SteveP

RE720 I reckon, or heard good things about Toyo Proxies T1-S Have experience of 13" RE720, good but get them shaved (mine squirm too much because of the tread). No experience of the Proxies, although would like to hear opinions as I'm thinking of getting rid of 13s and going back to 15s. SteveP

Gavin, My dry sump tower has just one outlet and so far at least hasn't leaked or wept from the O-ring (just lucky I guess) SteveP

Good point on the spare fuse socket as, no, I don't have a heater or a battery master switch. Will investigate this some more. Many thanks for the input SteveP

Hmm, that wiring diagram might as well be in Russian. Clearly, I'm setting my sights too high on this one Thanks anyway SteveP

OK, first off (to set expectations) I know very little about electrics, and a car's wiring loom confuses me, but I'd like to add a ciggy socket to my R300 to power a camera detector and to allow me to plug in my battery conditioner. I know a fair number of people have done this and would appreciate some details of how to do it. I have all the basic tools, but frankly not a clue where to start. Anybody got some step by step instructions? SteveP

Franky, According to my maths, the radius of 195/45 tyres on 15" is 278mm, whereas 185/60 tyres on 13" is 276mm, so you are only talking a theoretical drop of just 2mm between the two. I've got 13" currently on my R300 (with RE720 tyres for sprint reasons) and I swap between those and the 15" running CR500 without messing with the ride heights so I think that you will be fine. here is a pic of the 13" rims. IMO, the front wheels look a bit gawky under the wings, but that is mainly due to the width (6" as opposed to 6.5" with the 15" rims) SteveP

18 psi is fine for road and a start for track (that's what I run) - you can always fine tune it after getting the car on track, although judging by the weather forecast for Cadwell, you might be better with a hull and outriggers ☹️ SteveP

You will need minor modifications to the car such as covering the battery earth strap in yellow tape and having a sticker on the dash to show which direction to turn the ignition key off, but it is all very minor indeed and is covered in the MSA 'Blue Book' that you get with your licence. Other things to watch is that you will probably have to run list 1A tyres in order not to get bumped into a Sports Libre class and you will also probably need a windscreen (aero won't cut it) for the same reason (at least that is the case in the ones I run in) As for classes for 7's you will be lumped into the Road Modified Kit Car classes (or equivalent) and they are typically split just by engine size (up to 1700 and above 1700), and you will be up against 7's, Westfields, Sylvia Strikers, etc - it's very competitive, but a friendly motorsport discipline. The only 'downside' is that you only get a limited number of runs (2 practice, 2 or 3 timed) and in terms of 'track time for the money', it's very poor value (IMO only of course) - the fun factor makes up for that though SteveP

I have the entry form as I'm a member of the BARC (Yorkshire centre) - can I use that? And within the regs it indicates class 23 as Lotus 7 cars - is this the correct one to use for 'our' event? Thanks SteveP

Give it some now 😬 Seriously, I kept my R300 below 4K revs for the first 500 miles, oil change, and then used up to around 5.5 - 6K for the next 300 miles. After that, I just opened her up. Even though mine is run in now, I find I very rarely hit all the shift lights as the thing is just too darned fast on the road SteveP

On my R300, the bracket was pop rivetted onto the top chassis rail on the RHS towards the front of the car (just under the front end of the air filter) - this is how Caterham built it, but I have a dry sump so with an Apollo, not sure. Do you need a catch tank with an Apollo setup? SteveP

Apologies for the continued hijack Peter, were you referring to the larger recessed bolt (down and right of black plug) or the smaller proud bolt (up and right of black plug)? Or are they both sump bolts. I have weepage from the larger recessed bolt, although it is not dripping, but it is doing a fine job of gradually turning the underside of my car into a xflow look-a-like 😬 SteveP

OK, for the steady bracket, it is labelled as follows: 77848S STEADY BRKT (77849 H/REST) LONG 38mm CLAMP and for the restraint itself: 77849 HEAD REST ASSEMBLY FIA ROLLBAR 38mm CLAMP So Rob, looks like you may have the wrong version of the steady bracket SteveP

For a pic, try here Yes, I know it's a bit of a hack up, but it works The threaded bar on mine was plenty long enough - still have the packaging the garage, will take a look and let you know. SteveP Edited by - SteveP on 28 Mar 2004 17:37:10

Rob G, Did mine today and it's a pig None of the pre-drilled holes are of any use when used with my Tilletts, so had to line it all up and then try and drill holes through the two steel tubes - this proved to be tricky and the drill press decided instead to make holes where it felt like and nothing then lined up Some extensive fetling later with a Dremel and it is in place, but by no means straight - the threaded rod from the stabliser bar is bent downwards in order to fit, but it's solid so it will do for me. I will get a photo shortly and post it up SteveP

Franky, You've saved me the trouble of getting under my car and taking a photo! In your second picture, there is another plug to the right of the black drain plug - anyone know what this is? As I seem to have a slight weepage of oil from it, and being totally unfamiliar with this lot don't know whether I can just tighten it up a bit with an Allen key or not. SteveP

The brakes on my R300 are just astonishing, but I do have over 3.5K on the clock now so perhaps they do take quite a while to bed in properly. SteveP

I don't have heater (or even a heater blanking plate), but find water pours into the driver's side footwell through the rivets holding the pedal box onto the scuttle. At least I think that's where it comes in, haven't siliconed them up yet to check SteveP

Bridgestone RE720 are available in 15" and are the tyre of choice for list 1A in 13" size - no personal experience of them in 15" though. If you buy these, make sure you get them shaved a bit to expose the softer rubber SteveP

Oops, sorry, just re-read the thread title SteveP

Is this a new style immobiliser then, as my R300 has a system where you physically have to plug a 'widget' into the dash (similar to those Vecta systems) to turn off the immobiliser which is actually a right pain. SteveP

Thanks for the input so far. Just for info, my system doesn't have an oil cooler (standard Caterham dry sump setup, tank in the bell housing) and the water was reaching normal operating temperature (80deg) Perhaps it was just a function of the cold weather and the relatively little load it got on the run out. Will try it again once the weather warms up a little Cheers SteveP

Get the interchangeable aero, then I can see how it looks before I buy one 😬 SteveP

The other thread on oil temperature got me thinking, but not wishing to hijack .... Took my R300 with dry sump out for a run yesterday, air temp was around 4 - 5 degrees. After an hour and 50 odd miles, the oil temperature was still down at around 40 - 45 degrees which prevented me from giving it a good thrashing (didn't see the other side of 5500 revs) as I don't regard that as hot enough to offer protection. When the weather is warmer, then it regularly gets up to around the 70 - 80 degree mark Just wondered what others experiences have been under similar situations 🤔 SteveP

Caterham parts will send you what you need - that's where I got my replacement from anyhow. SteveP