StevehS3

Thank you.

They were missing on my car when I got it so I used nylock nuts. Do they normally have silicone end caps like these?

I wondered about the clip. You certainly wouldn't want it coming out of the clip on track.

I have never run ZZR but a friend of mine rated them highly at dry at Cadwell Park last week. I am running ZZS for a mix of road, track, wet and dry conditions. They are good choice if you only have one set of wheels. I think I have read somewhere that they warm up quicker than ZZR so maybe not a bad choice anyway.

Sorry, a mixture of clumsiness and old age!

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/zzr/6974-tyre-avon-zzr-185-55r13-8018-compound.html?search_query=Avon&results=8 I got mine from Caterham Parts. Arrived next day and the date code was about 3 weeks before I received them.

I pulled this from the internet but it was what I was expecting to see. Lithium batteries have a far superior discharge curve (making more of its stored charge usable) but this makes it difficult to predict the remaining charge by measuring its voltage.

I used to think the same Jonathan but I have a Banner in my current 7 and the last and they have been faultless. There is little difference in weight between a PC680 AGM battery and a Banner (7.5kg vs 8kg?).

Definitely a refurb on those. I would wire brush, Kurust (or whatever is your preference) and finish with Simoniz tough satin black. I also wiped mine over with Lanoguard.

Hi Richard, which part of the Peak District are you visiting? Steve

Some info about my fuel gauge. It's a 2016 310R and the fuel gauge reads just over 3/4 when full and zero when there is about 15L (~ 9 usable) in the tank. The sender unit resembles JV's. My sender and fuel tank have alignment marks (see photo). After removal I found it very similar to JV's except it has what appears to be a shorter float arm. The float itself was already fitted inwards. The float rested part way up the pump similar to JV's before adjustment - this ties-in with the error I am seeing on the gauge and JV's findings. I bent the arm downwards to almost level with the base of the pump/sender assembly. The gauge now reads almost 1/4 tank higher than previously and looks correct with my estimate of fuel in the tank at the time. I need to full it up and take note of readings but I am confident this has solved the problem. Many thanks to JV for his guide.

Excellent article from the archives here http://lowflying.lotus7.club/2001/2001_09_03_Apollo.pdf

I used a pair of these to clamp the mirror to the screen. I am unsure if they were the 1" or 2". No risk of cracking the screen and the jaws rotate for an even clamping force. https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-clamp-2-inch/p/0343375

I have mine fitted as per the metric chassis build manual. Note the [thicker] spacers under one side of the seat rails. As Stu says, I don't think you should add more spacers under the seat runners.

If it helps I have seen 420s at Bedford where the drive by is 87dB at a distance of 20m. I obviously don't know whether they were driving in a way of being mindful of where the measurements are taken.

I am going back a few years but when I traded in my 3 year old Porsche they simply asked for photos by email and any damage - then gave a price. I expect they looked up the exact details of the car and service history. They never even checked it was in the car park when I handed the keys over. With regard to the 7, many owners enjoy servicing and repairing as part of the 'hobby' and I personally don't think it affects the resale value once it is a few years old. 'Upgrades' make a bigger difference IMO.

Does the warmth from the filament bulbs help reduce or clear condensation? I was unsure if LED were a good idea for replacements.

Great photos!

Sure. I just wondered if they are the exact same lights as Caterham use but available as internals.

Are these exactly the same as Caterham fit?

The piece of wood works very well. It removed the high spot of the touch up blob of paint without rubbing the neighbouring paintwork. I used T cut then polish applied to the wood.

Will do.

That's a good tip thank you. My touch ups stand proud of the panel.

Same as Andrew above. I used 1" ratchet straps which worked for the fronts and rears.

A couple of snippets from the Chris Rees book. I think the design changes were more important than the joints - I am not aware of problems with either.