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StevehS3

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Everything posted by StevehS3

  1. StevehS3
    I noticeably reduced (but not eliminated) the chatter on overrun, most noticeable in 4th, by two changes. Firstly changing the gearbox oil to Redline MTL. This eliminated the notchy feel to the Mazda box, although strangely it seemed to take a few hundred miles and just got better and better. The other was a very slight opening of the throttle stop which I think mine needed anyway. The engine braking deceleration was quite harsh in my 310R prior to this and it also noticeably reduced the gearbox chatter on overrun. It is much more pleasant to drive with these two changes.
  2. StevehS3
    #5 #6 #7 I used ECR epoxy coating resin which has a UV resistant. It's about £20 (the 500g pack is more than enough). https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/xcr-epoxy-coating-resin The instructions are in the video 'How to cover existing parts in carbon fibre'. The later steps show the stages of applying the resin and flattening the surface. I use a similar technique with good results for finishing paintwork that I have brush painted.
  3. StevehS3
    I made some mistakes but quite enjoyed the refurbishment over winter. I could make a better job next time. Before during and after.
  4. StevehS3
    #17 thank you James. Appreciate your thoughts as I think that is the way many of us will be going.
  5. StevehS3
    #33 Interestingly my 310R has a little flat spot at just under 3000 RPM. If I gradually accelerate through that range it is noticeable (but not a problem).
  6. StevehS3
    #31 Agree. There is some great nuggets of information in here. Some reports of mapping experiences will add to it and help others.
  7. StevehS3
    Thank you very much John and CC for the speedy reply. I agree that the original CC map should be good. Perhaps in some cases the cars have been re-mapped by the person that did it originally. TPS setting, throttle stop and ensuring the exhaust primaries aren't leaking would be good checks. I have had noticeable improvements by the slightest adjustment (barely visible on the screw) of the throttle stop and sealing the primaries.
  8. StevehS3
    That's great John - thank you. I certainly don't feel like I properly understand why so many cars need to be re-mapped.
  9. StevehS3
    #13 I was wondering what a generic map actually is. Taking the 310 as an example, is that simply a map for a Sigma Ti-VCT engine (and let the lambda sort the rest out!) or has a 310 Caterham with the correct cams, air intake etc been mapped on a rolling road? My assumption is the latter but then I struggle to understand what is so greatly different between one 310 engine and another. It would be good to have input from CC on technical questions.
  10. StevehS3
    So many have reported good results in terms of drivability and fuel economy from a rolling road session for a variety of engines including Sigma and Duratec. You would expect CC would use one of the reputable rolling roads for mapping a new car/engine. I find it hard to believe that each individual engine needs its own bespoke map. I have wondered if it is more to do with the lack of sophisticated idle control such as idle air control valves and the sensitivity of the TPS and throttle stop rather than differences in the engines. Any thoughts? #9 Please do let us know how it goes. We need more experiences like this.
  11. StevehS3
    I can see why you want to have the pops and bangs on overrun taken away. Can they re-map your existing ECU? Please let us know how it all goes and how the car feels after the upgrades.
  12. StevehS3
    When the pipes are separated you can see a line where the collectors end. I applied masking tape at the join to make cleaning up easier afterwards. I didn't want to apply more than necessary in case I need to separate them in the future. I applied a bead about 5mm wide. It is fully sealed and doesn't rattle.
  13. StevehS3
    Reporting back after sealing my primaries with Permatex. My primaries were perhaps a looser fit than most (see here ) but sealing them has made a noticeable difference. Firstly the pops and bangs on overrun have been toned down and secondly it seems to be using noticeably less fuel, although I can't quantify that because I never checked before. Presumably it was drawing in air upstream of the lambda and hence causing it to run rich. I will be interested to see the emissions test at MOT time.
  14. StevehS3

    Oil temperature

    StevehS3 replied to JeWe's topic in TechTalk

    My 310R Sigma has a heat exchanger which I believe uses the coolant to warm the oil after a cold-start and also to help reduce the maximum oil temperature. I think it is a Motul product. There is some info here: https://premierpowerengines.com/ford-mototorsport-heat-exchangers/ I did a track day last year on the hottest day of the year and the water temp and oil pressure were exactly as normal.
  15. StevehS3

    420R emissions

    StevehS3 replied to Bucko's topic in TechTalk

    I don't know much about the MBE ECU but would it allow the mixture to be changed by such a large amount even if called for by the lambda?
  16. StevehS3
    They should be set from the factory at 1.1mm. They are available here at a reasonable price and a reputable supplier. https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-64079-ngk-ltr7ix-11-6510-iridium-ix-spark-plug-sparkplug-taper-cut-ground-electrode.aspx
  17. StevehS3
    These are the ones to use https://caterhamparts.co.uk/spark-plugs/5494-spark-plug-sigma-race-ltr7ix-11.html. They come with the correct gap so no need to adjust. They are iridium so have a very long life. I will change mine at 30,000 miles although that is probably early.
  18. StevehS3
    It looks very much like the indicator buzzer. They are very often covered up or removed as the sound is annoying. If yours didn't have a loud sound (like a piece buzzer sound - not a click) with an indicator on, perhaps a previous owner has clipped the wires? it is located roughly behind the tacho. See here - page 2 at the end /forum/techtalk/indicator-bleeper
  19. StevehS3
    I have taken this up with Caerbont. The upshot is that it would need raising with Caterham to get it looked into as the gauge is a proprietary part to their specification. They did say that it is CAN signal driven. Photo of Caterham Parts website. Perhaps I got a good one!
  20. StevehS3
    Sorry, I should have said CP. If you need more they are around £20 elsewhere instead of the £62 that Caterham charge.
  21. StevehS3
    The photo is for CC but they supply LP. I ordered in September last year and received LPs which are just ordinary cheap pads as far as I know, although probably better than the AP type. The CC type hasn't been manufactured for quite a while.
  22. StevehS3
    #10 Caterham no longer supply LP507CC pads. The CP are not the same compound and I found them to have very little bite. I replaced them.
  23. StevehS3
    The tacho is EET3-1B32-95B. Photos attached. Actually mine reads approx 180RPM with the engine off so that's some of the error found!
  24. StevehS3
    #21 The metal strap is in the way to see the other number. I will take another look. #22 I will check the calibration at other RPM to get a better understanding. It may be that it is accurate higher in the range and the 6,500 to 7,600 area of interest :)
  25. StevehS3
    #19 Well worked out! I will check another couple of RPM points to understand a bit more.
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