomes tight, you can then keep on tightening. Is there anything else I should try as well / instead? Should I cut to the chase and go for a cylinder pressure test (seem to remember that this doesn't always pick up on issues)? Is it head-off time to take a looksee instead (not to be attempted by me, I hasten to add)? No oil in water or water in oil as far as I can see. No signs of coolant leaking out from the block - I can't see coolant loss from any other source (rad, hoses, pump). From cold there is some 'smoke' out of the exhaust (not blue), but this seems to clear after a short while of running. On the temperature front, if I fire the car up and leave idle, it doesn't even get hot enough to trigger the thermostat or fan (stays below 80). With a bit of blipping I can get the 'stat to open, followed by the fan firing a few mins later. At this point the engine is at 85 ish, maybe a degree or two higher. When the fan kicks in the temp doesn't seem to drop much. Temp never rises above 90, but once the 'stat is open it never drops below low-mid 80's. In normal running the gauge sits in the range 80-85 and I never hear the fan kick in - even if caught at lights / junctions etc. I'm as sure as I can be that there is no air in the system. The bleed tee is full, the rad is full, the bottom hose is toasty and the heater is blowing hot air. Brand new rad (Radtec), new temp sender, new fan switch, new expansion bottle cap, recent thermostat, seals replaced on heater matrix. Can't remember the exact specs of the aforementioned parts - think the 'stat is an 88 (with a small crease in the plate rather than a drilled hole) and the fan switch is 95-87. So, any comments / suggestions most gratefully received. As a slight complication, I need the car for a France trip commencing 27 June, but as of 16th I'm working abroad, so I really need to get cracking this week..... Edited by - Blokko on 8 Jun 2014 10:37:28

Saw you when I was heading up to Anglesey ahead of a track day tomorrow. Lovely weather Edited by - Blokko on 31 May 2014 22:16:52

Hi Martin I'd got to the point where I just couldn't tighten any more using regular pressure on the adjustable spanner. With a snap action I managed to turn it just a little more and, for now at least, it seems to be watertight. Will keep an eye on it over the coming days.....

So, to narrow down potential issues with the cooling system I decided to take the heater out of the equation for a while by bypassing it. I'm happy that I've currently got the system well bled, but I've hit a slight problem with the Radtec. The fan switch is leaking slightly. I've tightened it as far as I dare (brand new switch with new copper washer), but there is still the very slightest weep from there. Any suggestions as to what to use to get a better seal? This weekend I turned my attention to those "small wisps of steam coming from the heater matrix". Spurred on by this thread I dismantled the heater and this is what I saw - and So it looks to me like the O-rings have been seeping small amounts of coolant over some time. Being a Bank Holiday weekend I've not been able to procure like-for-like O-rings, but I managed to get round profile ones from Halfrauds. Used a file to smooth the surface of the plate and screwed it all back together. Initial warm up of the engine followed by a 15 min blat and so far it seems like the heater matrix is not losing any fluid (no signs of steam or moisture) - so hopefully I have a result here Edited by - Blokko on 25 May 2014 20:59:07

Well, despite Halfraud's saying over the phone that they did not stock O-rings I popped into the Cannock store having not had any luck at nearby B&Q, Wickes and a couple of motor factors. They did have various sizes in stock so I took a punt on a small pack of circular O-rings. Fitted it all back together, but didn't get chance to fire the engine up to see whether the new O-rings have sorted the problem. Might get chance to do so when I get back home tonight.....

Just jumping through this hoop now. Sunday morning and struggling to get replacement O-rings. Managed to get round rather than flat O-rings, but the plate between the matrix and the hose connectors doesn't quite clamp together so my assumption is that this will lead to leaks. Any idea where I could sort a suitable O-ring on a Sunday? Is it just a case of trawling round the DIY stores and Motor factors......

Maybe I should add this to my list of possible weekend cars for my stay in the US I'd never heard of them, but fortunately Wikipedia came to the rescue 😬

T'was I Here he the Escort in 4 wheel drift mode Edited by - Blokko on 19 May 2014 20:35:16

Now the job is complete, here's an update - 1. This is another (yet another) of those 7's jobs that took me much longer than anticipated! 2. As the packing had not been replaced since the can was first fitted, the hex bolts on the end cap were rusted - I had to drill 2 of them out. Managed to get replacements, but they are a thicker thread than those on the original unit. Going to get them machined down when I get a bit of spare time... 3. The internal tube on my PowerSpeed is not a constant diameter - it flares outward for the last 1/3 of the can (nearest the collector). This means that you cannot use a cardboard sheath around the matting if you want it to fill the whole can 4. Having tried a variety of methods, I ended up shredding the acoustic matting and dropping it into the first third of the can, using a long stick to 'tamp' the contents (trying not to compress the material too tightly). I was then able to use a cardboard tube as a sheath to fill the last two thirds of the can 5. After all that, the exhaust doesn't really sound any quieter - deeper tone, but not the hushed note I was expecting / hoping for. Does seem to be getting a bit quieter now I've got a couple of heat cycles through the exhaust. Will report back on noise once I can get to a track day to get a proper metered test.....

Sequential is very noisy apparently. Not an issue for track, but could be an issue if you do road miles....

Looks to be the same part number on the S3 and SV, so hopefully I'm ok on this one...

Quoting richy: Is it under warranty? Richy 2002, so just a little out of warranty 😬 Anyhow, something has just occurred to me - I've made the bold assumption that the SV rad is the same size as the S3 rad. Can anyone confirm?

Well, finally got round to getting the radiator pressure tested. They confirmed that there were several small leaks (in their words “due to aluminium pitting”) and that it would be best to replace rather than to repair. Drove from Wednesbury to Cannock to the new home of Radtec. They are doing a Caterham radiator build run later on this week, so with a bit of luck I’ll have a shiny new one to fit at the weekend. Hopefully the odd wisp of steam from around the heater matrix was due to condensation. We shal see....

Got the exhaust off - not easy! Getting the collector separated from the primaries took a lot of effort and had to drill out a couple of the hex bolts (rusted solid) to get the end cap off. The stuff that was in there seemed to be quite densely packed in some areas, but a bit looser on other places. The fibres nearest the outside of the can were burnt - dark brown, turning to yellow and finally white nearest to the centre of the can. Got onto the website and, lo-and-behold, they are out of stock on the Acousta-Fil I need ☹️. Hope they get some stock in soon - I want to go for the Taffia Fish & Chips run! Edited by - Blokko on 30 Mar 2014 21:35:24

I have a set of 13" Yoko 539's tyres that are surplus to requirements. I'm based in the West Mids - where are you?

Hi Guy One of our local 7'ers got CC Midlands to fit his carbon dash. Good job as ISTR they damaged 2 units before getting it right third time