Sim

How's the Mazda box mounted? - It's definitely isolated from the chassis?

What does the MEMS and 5AS come from? - Is it EU2 or EU3 ? Supersport? Simon

And don't forget - there's no such thing as a daft build question.

Can I take the MFRU please? this is for EU2 engines isn't it? Simon

Make sure you put the Copaslip on the correct side of the pads See Here - Post 9

The standard sender is very exposed ( unless you've fitted the remote mounting version) and very suceptible to damage - I destroyed 2 going over plates into the company carpark before I realized what was happening . The symptom is low pressure reading ( or no pressure reading!) Simon

Can't help with the crank sender itself - Have you looked on Eliseparts? Are you EU2 or EU3 ? HT leads or coil failing ? The routing of the Crank sender lead has slso been known to cause misfiring problems in a 7. Simon

James YHM Simon

I probably have one, but I'm travelling to US this week and then away til after xmas. If you can wait til then , I'll dig it out. Simon

Do you have a leak in the exhaust before the lambda sensor ? eg exhaust manifold gasket. - That could fool the lamba sensor into believing you are running lean and causes the ECU to richen the mixture. Simon

Do you need to make sure you get right crank sensor pattern? - Isn't the 1.4 different to 1.6 and 1.8? Simon

You need to make sure that when you attach the rail at the front, that you are not straining the rear connection and causing a leak round the gasket. You may need to pack the front connection with washer(s) to get the rear attachment flush Simon

Nick YHM Simon

Do you have the remote mount kit ? Or is it fitted by the oil filter. I went through 2 before I realised I was damaging them going over the flipping plates at the entrance to my work car park. Simon

I chose to keep the modifiation as simple as possible. I've followed someone elses instructions, but can't remember who. I added a new relay to switch the solenoid. I used the existing relay in the MFRU to switch the new relay. I used a new short fused wire to power the relay and a new short ground on the relay. I used a new wire to connect the new relay to the started. Disconnect the battery. Attach the new relay - I fitted mine in front of the battery. Detach the thin wire from the solenoid on the starter and connect to new relay terminal 86. Connect a new red wire from solenoid to relay terminal 87. Connect a red wire with in-line fuse from the relay terminal 30 to battery +ve terminal along with original cnnections. Connect a black wire from relay terminal 85 to battery -ve terminal along with original connections. Hopefully all done Simon

I've installed it recently on a 1999 EU2 without a master cut-off switch. I could go and look at what I did if that would help. simon

You need this part from caterham :- http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=143 This replaced the rail that you have. This is like the first of the two you list above, but it has the take off points for temp sensor for ECU and temp sensor for the dash. As Ozzy said, you probably need a longer hosre to connect to the heater. The R400 rail is not the right part at all (where's the connection to the engine?!) Simon

I've got one that I acquired and few years ago and has been sitting in the garage for the past few years. From a quick struggle with the search engine, looks like the going rate is about £120 if you want it. I'm based in Maidenhead - I could deliver if the weather stays like this and you're not a million miles away. Simon

Just to be clear - the 'first point of resistance' is when trying to rotate the wheel - it's not resistance to tightening the nut Simon

from the Emerald web site:- "Please note that this is not a standard computer cable. It is made specifically for our Engine Management System (K6 ECU). It is also compatible with our earlier K3 ECU." It could easily be a null modem cable ie with pins 2 and 3 swapped and 4,6 and 7, 8 swapped ,but you'd need to ask Emerald - or see if its in the user guide

I've just sent you a Blatmail - assuming its working Simon

Hi Martin Has the Pacsafe gone - If not I'll take it as long as I can get it before Monday - I'm in Maidenhead, so could maybe collect Simon

Can I have the Emerald please!

Quoting evotell: Ok. I raised the front of the car and loosened off one of the hoses, what became apparent very quickly is that all the hoses got hot including the heater hose that goes into the thermostat housing, but the bottom hose stayed cold as did the bottom of the radiator. Isn't this the classic symptom of an airlock? I've certainly had this and fixed it by re-bleeding - not had to replace the thermostat Simon

If its a K series, then it could well be the IACV sticking