SteveP

Vanessa, I can only talk about my car, but 23mm offset touches the DeDion ear, any more offset and I'd be in trouble! The ideal offset for my car would be 20mm at the back (effectively what the wheel spacer gives me) The guy at the KN factory said that 23mm is the one they supply direct to Caterham, and 16mm for the 7" rim - the wheels received were certainly stamped 23. Just my experience, that's all. As for was it worth it? - only had a brief drive, but first impressions are a slightly more compliant ride, better turn in (although that could be the rubber) and slightly improved acceleration - aesthetically, I think that they look a load better than my old Prisoners, but that's just my opinion. Plus new wheels gave me a 3kg weight saving per wheel SteveP Edited by - SteveP on 6 Sep 2002 09:21:35

Thought I'd share this with you all now that my new 13" rims have arrived! KN Minators 6 x 13 23mm offset, 185/60 RE720s, switching from 6.5 x 15, 13mm offset 195/50 Michelins Fronts fit a treat but look a little lost under the 15" arches! Easily fixed, CF here I come The rears do foul on the DeDion ear (ever so slightly), but enough to scrape and would knock off the balancing weights. Easily fixed by adding in a 3mm wheel spacer - no more problems Mine is a 1989 DeDion BTW, so probably has the older style Ford hubs (i.e. holes between the studs) Just adding weight to things that have been said in the past on Blatchat, spot on advice and a big thanks for everyones input. Not driven it yet, will find out what it's like tonight! And a quick plug for Raceways at Donington Park Circuit - superb service, from order to pickup in 3 days - no connection other than a very satisfied customer. A quick question - what is a good tyre pressure for this wheel tyre combo? - engine is a xflow SteveP Edited by - SteveP on 5 Sep 2002 14:28:35

If we are talking KN wheels, I have it on good authority that the offset for the 6 x 13's are 23mm and the 7 x 13's are 16mm. They don't make an 18mm offset wheel Dunno on other makes though. SteveP

You can get them on 020 554 2281 or email to sales@burtonpower.com (web: www.burtonpower.com) SteveP

I thought that I'd update this with information received directly from KN wheels For the 6 x 13" KN Minator rims as supplied to Caterham direct, the offset is 23mm positive - they do not manufacture an 18mm offset wheel, but they do have a 16mm version. So that's that! SteveP

I do have a straight cut box (Quaife internals) and was always told that the losses should be less than a normal helical box, which is why 100bhp at the wheels seemed a bit low. Anyhow, once it's been rebuilt it'll be on the RR again and I can get an updated figure. Anyone know how much of the losses are attributed to the diff? I feel as though mine might be sticking a bit as when I turn the rear wheels at some point in the rotation it tightens up significantly and I don't think that it is brakes or handbrake fouling. All fluids have been checked. Any other ideas as to what it might be? Also, what would the 'standard' final drive ratio be on an 1989 De-Dion? SteveP

I've probably answered my own question having just been out to measure my existing wheels. Prisoners do have positive offset (despite what Tony Weale's book says ), so assuming 6 x 13 rims have 18mm positive, the inside edge clearance remains the same and the outer edge moves in a bit, giving that sunken look. I think that's cleared it up! SteveP

Sorry about this but I have a (another) question for people who have switched from 15" down to 13" rims When doing this, do you find that the inside edge of the rim to the wing stay distance remains constant or increases? The reason I ask is because of these calcs on offsets based on figures people have already suggested(forgive all the definitions, but I've been stung before when buying new wheels) : 15" Prisoners have marked on their rim ET13 which I take to be 13mm positive offset i.e. the mounting face is 13mm closer to the outer edge of the rim compared to the centre line 6 X 13" rims having a 18mm positive offset would mean that clearance between wing stay and rim increases by 1mm but the outer rim would be 11mm nearer the body work i.e. narrowing the track of the car If all of the offsets were actually negative (e.g Prisoner ET13 actually means 13mm negative offset), then the reverse would be true and the clearance between wing stay and rim would increase by 11mm and the outer rim only be in by 1mm i.e. maintaining the track of the car So which is it? People who have done it, has your track narrowed or stayed the same? Thanks for hanging in there with me on this one SteveP

Anthony, Would be most interested in your opinions on your rebuild once fully run in. Did you have any other mods done at the same time, such as 3D mapping perhaps? SteveP

Thanks for all the input guys, but I still haven't the info I need (or perhaps I'm just missing it). 6 x 13 KN Minators as supplied by Caterham, 18 or 23mm offset? Positive or negative? Can someone also define what is positive offset and what is negative - the reason I ask this is that information on the Compomotive site defines negative offset as the mounting face of the wheel is closer to the outside rim whereas the Superlite site defines it as the complete opposite. Also does ETxx (where xx is a number) mean positive or negative offset? I'm confused as again Compomotive list ET-xx as meaning positive offset ! I'm particularly interested as I have a set of Compomotive MLs that might be for sale and I want to be able to advertise them correctly! Thanks SteveP Edited by - SteveP on 29 Aug 2002 11:01:47

Can anyone recommend a good mail order company for Bridgestone tyres? Have tried Polley (and am awaiting a response) but are there others who deal more with Bridgestone? I've had trouble in the past getting Bridgestone tyres, but plenty of others seem to have no problem. I'm after 185/60 13 size - 5 off Will be trying BMTR tomorrow, BTW Thanks SteveP

Thanks Chris - I'd had a poke 😳 around before but obviously not enough! Screwdriver and torch it is at the weekend. Cheers SteveP

I made some changes and on clicking Submit I got: Microsoft JET Database Engine error '80040e14' Syntax error in UPDATE statement. /profile.asp, line 142 Tried it again, same results and the changes weren't saved. Thanks SteveP

Ever since having the car, the indicator ticker box has been giving grief. Often the indicators fail to work and waggling the ticker box in it's socket makes it buzz and then start to work, but with the vibrations going through the car, it soon fails - plugging the ticker box straight into the socket and the indicators don't work, it has to be sort of wedged in at an angle. Before I order one, is it just a case of get a new one, or is there something that I can do either to the existing one or the socket to get a better fit. Have tried bending various things but with no luck. Anyone else out there had a similar experience? It's a bit annoying when it fails when driving, a couple of waggles and the damn thing falls out all together ☹️ Thanks SteveP

New7er, I know exactly what you mean. When I first drove my Supersprint (also around the 35000 miles mark) I thought it was quick, well it is quick in 1st and 2nd. A rolling road session confirmed that it was producing 135bhp at the flywheel (estimated), but only around 100 at the wheels, which I found a little worrying - spec is 244 cam, 45 DCOEs, 4:1 exhaust, steel rocker assembly but standard pistons. Then I was a little surprised that my 'runaround' Golf GTI 1.8T can easily keep up with it once you get into 3rd and on - to be honest, the Golf feels quicker. The 7 certainly doesn't leave it for dead. Having now convinced myself that not all of the power is going down properly and the continuing the quest for the 'christ, now that really is quick' type performance, it's going in for an rebuild to the fabled 155 RK spec Additions such as the 3D mapping and a better silencer should improve things no end I hope. Oh, and the 15" wheels are going in favour for 13" on stickier rubber - should improve things a lot. Peak power is at 6500, torque at 5100, 0 - 60 I guess is about 5.5s, not sure on the others. SteveP Edited by - SteveP on 28 Aug 2002 13:03:23

I have searched the archives for this one, and it has been done to death, but still find myself confused as to what I need to order and from where. I have a 1989 De-Dion xflow (135bhp increasing to around 160 soon I hope) currently running 6.5 x 15 Prisoner wheels (plus rubbish 195/50 tyres) and want to make the change to 6 x 13" KN Minator with 185/60 Bridgestone RE720 (has to be list 1A for sprints) So questions: 1) What offset do I need front and rear to ensure no rubbing and correct track? 2) Previous posts have suggested a reduction in ride height of 25mm or so. I have adjustable platforms so I am assuming that this reduction could be compensated for by appropriate tweaks? Has the reduction caused anyone any issues? 3) Can people who have made the switch describe the tangible results - I noticed at Curb that almost everyone had 13" rims so there must be something in it 4) Where can I get this wheel / tyre combo from? Polley Motorsport seems favourite, but any others? 5) What will the approximate weight saving be do you think? Thanks SteveP

Paul22uk, Not wishing to hi-jack this thread, but if you are using IE then pictures are controlled by a setting: Click Tools -> Internet Options Scroll down to Multimedia Check the box saying Show Pictures Uncheck the box saying Show image download placeholders Hopefully that should sort it SteveP

I'd suggest that your cap is bust and you should get a new one. Mine is also filled with wire wool but it comes out cleanly from the rocker cover hot or cold. SteveP

Having owned a 1700 xflow now for just over a year, upgrade-itis has bitten (i.e. more power) just as everyone has said it would on this forum. Upgrading the xflow is not a cost effective exercise as the current car is great and I'm sure someone will want it as it is. Besides I feel a K-Series car is the best next step. I'm now probably looking at a Superlight (or possibly Superlight R, funds permitting) as the next motor and wondered just how important a dry sump is. Yes for peace of mind, but 2nd hand dry sumped cars seem few and far between. Main use will be road but with a fair bit of sprinting and hill climbing, plus some track days which I have so far shied (shy-ed?) away from in fear of oil surge blowing the engine. Does a dry sump carry any additional headaches in terms of maintenance over a wet sump equivalent? In reality does say a Superlight (or R) on sticky tyres (or List 1A for that matter) produce enough oil surge to worry the engine? I guess it probably does, but I'd like to hear opinions as dry sumping an exisiting wet sump car is expensive. Thanks SteveP

Mine also does this, and when I asked Caterham Mids to fix it they said there was nothing they could do as gauges of this age ('89 De Dion, VDO I think) exhibit this behaviour. A true case of 'They all do that, sir' - good enough for me and as others have said it is stable when the car is stationary. SteveP

Dunno on tyre pressures, but for the front jacking point I use one side or the other of the main cross beam (not the centre as I have been told it can bend) and for the rear I jack up under the diff (DeDion) The front does twist on lift but it doesn't *seem* to have harmed it any SteveP

Thanks one and all, Looks like I might have a tough time getting the perfect match, perhaps a better way to go would be to replace all wings with black - just seems a shame to alter what is otherwise a completely unique colour scheme (apart from the Capri smile.gif) More digging required ..... SteveP

Yep, I have one too - just adds to the experience, but then I've never driven a Caterham without one so don't have anything to compare it with smile.gif So it whines a bit, but the noise of the xflow soon drowns that out. SteveP

Thanks Steve, Brown Brothers as in the motor factors in Nottingham? Are you therefore local? (despite what you location says smile.gif) SteveP