SteveP

This is my Mocal install here I have since added an additional pipe from the second inlet (blanked in this photo) to vent underneath the car, as running as shown caused oil to be forced out of the cap SteveP

Seconded, get it done - changed the whole character of my car on the road for the better. SteveP

Colleague of mine had very similar on a Passat TDI and that turned out to be a split turbo pipe as others have already suggested. SteveP

Graham, The diary in the back of this month's Low Flying has Harewood on June 6th, but your calendar says 3/4th July Can you just confirm which is correct? Thanks SteveP

Just following on from the last comment, can someone explain what bump steer is and how to spot if you have too much of it? SteveP

For my R300, no more than 4 - 4.5K revs for the first 500 miles, but not straining the engine either. Oil change at that point. Then I gradually built up the revs over the next 500 miles, so that after 1000 I had the full range to play with. Right or wrong, that's how I did it. SteveP

Mine chatters away to itself at idling (something about layshafts I think). Quiet in use though, diff noise takes over in that case anyhow 😬 SteveP

Yep, I found that it was easiest to loosen the spare wheel to get at those two poppers. Others will say just ditch the spare wheel, but that may not be entirely helpful. Yes the boot cover is permanently attached at the rear of the seats. As for a basic guide, you might want to check out the link for the 7Faq site here SteveP

The rear suspension bits (ARB linkage, hand brake cable etc) on my new R300 looked exactly as you described just 3 or 4 weeks after taking delivery (in Feb this year). Blasted salt, but I had to get it run in you understand SteveP

Concur with the other replies as I had to do this exact same thing on my '89 xflow. Jack the car up, pass the battery towards the drivers side footwell, tilt to about 45 degrees and there is just enough room for it to come out of the bottom between the chassis tubes. I then drilled out the rivets and removed the old battery tray, and but in a new Banner sized battery tray in the same position - bit fiddly, but easier if you take off the KN filters from the carbs, as I found out half way through (doh) If you are swapping from the original xflow type battery, then the terminals are round. The banner has square terminals so you will also need to replace the terminators on the battery leads. SteveP

I have a set of both (also an R300), so feel as though I can comment. Firstly my 13" Minators with Bridgestone RE720, weigh about the same (although not measured) as my R300 15" rim with CR500 - if anything I'd say the 15" rim is lighter. For the road, the 13" are more comfortable as there is quite a bit more profile (60) than the CR500 (45) - it is noticably more "bouncy" on the 13's I run the 13" rims for sprints and personally, I don't like them as much as the 15" which I have also run at the same venue, but this might be down to the tyre more than anything - the car doesn't feel as planted on 13's as on 15's. The car seems to "squirm" around on the 13's which is most disconcerting. Perhaps I'll change my mind if I get a set of 13's with some 21Rs or 32Rs or something, but right now I'm considering going the other way - list 1A on 15" rims instead. The R300 rims also look fantastic (IMO only) SteveP

Make up your own dipstick from a length of thin ally bar (from B&Q), make some marks on the bar at around 9, 9.5 and 10" and then when the oil is hot, remove the dry sump cap, dip it into the tank so that the end touches the bottom (there are a few overhangs in there so make sure it is at the bottom). Read the oil level on that and around 9.5" depth is about right for my R300 engine. SteveP Edited by - SteveP on 24 Nov 2003 18:13:57

Dunno on the Airflow product, but I use one from Race Technology, and it's great (and small) See here SteveP

Not tried this again yet (house move imminent), but can confirm that they can all be un-done with a normal screwdriver whilst the buckle is still in the car - the main screw is a bit odd as it turns to whole cap against the spring first so it might feel like you can't undo it but keep twisting and it will eventually go

You won't get them at that price (think that they are on the Caterham site for £260 front and £270 rear, rims only), although they are cheaper if bought direct from Mike Barmby I believe. The 15" wheels that come with the R400 as standard are also pretty light (although not quite as light as the mag wheels), look better (IMO) and work well - I have them on my R300 Don't know of exact difference in weight, 1kg a corner ??

Thanks all for the responses - doesn't sound hard, just my 'anything I touch instantly goes wrong' paranoia kicking in 😬, hence get advice first. Gareth, no it's not urgent so if we can have a chat Thursday that would be great

I'm talking about the standard Caterham aircraft style release 4 point harness as fitted to my R300. I want to swap the passenger side "buckle" onto the inboard strap (like it is with the driver's side) so that when people get out of the car, the heavy buckle doesn't smack onto the outside of the body. I know that this is possible, but how? I started at the weekend by taking the small sticker off the centre of the buckle, and took out the retaining screw underneath. Cap came off no problem. I was then faced with two much smaller screws holding down a plate and as I started to undo one of these, suddenly there was a force exerted on the underside of the plate which felt very much like a spring would shortly be vacating the buckle if I proceeded any further. So I did it all back up again, and posted this thread. Anybody done this out there?

Around 19 - 20 psi (cold) for the road suits my car SteveP

No problems with my Tillets and the crash helmet, remember you can also tilt them back via spacers if you feel that it's pressing your head forward too much. SteveP

No experience of any of them, but the Toyo's are standard fit to some quick machinery (TVR, etc) so they can't be all that bad. Also, I saw a Lotus Exige running on them for a sprint, so must be reasonably sticky too (for list 1A) anyhow SteveP

'Fraid that I don't have a part number, they just 'sorted me some out' when the car went in for it's service. SteveP

James, The owner does post on here, but I also have the clear repeater lenses on mine and I got them through Caterham Midlands. SteveP

I too must stick up for CC here also. I have an absolutely standard R300, engine wise and really can't understand people who say the map is wrong or Caterham don't know what they are doing, as mine runs as sweet as you like. Pulls hard from around 2000 revs through to the redline at 7000, no hesitation, no flat spot, it just goes. OK, I have relatively limited experience on K series engines, but I just tell it how I see and feel it. Other opinions on the Supersport R conversion are just as favourable Boils down to whether re-sale back to Caterham is important to you, and if you need future flexibility for upgrades. SteveP

If it didn't pull cleanly in lower revs, then check the ignition leads and such like. I think darrenf on here had a similar issue with his R300, and IIRC it was this that was the cause, not the engine itself being temperamental (which it isn't BTW, at least not in my R300) SteveP

Purely a personal thing, but I prefer my R300 on it's 15" wheels - I have a set of 6x13" Minators and find that the car squirms about when pressing on, which is most unsettling. So much so that I'll probably ditch the 13" rims next year and buy another set of R300 rims and fit with list 1A rubber that I need for sprints Something to think about, and perhaps try a set of 13's before committing if you can SteveP