Phil B

I converted about 3 years ago using the Jenvey/omex 600 kit from Omex, check out their leaflet here; http://omextechnology.co.uk/Omex%20Zetec%20Focus%20TB%20Kit%20v3_0.pdf Very helpful team. If you have the Raceline modified head you will probably need the higher flow injectors to get the best out of the engine. Do you have the ARP con-rod bolts? If not keep the rev limiter to 7000. phil

I drilled my stainless steel headlamp bowls with a stepped cone drill. They are much harder than the chrome on brass bowls and you definitely need a block of wood behind to support the bowl. I drilled from the inside out for the initial pilot hole (if you see what I mean) that way there was less chance of the drill skidding and scratching the shiny outside. Its easier with 7" bowls. If you have stainless bowls don't try to drill through too quickly the drill will overheat and lose its sharp edge. I've used Q max punches for large holes in alloy panels, I wouldn't use one for anything as "cosmetic" as a headlamp bowl as the edges do get slightly distorted. Just think about the way the punch works. Phil B

Hi, I bought one of their filters with a plain backplate to fit on my Jenvey TBs when I replaced the Webers (Zetec install). Chose them over Pipercorss etc as they could produce a filter of the correct size to fit within the bonnet cutout where my old K&Ns sat. Really helpful guys, prompt service, knew exactly what i needed, happy to recommend them to others. Phil B

Craig, BM back and I can send you some pictures of my old disc baraked Ital axle, it had the JW conversion. I've replaced it with a Ford English axle. There's about 12 pics and around 50MB Phil

BTT, still looking thanks.

Hi Nick, TSK's prices must have gone up since you last had a wing painted, I paid £80 a side about 4 months ago. In fact it was touch and go whether it was cheaper to go for a new pair of wings from Dartford, but as the wings just needed paint I went with TSK. I'm not running stone guards (may change my mind) hence the Ventureshield wrap. Phil

I have tried Ritrama and KPMF both supplied by MDP supplies. Really great service and the product applies well. However, the challenge with the stoneguard is its thickness relative to regular colour change films, when applying over double curves ie the rear arches. It is 3 or 4 times thicker, up to 320 micron as opposed to 80-100 micron. After several attempts, warm, wet, stretched, trimmed; I still had some wrinkles where the film wrapped under the edge of the rear arches. On the plus side I successfully used these films for the lower edge of the sideskins and in various other paint scuff areas where it is either flat or single curve. I took my car to a local firm (Race by Design near gatwick airport). They did a supply and fit using 3M ventureshield for the rear arches, £50 a side. The film goes right up to where the sidescreen ends. Even they had a problem with a couple of areas of wrinkling, but removed and replaced using an updated template free of charge. Guy is the main man and pleased to recommend them.

Hi Craig, I had the same situation as Guy, but I bought new shims (6 I think, as you can swap them around) from my local Ford dealer. As I grew up rebuilding Hillman Imp engines, swapping shims around to get the valve clearances right is no big deal. All you have to remember is to make sure that the crank is rotated away from TDC as you check each valve clearance to avoid any problems. Then when you are all ready to time up, set the cams to their TDC position and carefully rotate the crank back to TDC. I have the cam setting tool and TDC pin for the Blacktop if you want to borrow them (I'm in Horsham) Phil

Craig, Which cams are you going to fit? I've got the Racekine 200s which you can time up using the standard Ford setting tool. The only fun and games is measuring clearances and selecting new shims, or are you running a silvertop? Phil B

Zetec, Why 7" wide? What size tyres are you using? Phil B

Hi Bob, Usual range of 1/2, 9/16 and 3/4 AF should cover the arb mounts, wishbone bolts and nuts for mudguard mounts. You'll need both sockets and ring/open spanners. Lower shock allen bolt is 7/32 AF, you may get away with 5.5mm but don't try to use a 5mm it'll round out!! Your car have the is probably in the transition period with the 1/2 wishbone and bracket bolted onto the back of the ARB mountings, which gives you a couple of extra bolts. You can convert to the full top wishbone and still use the bolted bracket. Track rod end nuts may be 5/8, but if these have been replaced they are more likely to be metric 14-15mm? To release the top wishbone rod end, SM25T has a great trick which I'll let him explain ( I think he has some pictures too ). A bottle of whiskey is also very helpful, you resort to it when the bolts don't loosen off or the nuts round their corners. Hope this helps. Phil B

BTT, still looking for some.

Elie, LHD mini turned upside down as the track arms are behind the wheel centres. If your car is LHD you may need a RHD mini rack, if you see what I mean. I have a Caterham rack on my '85 car as it had been fitted by a previous owner. If you want it to look more "period" strip the paint off the caterham rack body, it'll soon take on a period patina! phil B

Ian, I looked at something similar as a starting point when I rewired my 1985 car last winter, also have Omex 600 for my Zetec. But I was told that the race cars only have a very limited number of switches (ignition, rain light and wipers?) and minimal gauges too (tacho, oil press and water temp), so I ordered a full loom through James Whiting. James has a source for older cars which suited my needs. Phil

Hello Graham, Thanks for the reply and offer, can I pass at the moment as I am really looking for the tall symmetrical style to match symmetrical wings. regards, Phil

As title, looking for a pair of stainless stoneguards for rear arches. I have the symmetrical rear wings, so prefer the later tall symmetrical guards, as fitted to 2010 onward cars. Anyone upgraded to carbon and have an old pair gathering dust? Phil B (sussex)

4 external single skin walls and a flat roof last winter for my rebuild. I used a small electric fan heater to help warm up, but an old pair of salopettes and fleece jumper under the boiler suit worked. Don't forget thermal socks , keeping the toes toasty makes a huge difference. You could consider one of these; http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Heating_Index/Quartz_Heaters/index.html#Quartz_Heaters_DXCXD Its the sort of thing used to keep our smoker firends warm when standing outside pubs! Final option, bring the bits into the kitchen when SWMBO is out! Phil B Phil

Hi Oliver, I presume you're referring to the Mallock U2 clubman cars. The one's I'm familiar with from the clubman race class were fitted with Ford English axles.

Hello Jenkss, I could be interested in the hood sticks, depending on where you are, as posting will be awkward and likely to risk damage. regards, Phil

This is a common problem when tyres run at the lower pressures we use on light cars. In my early motorsport days doing car trials, where pressures as low as 12-15psi were normal, we used to drill the steel rim in several places on inner and outer edges and screw self-tappers into the tyre bead! Crude but effective. Phil B

Hi, After my rebuild I acquired an irritating tunnel noise, squeaky sound a bit like a dry hose rubbing. As yours only really noticable when moving, not engine revs dependant or indeed road speed particularly. Tracked it down to the alloy tunnel cover "fretting" on the tunnel itself. As I have all new panels I spotted 2 or 3 places where there were dark rub marks on the alloy. I have applied duct tape around the edges/contact faces of the tunnel cover and the noise has gone. Hope this helps. Phil

Adam, I made 2 cushions for my daughter so she could drive at Dunsfold. I had a chat with IT guys at work and got some 2 and 3" thick high density foam from a computer shipping box. A serrated bread knife is a great tool to cut the foam with and as its for SWMBO, she can't say no really Phil

Not having a K (Zetec in an old crossflow car ), I haven't experienced the dreaded click. But wasn't there an article in Low Flying this month or last which described a means to address this problem?

Craig, Just had a thought, RandR Alloys, Sharnbrook, Bedford. I used them for a set of custom wheel spacer/pcd adapters that I used on my English axle so I could still use my Ital pcd wheels (2 sets). I don't know what their wheels are like, but they list a 7x13 minilite style at 0ET which would probably be ok at the rear. The guys were helpful enough for the custom machining work. Phil B

Bushes have steel outer sleeve so washing up liquid will make no difference whatsoever. I got a colleague to turn me up some bits, a deep cup and stepped washer and used an m12 length of studding to pull out the old and push in the new. Basically a custom version of the socket and washers. It wasn't easy and I needed liberal quantities of copaslip on the bearing surfaces under the nuts. Why not give Bruce at Arch a call and ask him how much to blast, coat and fit new bushes? They'll come back looking like new and no risk of diy tooling slipping and damaging your new finsh. Phil B