StevehS3

#9 Thank you. I have 0.8L left over from changing the diff. I think I will do an oil change leaving about 0.9 in the diff as Aerial Stu did.

#6 Thank you. Mine has not leaked with 1.2L but having searched there is this explanation here /forum/techtalk/bmw-differential-have-you-had-oil-leaks-output-seals for the 0.8L fill. "I have been doing some research after comment about the fill quantity recommended could be 800ml. The Diff is mounted in BMWs the other way up ie with the filler plug pointing down. So the installation in the Seven makes the BMW Diff upside down?! This means the fill level is altered. Installed in a BMW the oil level when it dribbles out of the filler is JUST BELOW the output seal level & equates to about 800-900 ml. In a Seven the fill level is above or at the output seal level. Caterham quotes that the fill is 1.1-1.2 litres. So are we overfilling our BMW Diffs? And of course some of us are then unlucky to get a leak."

My BMW diff took about 1.2L to the fill level. Is in fact 0.8L the correct amount?

I changed mine a week ago. I really like the Mazda box but it is a bit 'notchy' compared to the Type 9. People have reported good improvements changing to MTL. I won't know until Spring. Also, I wondered if the earlier ones have GL5 in them. Photo from my owner's manual.

Cutbacks :)

The last two sets I have bought came with 2 new bolts (not 4 - am I unlucky or what is that about?). They did have threadlock patches.

Thanks John, yes it was that one. I too bought the sealant and I am doing mine today. If nothing else it should stop them rattling as mine are a loose fit.

I have probably posted this on the wrong thread. There was another about leaking exhaust connection and MoT emissions being lean but I couldn't find it.

I had assumed that the connections were simply one pipe pushed inside the other - hence could leak. I have taken mine apart and see they are sleeved. Although mine fit together quite loosely I am thinking it is unlikely to suck air in. Any thoughts?

A useful reminder. Another job for the over-winter fettling.

Sorry I made a typo (now corrected). Whenever pads are discussed there seems to be different opinions. Perhaps it is setup or wheels/tyres or driver preference... Mine has the later alloy front calipers.

My standard 310R had what seemed to have good front/rear balance little bite. I changed the fronts to 1144s and there was a very noticeable improvement in braking force but it seemed hugely over braked on the front. I then swapped the rears to Caterham Uprated pads (which turned out to be LP507 which can be bought elsewhere for £17!) and it didn't improve. I finally fitted 1144s in the rear and I think that is as good as it can be on my car. The fronts lock up first and ther is good braking power. The car's general setup might give a different experience. PS If you keep the CC AP fronts I would keep an eye on them for deterioration. These were mine when I bought the car after only 4000 miles and hardly any wear.

Were there different versions of the 1800K around that time? I think they ranged from 120hp to the 160hp VVC.

I have read in several places (including RRT) that Redline MTL 75W 80 GL4 is recommended. Is this generally preferred over 75W 90 shown in the handbook?

This website has the 360 listed along with other Caterham models. https://www.automobile-catalog.com/curve/2017/2515220/caterham_seven_360_6-speed.html#gsc.tab= Note it states approximation so presumably not an actual power curve.

#8 That is what I make of it too. I was thinking my 310R was EU4 but I am not sure it is with non-Ford cams, ECU & map, air intake, spark plugs, throttle etc... Age is all they can easily go on for our cars. I suppose that works to our advantage!

I would just check with them about silverstone as I seem to remember that requiring a full cage.

I think they changed the policy in 2021. Along with the club track days I have done a few each year with LoT and never had an issue with a standard Caterham track day bar (and no petty strut). My understanding is that the following tracks require a cage "In addition, all Caterham type vehicles must be fitted with a 6 point approved roll-cage at Brands Hatch GP, Bilster Berg, Dijon, Oulton Park, Spa Francorchamps & Zandvoort." Also note that tuition is not included for with LoT - you pay for that separately if you want it.

I do some track days with LoT (as well as the club ones). Note that a full cage is required on certain tracks. Oulton is one and I think Silverstone is another.

I am surprised they pass the IVA with rigid brake lines to the rear calipers.

Interestingly, I entered the reg plate of my previous two EU3 K series 7s (2006 and 2012) and both are compliant on the online checker.

Thanks Gerard.

I don't know which is best but I change mine before hibernation. My thoughts are that the new oil will never be 'old' anyway as I change it twice a year and the start up in spring is the most critical so I would prefer to have new oil for that.

This has been on my mind for a while. What if anything can be read by a normal ODB scanner? Why is the Easymap software and a specific cable required and what extra does it give?

No mention of a lightened flywheel on S pack cars.