richy
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Everything posted by richy
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Hi richard. BM sent. Cheers, Richy
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Hi Richard, If the silhouette can be yellow, I'd have 1x standard, 1 x reverse, plus 2 Sigma inside. Cheers, Richy
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I'd give you £50 for the lot. Add postage, probably another £10? Richy
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Turning it over, in gear, on the starter motor might do the trick. Worked for me on a Land Rover. You'll need to be at the 'wheels on and off the axle stands' stage!
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Quoting Shad: Quoting Roger Ford: I'll beat that - £25.24 inc free delivery from Amazon Is there anything they don't sell?! 😬 Yep. You can get it here, though. here
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Disconnect one of the brake reservoir cap switch cables with the ignition on - the far left dashboard switch IIRC should light up, at the same time as the warning light inside the rev counter. Richy 2010 125 Sigma S3
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I had to use a small open ended spanner positioned vertically. Awkward isn't enough of a word for it! Good luck.
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Will you be polishing? Autoglym apparently do some of that stuff. 😶🌫️ Richy
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Sure that's not the girly version? Looks very tight in the waist. Have a BTTT on me 😬
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PDF?
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Quoting BBL: Quoting Ian B: I've also found out why I can smell fuel as the breather p!sses it all out in LH turns Had the same problem in 2004. Another Caterham TADTS Well TADTS... UYFFIY (Until You Fix It Yourself)! Are you going to let us know what the other 'F' stands for? 😬
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I leave my Optimate connected to the battery via a power socket, with an indoor cover on the car. The garage is well ventilated, mind you, with gaps under the doors! No problems (so far!!) Richy
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Graham, yhm again Richy
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Graham, YHM Richy
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Hope this helps, was an interesting trip down memory lane seeing how much I did without realising how much that to this day I did not know about what I was doing. Rambling? *confused*Must be late.....
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*arrowup*agreed with skeetsy. Drilling the ends of the crack, grinding it out and re-welding would be your best bet. Unless you're going to sell the car very shortly.
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*arrowup*AJC Try it again...... I bet its rattling just a bit or drips a drop of oil.... Nope, still working. No leaks. How lucky am I?
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I discovered today that my gearbox is still working, having done at least 3000 miles. Was I relieved? 😬
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Had similar troubles myself. First rad lasted 18 months. 2nd rad lasted a couple of weeks. Fingers crossed for my present one. CC are pretty good with this - give them a call. Get them to forward you a new rad. The reason I was given was that it was a bad batch, but to be honest that batch must have been a lot of radiators! Richy
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I generally turn the ignition back on after the engine has stopped so that the fan can run again until the temperature drops and it cuts out. I know it's a bit theoretical, but if the water pump isn't running you're not really cooling the water that's circulating through the engine (and thus cooling the engine), just the bit in the radiator. Natural circulation not withstanding (that's my get-out clause 😬). I'm a firm believer in allowing an engine to cool down while it's still running (lube oil supply and cooling water still circulating) before switching off. Prevents hot spots causing scale in the cooling water system and carbonisation of the residual lube oil on the running surfaces. Richy
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You could always wait for the fan to stop running before switching off the ignition. Use the extra time to get out of the harness, find wallet, wait for passenger to get out of the car, etc etc
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If you have a multimeter, disconnect the battery and connect it in series (do not try to start the car!). You should be able to measure the current draw from the immobiliser. There have been other recent threads on this issue. richy
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ShaunE: My Leather seats barely go far enough forward for me to reach the pedals (on furthest setting back) Try the seats at furthest setting back? 😬
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*arrowup*Oh dear, Anthony. Another fault to add to the list 😬
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Quoting anthonym: anyone know what happened next? i.e. what was the problem? And again? You're stalking!
