SteveP

As it says, I have the following for sale: PC SPEAKERS Creative T7900 7.1 PC speakers – 7 satellite speakers and subwoofer. Corded remote volume control, stands for speakers and all cables required to connect to a PC. Brand new, still boxed which has only been opened to verify contents. Came with new PC but already have enough speakers. £50 ono, P&P at cost. FISH TANK Juwel Rio 240 tank and cabinet in beech finish. Overall dimensions in cm (incl. cabinet) are 121(w) x 40(d) x 130(h). Complete aquarium package which includes hood, lights, heater, canister and undergravel filters. Also includes spare filter sponges and air pump. Everything you need to start a tropical aquarium. As new condition and a bargain at £175 ono (due to size, collection only - Nottingham area) CANON ZOOM LENS Canon 75-300mm f4-5.6 III USM auto focus SLR zoom lens, will only fit Canon EOS bodies (Canon AF fit, works with both film and digital bodies I can vouch for that). Comes complete with protective UV filter (which has been fitted since new), lens and mount caps. Mint condition. £120 ono, P&P at cost. Thanks Steve SteveP The Caterham Pages here

When someone posts a link to another website within the forum, is it possible to have that URL open in a new browser window rather than re-using the Blatchat window? I seem to be forever clicking on a link, then closing the window and thinking doh! Just a suggestion SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Hope someone can help me out with this. I have a Passat saloon (2003) fitted with the xenon headlamps. I'm also off to Europe in a week in the car and need to adjust the headlamps to stop glare. Now I'm pretty sure you can't just stick on those headlamp converters, and when I asked at the VW garage yesterday, they just told me that there is a clip and a lever on the back of the headlamp units that can be "flicked" to get the beams pointing in a euro friendly way So I've had a look and can't find any evidence of a lever. There is a clip that holds the back of the unit on, but I can't get to the O/S headlamp as it's obscured by an air intake. Before I do something stupid and / or have to take the car back to the VW garage, does anyone have experience of this and can describe how to do it? Naturally the 'owners manual' simply says to take the car to a VW garage if you need your headlamps adjusting. Thing is I'm gonna need the headlamps in UK orientation up until I get to Europe, so don't want them adjusting until then (i.e. by me when we dock), if you see what I mean Many thanks SteveP The Caterham Pages here Edited by - SteveP on 3 Sep 2005 18:03:32 Edited by - SteveP on 3 Sep 2005 18:06:54

Think that it's normal and will be something to do with the frequency that the unit samples the signal. On a bike, it's not too big a deal because the change in speed via acceleration or deceleration is relatively slow, so the computer keeps up. Clearly this is somewhat different on a 7, so it can't. My BC1200 responds in exactly the same way that you describe SteveP The Caterham Pages here

BTT from me - what's the project, Matt? Or are you keeping it secret for now SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Echo the comments, a fantastic day and a great circuit - up there with my favourites The staggered release from the pit lane worked particularly well, instantly giving you track space - could this approach be adopted at other venues? SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Believe it's known as the race track, Gareth SteveP The Caterham Pages here

I did something similar to what I think you are asking, details are on my site (link in the sig), under 'Additions' - didn't find a good way of mounting the light though SteveP The Caterham Pages here

And if you are more adventurous or are still bothered with pop-ups, trying using HijackThis downloadable from here. It generates a log file of all things that are running on your PC and at the same site you can have the log file analysed to identify what is and isn't nasty. Warning: it might flag things which it doesn't recognize as nasty, but in reality are needed for something or other. Be careful what you delete - it's useful though for getting rid of those pop-ups which dynamically stick an executable file on the HDD somewhere so that even when you delete with Spybot or whatever, it simply re-installs itself SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Alex, My fitment can be seen on my site (link in the sig) under 'Additions'. To empty the tank, there is a drain plug at the bottom so provided you don't fit it to low down on the bulkhead, there would still be room to get a shallow tray or something underneath to drain it SteveP The Caterham Pages here

I run 185's on my R300 (Bridgestone RE720) and whilst fine on the road, they just don't have enough grip on the track, far too easy to provoke the rear and am thinking of going to 205's on 8" rears (again list 1A for sprints). However, I also run 195's CR500 and they are great, very grippy indeed, and can't think I'd need bigger. So as well as the size I think you need to factor in what sort of rubber you will be using SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Info on my bike speedo fitting (also a Sigma BC1200) can be found on my site (link in the sig ) Mainly fitted it 'cos I can't see the speedo properly through the Momo wheel and it's miles out anyhow (about 10%). Works well and it's much more accurate. SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Yes there is although whether it is operational or not I wouldn't know, wouldn't rely on it. Alternatively, take a left out of the circuit and there is a station about a mile or two away (cash ONLY!), or take a right and head into Louth for some regular stations SteveP The Caterham Pages here

RichardO, You are quite correct - that is the part in section L that I have seen before that says they are recommended. Missed it when I read through this time, doh! SteveP The Caterham Pages here

John, Your not the only one. A friend of mine also didn't get any of the forms with his March LF and so missed out on a place .... SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Just received my 2005 blue book and section Q.3 (Safety Criteria) states "A fire extinguisher/extinguishing system must be carried on all vehicles ....." It goes on to say that handhelds are OK provided they are securely held via a bracket. Is this new for 2005? I don't recall it being mandatory before, only recommended. What are other people's take on this? Thanks SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Dave, 11.75" 😳, thought the level was nearer 10 to 10.5" ? (that's what I run my dry sump at anyhow) SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Not cheap though - perhaps look at a nice titanium unit from Raceco as an alternative? Tyre pressures for the road - 18psi all round on CR500s SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Mike, Under list 1A? SteveP The Caterham Pages here

I don't think that they are available in 13" (maybe wrong though), but I'm hoping to try Toyo Proxes T1-S or T1-R on my R300 on 15" rims (don't know if the latter are 1A or not, awaiting Blue Book from MSA). Don't know how much power you have and in the face of what others say, I just don't like the RE720s in 185/60 13" guise. Too much squirm and simply not enough grip at the back end. For 13" believe that Yoko A539 are supposed to be good SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Another vote for CR500's - had 'em on the car for two years, nearly 5000 miles, couple of hoons around Curborough, wet track day and they are still going strong .... SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Thanks Guy, I did wonder if it was to do with the increased risk of a short or something like that. I was getting kind of worried that it might do some irreversible damage to a sub system or something (I had to jump start my Seven the other day and just attached the leads to the battery terminals) Cheers SteveP The Caterham Pages here Edited by - SteveP on 4 Apr 2005 11:33:14

Just looking in the Owner's Manual and I notice that it says that you should attach the negative jump lead to a good earth (e.g. engine mount or similar) and not the battery's negative terminal when jump starting from another vehicle. Can anyone offer a reason why this should be? Cheers SteveP The Caterham Pages here

My LHS indicator repeater has packed up and doing all the normal tests I can't work out what is wrong (have power, good earth, bulb fine, etc). So thinking that I might need to swap the unit for a new one, I notice that the green 'live' wire for the repeater plugs into the headlamp circuit Econoseal plug. I didn't build the car so I don't know exactly how the wire fits into it. Is it just a straight push fit i.e.if I give the wire a good tug with it just come out of the Econoseal plug or is there more to it than that? Special extraction tool or something? Looking for some advice before I (inevitably) cause some permanent wiring related carnage Cheers SteveP The Caterham Pages here

Wouldn't pops and bangs under no load suggest overfuelling rather than running lean? I only ask as my R300 pops and bangs like a machine gun under no load or when you feather the throttle and I always assumed it was because too much fuel was going through the engine and into the exhaust Sounds cool but doesn't do much for your exhaust padding or fuel economy (I reckon I get about 18mpg at best on a run out) SteveP The Caterham Pages here