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simon_h

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Everything posted by simon_h

  1. The job won't be too bad but you will need to retime the engine as the pump is driven from a small chain behind the timing chain, from memory, and I believe the dry sump uses a different one to the standard Ford one. If you can take it out and put it on a stand it will be easy enough.
  2. Yes fit a stack mechanical gauge for about £50. All your problems gone!
  3. I have pretty much the same as you, 1.8 k, roughly that hp, 3.9 diff, 13" rears with 205 cr500 tyres and 6 speed. I find it fine, acceleration is very good, probably cuts top end a bit and I suppose it's a bit revvy on the motorway. On the roads round my way and on track it's great though. That said a £1500 6 speed maybe fine or it may need £500 more spent. Hard to tell. A tracsport setup would be the best of both I expect as it's 4 fairly close gears then an overdrive when needed. I'd get one of those built into your box rather than risking a used unknown 6 speed tbh.
  4. The type 9 box was the 2.8l box. Standard Ford ratio set.
  5. Changing to flexis, even just at the allows the sliding calliper to do just that. It's restricted by the solid pipes going to it. When I put a 7 into IVA a couple of years back it was put as a note that it has solid pipes. Apparently it is (or was) an ongoing discussion between vosa and cc as vosa don't agree with it.
  6. Remember for IVA you need it to demonstrate good self centreing. May be better to have it set with the most possible for now and then get a proper setup done when on the road?
  7. Surprised your vvc has a coilpack under the inlet. All eu3 engines were plug top coils
  8. The standard air box isn't bad actually. I have had one on an engine dyno and it didn't have much depression at the 215 (real not rolling road) hp. The only mod was a k&n panel filter. Fiesta ones fit. You get cold air with it rather than the cone just getting underbonnet air.
  9. Normal EU2 engines had the MAP sensor built into the ECU, long bit of vac hose from plenum to ECU. VVC EU2 engines had a MAP sensor in the end of the plenum.
  10. simon_h

    VVC 170

    Good result. Looks like you run reasonably lean at the top end to me. Then again you have no cat to worry about.
  11. I got one from eBay circa £60. Genuine Bosch it looks like. Works fine.
  12. AndyL, That's different then. I know you can make the rear surface good enough like that. It read as though this was a home project rather than having some stuff made properly.
  13. The carbon ones cc sell are thin anyway. You will struggle to get a good surface to the back for it to stick down nicely at home I reckon. Why not get some good carbon effect vinyl and cover the existing one that way. Some vinyls are quite good visually if you hunt around
  14. simon_h

    CV Joint

    The outer tripoid joint was probably of Ford sierra origin but I doubt if Ford ever did the joints with a toothed wheel on. Chances are caterham have them made and fitted to a repro joint these days.
  15. Ian, Is it a short or long shower cap? Cheers Simon
  16. Garth, yes Sigma, and all the current cars, have sender units integral to the fuel pump.
  17. You could try this adapter box of tricks? https://www.spiyda.com/fuel-gauge-wizard-mk3.html Says it will work to adjust pretty much any sender output to any gauge input.
  18. Luke Stevens (Team Leo's) near to Red Lodge isn't that far from you and would probably remove both, have them rebuilt and refit for you.
  19. They will probably be the same ones as the s3. Don't think they do different for SV cars.
  20. When you lift the cam cover there is a fairly obvious lump that is between cyl 3&4 exhaust cam lobes (I think) that is machined round for half the cam and flat for the rest of the cam. If it's there you will soon recognise it. If it's not you will need to get new cams for the eu3 system to work.
  21. Can't see much advantage to doing this myself. But you will need to be sure the cam has the half moon for the cam sensor. That said I have a spare brand new bare plastic eu3 inlet manifold if you are interested. You would need to get the eu3 iac and tmap as I don't have spares of those
  22. Interested in the half hood please. Will pm later
  23. Derek, As said a Duratec conversion is probably not cost effective. As you have a lot of the good bits being a 150 a cheaper option may be to get the head ported and get a remap as you have reasonable cams and throttle bodies already. It probably won't get you to a full 175 like a premier power thing but that would get a bit more go and with a light flywheel it would be nice.
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