MADMALC

Stay cool H it will be OK.

Put a few layers of clingfilm over the master cylinder filling point and screw the cap back on. Also tie the hoses in a vertical plane so the open end is as high as you can get it. Don't let anyone push the brake pedal !!! A note on the dash as a reminder is the only way to minimise this happening.

Yes. I find Tipex is best for marking things. The brush version is ok but the ones with a ball valve are better. Mark the rod and the track rod end and count the number of turns carefully and write it down.

Item 2: Correct the choke is not used. Just pump the accelerator 5 or 6 times to prime the carbs prior to starting.

Just had a look but can not find anything, sorry. I remember there was a 'heat' range for different plugs and once you had the tuning right you just kept changing to 'hotter' or 'colder' ones till you found the one for your engine. The experts will be back with information for you I am sure.

To start my 1700 super sprint I pushed accelerator to the floor 4/6 times before starting then tickled it as it fired. The choke was never even attached to mine so was never used. I will try and look up which plugs I had.

I would agree that it is normal. In traffic I found it easiest to dip the clutch and coast where possible.

As I am reading it the bias valve is adjustable and it is not indicated which line it is in nor is it stated which way the adjustment is at the moment If the bias was currently limiting rear pressure it could be adjusted to increase rear pressure. Not withstanding any of the above if the rear brakes are not getting hot then something is stopping them from working.

Hi T, I may be under thinking this but my observations are: Even poor pads will get hot if being worked so if you are sure the rears are not getting hot it means they are not being used and changing friction material will not change this. As you say you have a bias valve why not take some bias off the fronts and put more on the back to get the rears to do more work. My SLR had the adjuster and this what I did but be cautious as the last thing you need is the rears doing excessive work when it is wet and slippy. A bit of cautious trial and error with the bias valve would be my first action. Once you have experience you can then have a wet and dry setting for the bias valve if you so wish. Only when the rears are actually trying to do some work and being over faced with heat would I look at upgrading the rear pads.

The Incredible Hulk has some use ones available!!!!!!!!!!

Are you sure it is under reading, the oil takes a long time to get hot especially in the current ambient temperatures. Try swapping the senders round and see if things change but my guess is they are both the same.

I have to confess I never got as far as 'tergiversating', as I was so appalled and disgusted by what I was reading that I moved on. I am normally a very tolerant person but there comes a time when enough is enough and I think that time has arrived.

Agree with above as a start. Do not be tempted to to 'play' with the accelerator pedal until the car has started as this tends to upset the system. Also try putting jump leads on when it is cold so you know you have full cranking voltage available. If the voltage is low the ECU does not like it and could be playing up as a result. A cold battery is not a happy one and it may be that yours has poor cold weather performance.

The secret with the original Simonize is to do it indoors and put the polish onto a small area (9 inches by 9 inches) and remove immediately. Do not let the polish 'haze' form. Small areas and speed are the keys.

Paul YHM.

Hi Paul, Is this any use https://www.lotus7.club/forum/sale/spring-sale-wings-hood-catalytic-coverter-plus-lots-more-have-look M.

Are you still requiring a hood? I have one available.

Are you still requiring a hood? I have one available.

I would start by asking the party you purchased it from. An infra red thermometer like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=infrared+thermometer&tag=mh0a9-21&index=aps&hvadid=2978598332&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&ref=pd_sl_5p3k5yv24i_e will help to see if the thermostat is there and operating.

Are you certain it has a thermostat fitted? My SLR had the same issue and when questioned Caterham replied that they thought the engine was for racing so did not fit one. They fitted one FOC and it then had a 'normal' temperature reading.

Having taken out 2 dry sumps I agree with the two above. I would not drive in anger till you sort that pipe work out, it WILL get wiped out.

I can confirm it was Robins car. Please respond when you read these posts, thank you. loflmands.

Have look here: https://www.lotus7.club/forum/sale/185-bhp-live-axle-ford-xflow-%C2%A37500. If you put Robin Oldfield in the search facility found at the top of most pages you will get some history. loflmands. (Lots OF Love Malcolm AND Shirley)

Hi again, my wife is certain that the plate is for Robin's car. When we knew the car in the 1990s it was the roughest looking car in the paddock (may be Dick Dixon's was in the same league) but it was seriously quick, and I mean quick. Robin used to delight in beating the newer, gleaming and more powerful sevens with his, shall we say, less than perfect looking car. The engine was possibly one of the most powerful X-flows around at the time, this combined with the low weight of this 7 and Robin's undoubted driving skills made him difficult to beat in his class. It appears to have had considerable.restoration since we last saw it. The colour was ally and 'lotus' green, It was a paleish green. The roll bar was a one off construction and looked like no other 7 roll bar. The body and trim were 'shabby sheek', no expense was ever made to make it look good but considerable expense was made on the mechanicals. The last two outings I remember were to Harewood and Curborough when all he could manage was to drive the course. All rallied round to take it to the events and change wheels etc for him so he had enough energy for the few minutes of driving. A top man much missed by all that knew him.

Hi from Yorkshire. I think this car may have belonged to the late Robin Oldfield who was the Pennine AO and was indeed used for sprints and hill climbs. I will check my photo albums to see if the reg is correct but the Irish and Irvine history is as Robins car. Mad Malc. Malcolm McGovern.