MADMALC
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Everything posted by MADMALC
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'The looms are made by a sub-contractor, so apart from pushing the price CC are not to blame for this' CC do not make anything, which is handy, as it would appear that it absolves them from blame for any issues that appear in their products. Nothing appears to have changed at CC over the years, QC is still not what it should be. Very pleased that you have solved your issue, it is fortunately or may be unfortunately part of the CC experience.
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Have you put 12 volts directly to the fan to test that it works? Are you confident that the thermostat is opening? Both top and bottom hoses should be very hot.
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ALDI are selling their 'fully automatic microprocessor controlled charger' at £12.99 from Thursday 7th February.
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In 1998 on the way to Beverly for the SVA I was 'picked up' by a marked police car. He followed me for several miles in which time I presume he checked to see what was booked in that day. He turned off and left me to it. It is a very strange experience driving a car on the road knowing that it does not have a registration number. I hope your car passes and remember to try and enjoy the experience.
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£228 was the winning bid so who are you.
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The later ones (which this looks like judging by the number) were in one of their end of range 'sales'. I purchased one with the stainless steel bracelet for roughly £190 delivered. As I remember, the ones with the leather bracelet were a lot cheaper.
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https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/mechanical-oil-pressure-guage-part-list The last entry is the cheapest way to do the job that I could find.
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I now have the answer for those who 'search' in the future. The simplest and cheapest (good old Yorkshire trait) is as follows. 1 MMS5-3-45 1 WC-M12 1 OPG100 1 GL10 Total cost including the club discount, VAT and carriage is £59.59. That makes a substantial saving over replacing the sender. You do not need a 10 foot tube but they are cheaper than a shorter one so why not?
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Thanks S.
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Thanks SM much appreciated.
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I have seen the list that includes parts for the BIG light but I just need the list of parts for replacing the gauge on its own. It is a 1.8 2003 K VVC. Sorry I am not bright enough to know which parts to delete, any help from those that have done it would be appreciated.
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Don't keep topping it up, if the warning light is off there is enough fluid in the system. If you keep topping it up it will leak it out again. If you don't it will find a level where it is able to cope, hopefully at or above the 'minimum' mark.
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If you are only doing a few use threaded bar/long bolt and three/one nuts.
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Hi S, Unfortunately it is a case of TADS. I found that lowering the level as much as possible helped then a wipe round after every spirited run. Just something you learn to live with. A 'race' cap for track and competition use may suit you, you would normally check fluids before every run so little value in the low level light in those situations.
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Yes, a wash then dry then oil. Those were the days. Don't new ones come pre oiled? I would check with the supplier as over oiling is not good.
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Just a thought, why not use the time to clean all the oil from the engine, gear box and diff now. You will then be able to see exactly where the leaks are. After every run you then only need to mop up the hopefully small amounts of seepage. It also unlikely that the silicone will effectively adhere to an oily surface. Although the oil may be unsightly it is protecting the steel and ally very effectively so there are some plus points to your predicament.
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It is just the same as bleeding the brakes. If you can not get a spanner on the nipple to loosen then use a socket on an extension to 'crack' it. Then a spanner for the open/close process. If still in trouble feed the tube down the centre of the socket and use the socket with your fingers to open/close during bleeding then tighten with the extension when done.
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Why use inferior safety equipment when you have the choice. Having had a big accident I must almost insist that you do not use the inertia belts. You would be better fitting the the lap belts to make the harnesses six point fitting. It is my belief that they are the reason we survived relatively unscathed. End of sermon..
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Just for elimination purposes check ALL the earth connections are good. Take them off and clean up the surfaces. It's a long shot but you never know.
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Test 1
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'Car for Daughter' sounds good to me but the wife says no!
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Hi RJ, So for a set pressure on the brake pedal you can lock the front brakes but not the rears, can you then reduce the pad size on the rear and so get more clamping force and eventually get enough to lock that axle? I am ignoring heat and assuming pad performance is linear. I am full of logic but little knowledge but always willing to learn. M.
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A bit old school and thinking outside the box, if you get a pad that is too aggressive and slowly reduce the pad area till you get the balance you require. This was used on the old minis, admittedly it was the brake lining that was removed but may be a similar principal could be used to solve your problem.
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Sounds like the A frame bush is passed it's best. Put your fingers firmly on the bush and get an assistant to push/rock the car as violently as they can from side to side and check for movement. They are prone to oil contamination which results in the rubber becoming soft.
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David, I have sent you a private message. M.
