Phil B

Fronts are £114 each from CC, or £91 each from Canley classics. These use the standard early type taper roller bearings. There are other suppliers I am sure. For the rear end there are a few Sierra alloy bearing carriers available that the off road buggy builders use. The locost builders seem to use these too. phil

Billet alloy hubs anodised, no rust, save weight, seemples.

Hello Peter, Nice record of the build. What was the covering material you used to protect the bodywork? Phil

Thanks everyone for the advice, sketches and link to recent AG, mine dates from 1995 and my car is 10 years older than that. Sorry for not posting a reply sooner, been in the garage fitting new bushes and bearing (carefully) to the newly powder coated suspension links. I think I'll go with the 2-2-2 setting to start with and once I have done a few shake down miles I will go to PGM for a check and set-up. They can verify and side to side differences and advise on whether I would be better off with more or less castor, bearing in mind my car is live axle and mostly for road. Phil

Hi folks, Doing a complete rebuild (chassis collected from Bruce and now with TSK) and will be fitting widetrack, using parts from various BC adverts, so I don't have the instructions that come with the CC kit. I've tried various search combinations, but can't find what I'm sure I've seen in the past, which is a thread on fitting widetrack. What I'm looking for is a copy of the instructions, in particular what combination of washers to put between lower wishbone bushes and chassis to set the castor angle. I have a build manual which states 2/2 for standard track. Is this the same for wide, or should I add another behind the front bushes (3/1) to give a little more castor? Phil

Eugene, You are absolutely right. Kevin, Apologies for misleading info, the A frame bush is Y16 or 88G274 (MG pt no). This has a crush tube centre rather than tophat sleeves. Still can corrode onto the bolt. Y9 (8G621 MG pt no) is for the front suspension lower wishbone front mount, if you have trunnion type uprights. Phil

Kevin, If you are getting a clonk as you go on/off throttle it is most likely the A frame axle bush that's the cause. If you want to go Poly bush, then the equivalent MG part is 8G621 I beleive. These are a lot cheaper if bought from an MG classic parts dealer than off E-bay Polybush stores. I think I paid less than a fiver for mine in the summer. Phil

Hello Kev, Y9 is the bush part number. This is also the same bush as used on MG midget front suspension. I don't want to frighten you off this doing this job as it can be really easy, but getting the bolt out can be a pain some times, as the steel top hat sleeve within the bushes can corrode onto the bolt. Plenty of penetrating oil before hand is worthwhile. Try to avoid hitting the bolt too hard to get it out as if the bolt has corroded to the bush sleeve it can cause the lugs welded to the diff case to spread. The trick I use in this case is to use a 6" G clamp with a socket over the bolt head. This applies the force to the bolt and through the sleeve while supporting the lug on the diff. Wind the G clamp up and if it doesn't start to move you can hit the end of the clamp to give it an extra shock. Worst case scenario is to hacksaw through the bolt so that the link can drop down. Phil

Hi, Try looking at this link, quite a well written article and with a couple of useful tools to compare tyre/rim width compatibility ranges. http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg4.html Phil

Curses, I've been looking for precisely this for 6 months or more, even placed a couple of Wanteds. Finally bought the bits new last month! Phil

Hello Stu, I have an exploded diagram of the Titan rack as used on the Elise, which looks very similar to the Caterham unit from when i had mine apart a couple of years ago. There are 2 ball bearing races which locate the pinion and carry the thrust load from the rack into the pinion. On my rack one of these races was shagged allowing the pinion to move in and out slightly. The diagram also shows 2 linear bushes, one at either end of the rack bar. On earlier racks (according to Titan) the rackbar ran straight in the alloy housing and on very early racks there were phosphor bronze bushes. I can email you a copy of the rack diagram if that would help, it will give you part numbers for checking on spares. The pinion bearings are standard item available from a bearing stockist. Phil B

Hi Elie, Thanks for the reply. I am only looking for the stub axles, I have new uprights as I am converting from trunnions to spherical bearings. So I was hoping that somebody who had simply upgraded to the bigger hub bearings may have their old stub axles on the shelf to save me having to press out my stub axles. regards Phil

BTT

Hello, I'm looking for 2 standard hub stub axles, if anybody has some lying around after converting to the larger bearing design. Many thanks, Phil B West Sussex

Clive, The trumpets in Guy's photos are the same style as I used, supplied by Eurocarb. You need the slimmer profile of these trumpets to fit within the K&N style filters. Phil

Clive, Re the inlet manifold, I converted from carbs to Jenvey using the Omex kit with their standard length manifold. I found that their ram pipes had too wide a bellmouth to allow the dcoe filters to fit, so I bought 40mm Dellorto style trumpets as they are bolt on and have a more parallel section. For the filter I bought a sausage style unit from RamAir. I gave them them the dimensions of the bonnet opening and they supplied a filter which fits it perfectly. I bought a blank backplate from them too and cut it to fit. Zetec, I think you will find that there is no benefit from changing cams so long as you stick with 40s. the max choke size from memory is 34mm and this will limit top end power to 160-165bhp. The standard cams are good for this. I had 45s with 40mm choke and jetting from webers own calibration. With RL200 cams I was supposed to have 167bhp. Changing to injection with the same cams the Daves set me up with 185bhp. Phil

Chris, You have mail ref the diff, Thanks Phil

for MEMfast, helped me out a couple of years back when I wanted to fix 2 of M8 steel rivnuts, they loaned me the insertion tool so all I paid for was the rivnuts and postage. Phil B

Hi, Could be interested in the STACK oil pressure and fuel level gauges. Do you still have the instructions on how to set the calibration of fuel level gauge? Also, I presume the gauges are illuminated, but could you confirm this thanks. Phil B

BTT

BTT

BOING Still looking for a pair of spherical bearing type uprights, but I'll take 1 if available need to keep the cost of Upgraditis in check. thanks, Phil B

Hello, As subject header, I'm looking for a RED (5/8") widetrack arb, if anyone has upgraded to adjustable and has the old item gathering dust. Edited to add top wishbones. Phil B Edited by - phil b on 15 Nov 2012 15:36:14

Hi Phil, Thanks for the suggestion. I would not be keen to do this as the later uprights have a solid post which fits into the sperical bearing, whereas the trunnion type has a hole through the centre of the post to be able to oil the trunnion. Machining down would result in a weaker section right where the shock/spring loads go into the upright. Phil

Hi, You could also try KN Wheels in Telford, when I spoke to them about refurbing costs, they were saying £30 + vat. As they made the wheels in the first place, I'd be tempted to ask them about options. Phil